Tamiya F104 Pro!
#347

... and the new front with should help with counteracting the car's front push...
#348
#349

will the F103 front and rear wheels fit the F104? I have seen a local shop that has the premounted Tamiya foams going at less than half price
#352

Off road cars hang the motor off the back end of the chassis for stability, and the battery is centered to reduce the polar moment since car will experience a ton of disturbances which may not be symmetrical. This is not the case with an F1 car. The length to width ratios are also completely different.
I think a lot of the reason the batteries have been run down the middle is to make a more realistic representation of the newer 1:1 cars which are much narrower.
I think a lot of the reason the batteries have been run down the middle is to make a more realistic representation of the newer 1:1 cars which are much narrower.
#353
Tech Regular

I'm interested in the reverse issue; we'll be able to use F104 rims on an F103; when the tires are too worn (low) to be useful on the F104, they should be coming right into perfection for an F103. Will test this at Tamiya's track as soon as I have some tires that are worn enough to fit the F103 practically.
#354

-will the sculpted sidepods clear my preferred electronics setup and transponder without making the body warp like the ones on the F-103... (unless you put insanely small electronics on it...)
-will those sidepods and other aero bits fall off in a collision like some of the aero bits on the Chevron F1.08 body set?
and im not sure if this question was answered before... but here goes...
will F-103 bodies fit on the F-104? i got quite a few bnew F-103 bodies that have never been painted yet and now i feel that the 104 made the 103 obsolete... now im planning to convert my 103RM into a 103GT...
#356

I did run the car today on an asphalt parking lot track. The rest of the field was F103s of various configurations.
One thing I did notice off the bat was that the car was somewhat sensitive to bumps. There were some cracks in the lot, one specifically in the straight, that did upset the car. Looking at the way the t bar pivots are set up, the 103 is softer front to back than the 104. My car seemed to skip and bounce over stuff more than the other cars. I even went to the soft T bar, but it was still sort of stiff front to back.
The car did turn hard off center. It was a little nervous, even after putting 60K diff oil on the front pins and going to a black front spring. The key will be to find the way to hit the sweet spot between turn in and push and turn in and get loose. Part of this might also be tires.
I wound up driving the car with the throttle more than the steering wheel. It seemed to take a bit more throttle modulation than I was used to.
Overall, pretty good. Right now I'm not sure if tires would be a big help or not. It is tougher to drive than the 103. This week I might be able to try it on carpet, maybe that will be it's forte.
One thing I did notice off the bat was that the car was somewhat sensitive to bumps. There were some cracks in the lot, one specifically in the straight, that did upset the car. Looking at the way the t bar pivots are set up, the 103 is softer front to back than the 104. My car seemed to skip and bounce over stuff more than the other cars. I even went to the soft T bar, but it was still sort of stiff front to back.
The car did turn hard off center. It was a little nervous, even after putting 60K diff oil on the front pins and going to a black front spring. The key will be to find the way to hit the sweet spot between turn in and push and turn in and get loose. Part of this might also be tires.
I wound up driving the car with the throttle more than the steering wheel. It seemed to take a bit more throttle modulation than I was used to.
Overall, pretty good. Right now I'm not sure if tires would be a big help or not. It is tougher to drive than the 103. This week I might be able to try it on carpet, maybe that will be it's forte.
#357
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)

Robk,
Check this link for F104 tires from rc-zen.com
http://translate.google.com/translat...%26rls%3Den-us
I can't wait to run the F104 on next Sunday..
Check this link for F104 tires from rc-zen.com
http://translate.google.com/translat...%26rls%3Den-us
I can't wait to run the F104 on next Sunday..


#359
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)

The instructions say as long as the servo measures 30mm from chassis to the center of the servo gear, it will work. I measured my Airtronics servo (94358) with ears cut off ( can't believe I had to cut them off ). To get it to 30mm from the chassis up, there will be a gap underneath. should I fill the gap under the servo with servo tape to make it 30mm or should I let it sit down on the chassis with a measurement of 28.35mm? What would this affect?
Last edited by svines1972; 07-06-2009 at 09:09 AM.
#360

Saw this setup on a F103 some time back, and since I got the F104 and the 9550 in my pitbox, I thought I try it on the assembly.
The Turnbuckles didn't touch the upper arms at all. Think the bumpsteer is minimised, though it cannot be removed completely. I can't wait to get the tires glued and run it for the first time.
May have to cut a little more on the lexan body for the turnbuckles to clear. By the way, I'm not going to use the plastic battery retainer as instructed in the manual. I have found some Tamiya thing to fit in place.
Do post your reviews, if you have run in similar setup like mine.
Thanks in advance!
Alfie
The Turnbuckles didn't touch the upper arms at all. Think the bumpsteer is minimised, though it cannot be removed completely. I can't wait to get the tires glued and run it for the first time.
May have to cut a little more on the lexan body for the turnbuckles to clear. By the way, I'm not going to use the plastic battery retainer as instructed in the manual. I have found some Tamiya thing to fit in place.
Do post your reviews, if you have run in similar setup like mine.
Thanks in advance!
Alfie