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Tamiya F104 Pro!

Old 12-25-2010, 10:39 PM
  #4126  
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http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...l-p-31153.html

Tamiya makes one too.
What this does is once you set it stays untouched under the cover.
And Doesnt change after every tire change.

it moves the diff adjuster behind the wheel.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:13 AM
  #4127  
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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow View Post
i put mine in like the instructions state () and after minor adjustment and a quick maiden voyage i pulled the diff apart for inspection and noticed the washers are now (].one of them has gone flat. i was sure not to uber tighten the thing. is there a replacement part for these?
Yes they make them but I forgot the part number, but i'm sure someone here will chime in with it. I replace those often or at least with every rebuild. Kinda like a clutch shoe
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:28 AM
  #4128  
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Tamiya Part # 841174 5mm Disk Spring (5 Pcs.)

Or that's the little baggie I have in front of me I've been using
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:59 AM
  #4129  
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Regarding the thrust washers,
I have the F104W Wolf and the manual states they should be positioned )(, is it a typo in the manual?
My friend has the F104 Pro and its clearly ().

If () is correct, this may explain why my F104W handles badly...then again it could be my driving

Any advice?
Thanks.
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:34 AM
  #4130  
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Originally Posted by BangkokBulldog View Post
Regarding the thrust washers,
I have the F104W Wolf and the manual states they should be positioned )(, is it a typo in the manual?
My friend has the F104 Pro and its clearly ().

If () is correct, this may explain why my F104W handles badly...then again it could be my driving

Any advice?
Thanks.
I typically run them () with no issues
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:15 AM
  #4131  
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
I typically run them () with no issues
Same here and I've never replaced them.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:21 AM
  #4132  
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Maybe it's time
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BangkokBulldog View Post
Regarding the thrust washers,
I have the F104W Wolf and the manual states they should be positioned )(, is it a typo in the manual?
My friend has the F104 Pro and its clearly ().

If () is correct, this may explain why my F104W handles badly...then again it could be my driving

Any advice?
Thanks.

i checked my 104Pro manual and it does show its ()... it could be a possible error in the manual, or it could be there is a difference in the washer orientation because the 104Pro uses the hop-up alloy diff assembly while the 104W and stock 104 uses the old plastic diff assembly similar to the old 103.

try to swap the washer positions then run it again... might work.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:31 AM
  #4134  
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I bet your manual has a typo. The correct way to run these are () but I could be wrong
The alloy diff assembly has nothing to do with the orientation of the thrust washers. I could be wrong again.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommi Makkinen View Post
i checked my 104Pro manual and it does show its ()... it could be a possible error in the manual, or it could be there is a difference in the washer orientation because the 104Pro uses the hop-up alloy diff assembly while the 104W and stock 104 uses the old plastic diff assembly similar to the old 103.

try to swap the washer positions then run it again... might work.
This^^^ The 104 pro diff and the plastic diff ARE different.

Also, use 600 sandpaper to sand your diff rings. Dave Irrgang from IRS says on his site your not trying to polish the ring, your trying to make grip...

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ANSWERED BY DAVE "THE DIFF DUDE" IRRGANG
1. Why do you sand your diff rings instead of polishing them?
R/C differentials are a friction style differential. The diff balls (we suggest our grade 25 diff balls P/N IRS204) need to grip the diff ring to work efficiently. If you polish the diff rings, the diff will slip and therefore be less efficient. Roughen the diff rings with sandpaper to create more grip for the diff balls. By using this method you should not have to over tighten the diff nut to stop the spur gear from slipping, this is when most diffs are damaged.
I suggest you try this experiment if you don't believe me. Build a diff polishing the diff rings and feel how it works. Then build a diff using the method described in question #2, You'll feel a definite difference. As an added bonus, when the rings start to wear, resand and reuse.. You'll get more races out of the same rings and they get better each time you sand them! This trick will work on all ball differentials.
2. How do you sand your diff rings?
I place a sheet of 600 grit wet/dry sand paper ( for 1/8" balls) or 800 grit wet/dry sand paper (for 3/32" balls) on a flat surface. Place the rings on the sand paper and using your fingers or our Diff Sanding Tool P/N IRS509 and sand the shine off the rings. I do both sides but you only have to do the side facing the diff balls. I make sure they're clean and free of any debris and making sure no excess diff lube gets on them when I put my diff together. (Use only a small amount of diff lube on each diff ball)
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
Maybe it's time
Can't see how they can become damaged (spring washers ()...) or distorted unless someone is using ft/lb to torque them.
I use the F103 type hubs on both my F1s and never have issues and they both have mega hours of run time on them.

As far as diffs go, again I repeat my belief:

"If it slips, it dies".
It aint a slipper clutch but you want it as loose as you can get it WITHOUT SLIPPING for loose track conditions.

Lock that sucker up for your carpet and see how you like that tho.
Can you say corner speed?
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:29 AM
  #4137  
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If I can run a spool on carpet I would. Some of the guys I race with ask me why is my diff is so tight
I think the cats out of the bag now

I too run a 103 my 104 sits on the shelf.
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:16 PM
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New Shimizu F103 tires are in stock.

Also, more compounds for Shimizu F104 tires are in stock.



Click Here to check out.
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Old 12-26-2010, 02:24 PM
  #4139  
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The Diff's are a different design (like robk said)....

One version runs a captured thrust bearing where I suspect the manual states the cone washers are positioned like this )(

Whereas in the Pro Black edition there is no thrust bearing but a normal ball bearing where it states to position the cone washers like this ()


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Old 12-26-2010, 02:30 PM
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Yes they are different. The103 runs a thrust bearing in the wheel the 104 does not. The 103 diff is adjusted from the axle the 104 has a seperate adjuster nut in the axle. Either way the washers should go like () for the tenth timebut I could be wrong
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