Tamiya F104 Pro!
#3856

I have the Exotek with the 103 front end, the 104, the 103 in a couple configurations, the 3Racing 109, and HPi Super F1. I wanted to go to Cleveland (didn't make it due to $$), but I tested all those cars back to back on carpet over several weekends.
With the exception of the HPI, I used the same tires. To make a long story short, the 103 was the fastest car until I got the Exotek with 103 parts together. To be honest, I never bothered with an Exotek/104 front end and tires because the stock 104 has never even been close to a 103. Like .5 sec a lap slower, foam tire to foam tire, even with no center screw on the 104 tbar.
The Exotek with 103 parts was on pace of the F103 which I have been dialing in for 2 years on the first battery pack. Granted, I used this knowledge for the initial setup of the Exotek, but I felt the Exotek was better overall. It was also easier to drive. The wheelbase may actually be a bit of help on carpet, as the car is very smooth but still steers. Until the car starts chattering or losing traction, harder side springs are going to make it turn harder. A CRC red spring made my car rotate very hard.
With the exception of the HPI, I used the same tires. To make a long story short, the 103 was the fastest car until I got the Exotek with 103 parts together. To be honest, I never bothered with an Exotek/104 front end and tires because the stock 104 has never even been close to a 103. Like .5 sec a lap slower, foam tire to foam tire, even with no center screw on the 104 tbar.
The Exotek with 103 parts was on pace of the F103 which I have been dialing in for 2 years on the first battery pack. Granted, I used this knowledge for the initial setup of the Exotek, but I felt the Exotek was better overall. It was also easier to drive. The wheelbase may actually be a bit of help on carpet, as the car is very smooth but still steers. Until the car starts chattering or losing traction, harder side springs are going to make it turn harder. A CRC red spring made my car rotate very hard.
Last edited by robk; 11-27-2010 at 02:12 PM.
#3857
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)

I have the Exotek with the 103 front end, the 104, the 103 in a couple configurations, the 3Racing 109, and HPi Super F1. I wanted to go to Cleveland (didn't make it due to $$), but I tested all those cars back to back on carpet over several weekends.
With the exception of the HPI, I used the same tires. To make a long story short, the 103 was the fastest car until I got the Exotek with 103 parts together. To be honest, I never bothered with and Exotek/104 front end and tires because the stock 104 has never even been close to a 103. Like .5 sec a lap slower, foam tire to foam tire, even with no center screw on the 104 tbar.
The Exotek with 103 parts was on pace of the F103 which I have been dialing in for 2 years on the first battery pack. Granted, I used this knowledge for the initial setup of the Exotek, but I felt the Exotek was better overall. It was also easier to drive. The wheelbase may actually be a bit of help on carpet, as the car is very smooth but still steers. Until the car starts chattering or losing traction, harder side springs are going to make it turn harder. A CRC red spring made my car rotate very hard.
With the exception of the HPI, I used the same tires. To make a long story short, the 103 was the fastest car until I got the Exotek with 103 parts together. To be honest, I never bothered with and Exotek/104 front end and tires because the stock 104 has never even been close to a 103. Like .5 sec a lap slower, foam tire to foam tire, even with no center screw on the 104 tbar.
The Exotek with 103 parts was on pace of the F103 which I have been dialing in for 2 years on the first battery pack. Granted, I used this knowledge for the initial setup of the Exotek, but I felt the Exotek was better overall. It was also easier to drive. The wheelbase may actually be a bit of help on carpet, as the car is very smooth but still steers. Until the car starts chattering or losing traction, harder side springs are going to make it turn harder. A CRC red spring made my car rotate very hard.
#3858
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)

2deg camber in front
silver front springs
0deg toe in front
stock center roll shock oil
kit recommended center shock, oil and spring setup
ride height front is 3.5
rear is 4.0
tires are made by square med 35 shore for front & tamiya options rear
tires are cut to 54mm front and 56mm rear
speedmerchant red side springs
rollout is 71 for a med size carpet track
for asphalt the setup was the same except i was running the spice f1 tires that were hard front and soft rear. these tires were pretty good and i didnt cut them because they cost so much. my wallet wouldnt let me cut them. i was also running the kit sidespring. i didnt try changing them to see if any would work any better.
#3861
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)

i'm reasonably happy with the car. I haven't been able to get much run time with it, but when I have i just can't seem to get that planted feel that I had with the F104 pro.
Into high speed corners I tend to lose the rear on entry. I've yet to run it after playing with the rear droop, so wait to see what effect it will have, but it feels a very 'twitchy' car is that makes sense. I run on a low traction track which can get quite dusty due to the offroad track beside the onroad. Straight line is stable, so I'm wondering if a bit of weight to the rear would also help.
I'm persisting with tamiya rubbers purely out of loyality to the scale looks, b ut I have ordered some Shimizu rubber tires to give those a try.
I need to have a fair amount of track time to simply get my head around what works and what doesn't. I do like the exotek conversion and I'm hopefully that I see similar results to others using it.
Into high speed corners I tend to lose the rear on entry. I've yet to run it after playing with the rear droop, so wait to see what effect it will have, but it feels a very 'twitchy' car is that makes sense. I run on a low traction track which can get quite dusty due to the offroad track beside the onroad. Straight line is stable, so I'm wondering if a bit of weight to the rear would also help.
I'm persisting with tamiya rubbers purely out of loyality to the scale looks, b ut I have ordered some Shimizu rubber tires to give those a try.
I need to have a fair amount of track time to simply get my head around what works and what doesn't. I do like the exotek conversion and I'm hopefully that I see similar results to others using it.
#3863

i'd like to see tamiya hosting an exhibition race where older f1 chassis competes in mini f1 endurance race
#3864

i'm reasonably happy with the car. I haven't been able to get much run time with it, but when I have i just can't seem to get that planted feel that I had with the F104 pro.
Into high speed corners I tend to lose the rear on entry. I've yet to run it after playing with the rear droop, so wait to see what effect it will have, but it feels a very 'twitchy' car is that makes sense. I run on a low traction track which can get quite dusty due to the offroad track beside the onroad. Straight line is stable, so I'm wondering if a bit of weight to the rear would also help.
I'm persisting with tamiya rubbers purely out of loyality to the scale looks, b ut I have ordered some Shimizu rubber tires to give those a try.
I need to have a fair amount of track time to simply get my head around what works and what doesn't. I do like the exotek conversion and I'm hopefully that I see similar results to others using it.
Into high speed corners I tend to lose the rear on entry. I've yet to run it after playing with the rear droop, so wait to see what effect it will have, but it feels a very 'twitchy' car is that makes sense. I run on a low traction track which can get quite dusty due to the offroad track beside the onroad. Straight line is stable, so I'm wondering if a bit of weight to the rear would also help.
I'm persisting with tamiya rubbers purely out of loyality to the scale looks, b ut I have ordered some Shimizu rubber tires to give those a try.
I need to have a fair amount of track time to simply get my head around what works and what doesn't. I do like the exotek conversion and I'm hopefully that I see similar results to others using it.

#3865
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)

i'm reasonably happy with the car. I haven't been able to get much run time with it, but when I have i just can't seem to get that planted feel that I had with the F104 pro.
Into high speed corners I tend to lose the rear on entry. I've yet to run it after playing with the rear droop, so wait to see what effect it will have, but it feels a very 'twitchy' car is that makes sense. I run on a low traction track which can get quite dusty due to the offroad track beside the onroad. Straight line is stable, so I'm wondering if a bit of weight to the rear would also help.
I'm persisting with tamiya rubbers purely out of loyality to the scale looks, b ut I have ordered some Shimizu rubber tires to give those a try.
I need to have a fair amount of track time to simply get my head around what works and what doesn't. I do like the exotek conversion and I'm hopefully that I see similar results to others using it.
Into high speed corners I tend to lose the rear on entry. I've yet to run it after playing with the rear droop, so wait to see what effect it will have, but it feels a very 'twitchy' car is that makes sense. I run on a low traction track which can get quite dusty due to the offroad track beside the onroad. Straight line is stable, so I'm wondering if a bit of weight to the rear would also help.
I'm persisting with tamiya rubbers purely out of loyality to the scale looks, b ut I have ordered some Shimizu rubber tires to give those a try.
I need to have a fair amount of track time to simply get my head around what works and what doesn't. I do like the exotek conversion and I'm hopefully that I see similar results to others using it.
#3866
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)

To strart, I apologize if this specific question has been asked, but my search did not show up the answer I'm looking for.
F1 at my local track is blowing up.
I have a F104 with Exotech upgrade, but I'm still at a clear disadvantage compared to the 103s and 109s wider stance.
We don't want to separate the classes by chassis, so we run together.
I'm looking to change my front end to the 103 and the rear to the wider 103 tires.
I have a healthy stock of tires and parts for the 104 and need to know what I can still utilize for the conversion and what I have no choice to buy.
I know I need the rear tires, no choice there.
I know I need the suspension arms and longer turnbuckles.
I know the steering knuckles are compatible.
I know the springs and c-clamps are compatible.
This is the real question.
I want to try and utilize the front 104 tires I have.
Has anyone used all the same components from the 104 (kingpins and tires) on the 103 front end and made it work properly?
I know if I want to use the 103 tires, I need different kingpins because the wheels are smaller, but I want to use the 104 tires I currently have.
It would save me some loot on this conversion.
If I need the 103 kingpins , what is the Tamiya part# I'm looking for?
Anybody got the scoop?
Thanks in advance.
F1 at my local track is blowing up.
I have a F104 with Exotech upgrade, but I'm still at a clear disadvantage compared to the 103s and 109s wider stance.
We don't want to separate the classes by chassis, so we run together.
I'm looking to change my front end to the 103 and the rear to the wider 103 tires.
I have a healthy stock of tires and parts for the 104 and need to know what I can still utilize for the conversion and what I have no choice to buy.
I know I need the rear tires, no choice there.
I know I need the suspension arms and longer turnbuckles.
I know the steering knuckles are compatible.
I know the springs and c-clamps are compatible.
This is the real question.
I want to try and utilize the front 104 tires I have.
Has anyone used all the same components from the 104 (kingpins and tires) on the 103 front end and made it work properly?
I know if I want to use the 103 tires, I need different kingpins because the wheels are smaller, but I want to use the 104 tires I currently have.
It would save me some loot on this conversion.
If I need the 103 kingpins , what is the Tamiya part# I'm looking for?
Anybody got the scoop?
Thanks in advance.
#3867

Joe,if you want to use your 104 fronts you can use the stock pins.
there will be some extra pin sticking out of the top of the 103 arms but the 104 rims should clear the pins.. Just set the grub screws on the knuckles to proper ride height and use any needed shims under the knuckle to control knuckle droop.
Or you can run the spring on top of the knuckle (under the top of the arm) like the current 103 upright set uses.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGJ85&P=Z
I would suggest buzzing down the front tires to get them closer to 103 size.
Btw.. Mark has been running 103 front width and 104 rear width (rear tires) to much success. The key is getting the foam small enough to control the traction roll issue.
there will be some extra pin sticking out of the top of the 103 arms but the 104 rims should clear the pins.. Just set the grub screws on the knuckles to proper ride height and use any needed shims under the knuckle to control knuckle droop.
Or you can run the spring on top of the knuckle (under the top of the arm) like the current 103 upright set uses.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGJ85&P=Z
I would suggest buzzing down the front tires to get them closer to 103 size.
Btw.. Mark has been running 103 front width and 104 rear width (rear tires) to much success. The key is getting the foam small enough to control the traction roll issue.
#3868
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)

Joe,if you want to use your 104 fronts you can use the stock pins.
there will be some extra pin sticking out of the top of the 103 arms but the 104 rims should clear the pins.. Just set the grub screws on the knuckles to proper ride height and use any needed shims under the knuckle to control knuckle droop.
Or you can run the spring on top of the knuckle (under the top of the arm) like the current 103 upright set uses.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGJ85&P=Z
I would suggest buzzing down the front tires to get them closer to 103 size.
Btw.. Mark has been running 103 front width and 104 rear width (rear tires) to much success. The key is getting the foam small enough to control the traction roll issue.
there will be some extra pin sticking out of the top of the 103 arms but the 104 rims should clear the pins.. Just set the grub screws on the knuckles to proper ride height and use any needed shims under the knuckle to control knuckle droop.
Or you can run the spring on top of the knuckle (under the top of the arm) like the current 103 upright set uses.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGJ85&P=Z
I would suggest buzzing down the front tires to get them closer to 103 size.
Btw.. Mark has been running 103 front width and 104 rear width (rear tires) to much success. The key is getting the foam small enough to control the traction roll issue.
#3870

Hi, is the latest kit the Pro Black Edition?
What is the difference between these t-bars? Which provides the most rear traction?
54165 F104 Soft T-Bar
54222 F104 High Traction T-Bar<<<<<<<
Also, Is there a single part number to convert over to the F103 front end?NO
Thanks.....
What is the difference between these t-bars? Which provides the most rear traction?
54165 F104 Soft T-Bar
54222 F104 High Traction T-Bar<<<<<<<
Also, Is there a single part number to convert over to the F103 front end?NO
Thanks.....

