G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Can you just give me the link to see wath's your battery, because I hesitate between two models of this Orion 3800?

I'm not really sure to understand what you say when you write: "...and the front piece has clearance for them, cant confirm the 5000 though", can you help me?


I'm waiting for your tests with both upper deck when you drive on asphalt with rubber tyres so

Thanks,
G-rem

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

The battery is the 3800 30c carbon pack, im not even sure it's still in production , as I have had it going on 3 years.
As far as the upper deck, it comes in 2 pieces, the front piece mounts up by the servo so you can still use the stock battery hold down

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

do you think that a 8.5T brushless motor is well adaptated for the F104? Or a 10.5T is enough? It's to run on rubber tyres and asphalt with zero timing esc.

Do you think that the serarate upper deck is a good thing to have more grip with this configuration (asphalt + rubber)?

Thanks for answers,
Bye,
G-rem

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

From what i have seen is the 21.5 brushless with zero time a bit faster then a silvercan motor.
The 17.5 is a lot faster,this also without timing.
Imagine what a 8.5 will do to your F104.
If you never driven a Tamiya F1 and this is your first 2wd then start off with max 17.5 in it.
Everything else is way to fast.

regards Roy

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for your answer Roy.

You're right, I've never run with a Tamiya F1, this is my first 2wd, but I've a good experience with TCs (before I ran with a Tamiya TRF416). I know that this cars are just the opposite, but I'm looking for something that goes quick (not too much too) and enough powerful. Sometimes I'll run with TCs and I wanna fight with them for the victory, you know.

I know that this cars are generally slighter than TC's,... so you don't need an equally motor to have the same performance.

I saw the Formula 1 brushed motor designed by LRP (165W and 4320 kv) but I've never seen a brushless motor with the same characteristics (they are too much powerful and have less kv), so I hesitate...

So, what do I have to do according to you, guys?

Thanks,
G-rem

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Well i did race the F103 F1 cars in the past with the blue actopower motor from Tamiya(this one is brushed 17 tripple)
The motor was fast but didn't have a lot of power so you could drive it nicely.
I am going to start with the F103 again this year but we have to run it with the Carson Cup machine motor that is i think a 21 turns silvercan type motor.
You can compare this with a motor between the 21.5 and 17.5 brushless motors.
You say you drive TC's?
As you can see i am doing this also in the 13.5 class boosted with speeds up to 80KM/H.
You can't compare a F1 at all with a TC as a TC is much more controlable then a F1.
The F1 wants to oversteer a lot when applying the power (even a little power)as for a TC that has 4wd you can put the power down a lot faster when comming out of a corner.
I would say start with the stock motor supplied in the box(if you have a brushed ESC) and when you can controle the car enough and want a faster brushless setup,start with the 17.5.
It will be fast but you can control the power of the 17.5.
Also the brushless motors have more torque form the word get go and a brushed motor gets it power(depends on motor as well) higher up the rpm range.
Hope this helps you a bit.
I am no motor wizard and perhaps some one else has even better thought, but this is what i would do.

regards Roy

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Thank you so much Roy,

everything is clear in my mind now, I'll folow your advices and try it in the first time with the silvercan brushed motor and I'll surely change it thereafter by a brushless 17.5T motor.

Thanks and bye bye,
G-rem

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Perhaps a silly thought from me to you but why don't you try running in the Tamiya cup in belgium??
You get a lot of feedback on the car abd tips for setups and you have fun driving it against others.
I do it in Holland this year and maybe you in Belgium?
Perhaps we meet at the finals at Rucphen?

regards Roy

iknowjoe

iTrader: (40)

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KEYWORDS: F1, FORMULA 1, OPEN WHEELED, F60, F103, F104, F109, TAMIYA, 3RACING, EXOTEK, FUTABA, TEKIN, HPI, MACLAREN, FERRARI, Schumacher, BMW WILLIAMS, RENAULT

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

hey joe - you got an email and $$

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Any one know where i can get the decals for the Benetton B194??
I want to make a rep of Jos Verstappen's Benetton in 1:10 RC.

regards Roy

LordAnubis

iTrader: (19)

F1 racing is a different kettle of fish to any form of 4wd driving. It is very heavily dependent on throttle control, and steering control. A good radio like a DX3R that you can set exponentials with are a very big advantage. Honestly the radio is the biggest tuning advantage on an F1.

Some tips to setting up your car;
-I won't actually give any setups, because i'm guessing all track are different, but all i'll say is start with KIT!!! I can't stress that enough. I run a 17.5 turn with a Tekin RS Pro (with boost), i use a 3300 nimh stick pack, soft t-bar, and run the standard tamiya medium tyres and rims. They work the best for out local track. Softs don't work on my car, and neither does a lipo battery. The added weight of the NIMH really helps my car. I race against F103s, F109s and F10s, with after market tyres (shimizus, rides etc), mostly with 13turn motors, and i'm very competetive against them. I certainly have a lot more speed through the corners than any of the other cars.

-Have a low gear ratio (very low 3) that will help by not making it accelerate off the mark so much. That gear ratio is for a 17.5 turn motor.

-With your radio, setup your end points to go to the max possible, and then wind back your steering rate to 75%, that will be PLENTY of steering for your car, also set the exponential to about 30%, you want the middle section of the steering movement to have very little steering repsonse.

-Loose diff. Set the diff very loose... loosen till it slips on take off on your track, then tighten just a smidgen. Seriously, very loose diff.

-DON'T USE BRAKES!!!! 2wd driving is all about rolling speed, you do not under any circumstances want to brake hard coming into a corner and then accelerate, liek you would in a TC. Dissable all brakes, just rolls through corners, this will teach you how to follow the race line, and will give you the rolling speed through the corners. This being said though, after you get more comfortable with the car, you can start using brakes sparingly, i sometimes use brakes now days that i'm getting more comfortable with the car, but its a rare occasion that i do.

F1 is certainly a very enjoyable class, but it requires a lot of restraint and patience. Setup is not as crucial, its more the drivers ability to take it easy and jsut keep the car on the track. The best example is the last race i did. Myself and the guy coming second never hit full throttle once, and yet we were doing faster laps than we have ever done on our local track. There is a LOT to be said for going slow and taking a good racing line.

tcb22185

iTrader: (58)

The raido is 100% to a good handeling f1 car. im using a 3pk and u can go in and set up a throtal curve. mine has a very low take off. i also run a 3.0 fdr with a non boosted 21.5 but are track did not have many hair pins in it. does now so ill be changing that. i do use tamiya soft it all depends on the track on what u can get away with.. but raido is the first big thing

tcb22185

iTrader: (58)

What are you guys using for rear axle shim's??

Oortael

I can confirm that. Good driving skills and therefore a good radio is everything. I've done very well since I switched from my old Graupner to a brand new spektrum dx3s.

For the rear axle shims I use what comes with the kit.