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Tamiya F104 Pro!

Old 04-19-2011, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
What do you mean? That the camber is different to the same setting with the plastic piece, or that you are not getting different cambers at different settings? I have the aluminum part and it does add and remove camber.
i meant that i wasn't seeing a camber change going from point-to-point on the aluminum piece

i honestly expected to see the screws lean one way or the other, but they appear to be standing verticle no matter what position i have them in
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
i meant that i wasn't seeing a camber change going from point-to-point on the aluminum piece

i honestly expected to see the screws lean one way or the other, but they appear to be standing verticle no matter what position i have them in
They are closer together at 1 setting. This pulls the suspension in thus creating the camber at the wheel. No need to angle the screw holes.
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
They are closer together at 1 setting. This pulls the suspension in thus creating the camber at the wheel. No need to angle the screw holes.
i get that but the 1* and the oppose side (which is maybe 2.5* or 2*) and there doesn't seem to be a difference...and looking at the screw holes, they look pretty much straight thru
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
i get that but the 1* and the oppose side (which is maybe 2.5* or 2*) and there doesn't seem to be a difference...and looking at the screw holes, they look pretty much straight thru
Put an RPM gauge on there, and check it out. There should be a difference. I know I can see it just straight eyeballing it.
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:41 PM
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my f104 i have spare parts for im just running a sports tuned motor, how ever i am keen to carry some spares and tuning parts, i will mainly be running out doors on tarmac waht spares are good to carry differant tuning springs t-bars or is the kit set pretty good?
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:46 PM
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i would have to agree that the pics of the F1 on the previous page are very impressive

i twill be interesting when i start racing again it must be at least 3 years ago i decided to stop and have a break from electic racing
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:03 PM
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Love the pics and the car.

Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post

Carbon Fibre Look (painted of course)

Carbon Fibre Look

Carbon steering wheel
Niiice! How did you paint the CF. I've never seen a painted CF pattern this small.

Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
Opened up airbox
I open-up the airbox too!...

Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
LW body lightened on the glued overlapping
...which means that I also paint the inside black.

Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
Did I mention I hate blue
Agreed! Hate the blue, purple, orange, red, pink, etc.

R/C Cars look best when they only have black/rubber/foam, white/delrin, natural steel/stainless/CrMo/aluminum/ titanium/magnesium color, TiN and gunmetal/hard anodized parts.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:17 PM
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I seem to remember a carbon painting technique that involved layering paints through a fine mesh screen... But as I did not paint this car, I can hardly say anything.

And that is exactly what I thought when I saw the car. The level of detail on the car was almost on par with scale-model realism, and I loved the rear wing decal too! I would be very lucky to build a car a fraction as good-looking as that!

Last edited by Grastens; 04-19-2011 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Marklar View Post
Love the pics and the car.



Niiice! How did you paint the CF. I've never seen a painted CF pattern this small.



I open-up the airbox too!...



...which means that I also paint the inside black.



Agreed! Hate the blue, purple, orange, red, pink, etc.

R/C Cars look best when they only have black/rubber/foam, white/delrin, natural steel/stainless/CrMo/aluminum/ titanium/magnesium color, TiN and gunmetal/hard anodized parts.
2mm mesh but next time I'll go for 1mm.

All good body painters do a final black coat so the body isn't see trough and the opened up parts will look much better.

White delrin bearing adapters and suspension balls are dyed in black.
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:03 PM
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Some more details you didn't see:

That HPI helmet is 1gr heavier as the Tamiya 1 so I made it the same weight again.
I also left out the screw. Glued, sanded and removed the seam.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya F104 Pro!-img_2816-k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-img_2818k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-img_2820k.jpg  
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:05 PM
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1 gram? Seriously?


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Old 04-19-2011, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by squarehead View Post
1 gram? Seriously?


Makes perfect sense.
How else does one offset the extra weight of all the decals, and extra coat of paint

Nice looking car bud.
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by squarehead View Post
1 gram? Seriously?


I even changed the servo bearings to ceramics.
Polished the chassis (see the reflection of the drapes).
Sanded down the screws.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya F104 Pro!-p1060339k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-p1060368k.jpg  
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
I even changed the servo bearings to ceramics.
Polished the chassis (see the reflection of the drapes).
Sanded down the screws.
I love the attention to detail. I am going to have to take my time building my car when it gets here.

What is the total weight of the car?
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CR0SS View Post
I love the attention to detail. I am going to have to take my time building my car when it gets here.

What is the total weight of the car?
993gr. With 62mm type B (heavier then A's) tires
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