Bumpy

iTrader: (1)

I run Speed Power 5800 lipos in my EXO104 and the way I did mine was to shim the top plate up by 1mm thus allowing the lipo to slide under the front brace snugly.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

hey mike - in case I mis-read what you tped earlier, you can use the F104 tires on the F103...backs will fit fine, fronts will need different bearings...

in the event you meant F104 rubber on F103 rims, then see my other post

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

thanks, yes I did mean the entire rim/tire combo, but its good to know both situations anyway.

The Big Wig

Here's mine:


FF in the back


Underside of body bent inwards


Carbon Fibre Look (painted of course)


Carbon Fibre Look


HPI helmet, black belt bucle and straps


Carbon steering wheel


Opened up airbox


Gurney flap and some James Hunt humor here. Official F1 should all be 180mm! A 200mm class should fall under a classic cars only rule.


Opened up exhaust and motor temp sticker


Real (plexi)glas mirrors


I hate the original blue color and the black edition wasn't out yet so it's anodized black (that's why you don't see the camber #s)


LW body lightened on the glued overlapping


Front underside left clear. lightweight aluminium and magnesium screws here


Heat sink with very small fins for bigger cooling surface and low CG


Alu M2 screws


What you don't see are the ceramic bearings inside the servo


MRT PTX transponder


2 Bad the + batterywire isn't black and I forgot to use a black spring


Did I mention I hate blue


Inboard antenna


Low profile wheel nut, 850 bearing adapter and abec7 ceramics


Shaved down motor wires


Beveled chassis


Shaved down screws


Sanded and polished chassis

kb525

Very impressive!

On a side note im thinking of getting the mclaren MP4/5 F104W. Anyone got pics of this?

The Big Wig

That's a very nice car (Big Senna fan). It is however a wide car. This handels better (duh) but is not really a car your can compete fairly with modern looking F1's. Going parking lot, just for fun or want to run a classic F1. Go for it. Want to do real competition go for the McLaren MP4-24.

kmichael

iTrader: (4)

Very nice,a true F1 fan glad it's not red

The Big Wig

Tru that. The first Ferrari was yellow

kb525

Yea itll be a just for fun car. Im getting tired of taking my nitro apart every time I want to go from drift to grip and the extra things to watch out for on a nitro.
Im thinking of runing it 3 cell lipo for fun, I have a ESC thats older than I am lying around for a dragster my dad had runing 12cell nimh back in the day.

The Big Wig

With real cars 2/3 of the downforce comes from the underside of the chassis. Small model cars it is 100% from above. Model F1 cars have the smallest wings and least downforce of them all. Altough a 90s F1 has bigger wings then modern F1s it is still far to little to go for speed records. 3 cells will be overkill. RC F1 is all about agility and driving on the tip of your toes while having great looking cars.

orci77

@The Big Wig:
Very nice car. AND also a very nice photo series!

kb525

Like i said its a lot basher. The esc has control over how much full throtle range is so I can dial it down. Im mostly thinking that route since I have a bunch of these small 3 cell lipos from airplanes that almost never fly due to wind.

JoeD.

iTrader: (2)

Love the photo series, a lot of detail in a relatively small car for sure!!
Most of us racers, well speaking for myself, dont spend a lot of time or energy into that much detail just to keep the amount of wincing on the driver stand to a minimum. I must say though after a full race day and a bunch of practicing the body on my f104frp is holding up very well and I got it used in a trade from here.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

here's a (possibly) dumb question....

has any been able to notice a camber different when running the aluminum piece that tamiya makes?? i'm asking because the screw goes straight up no matter that setting you choose - and after seeing the part 3racing makes, it kinda made me go 'hmmmm'

robk

iTrader: (22)

What do you mean? That the camber is different to the same setting with the plastic piece, or that you are not getting different cambers at different settings? I have the aluminum part and it does add and remove camber.