12LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
10-19-2010, 03:00 AM
#3496
Tech Regular
Thanks for the feedback re the diff grease!
10-19-2010, 03:13 AM
#3497
Originally Posted by mr lee
Sport tuned is 28T. 17.5 is deffinately way faster but you have to gear it higher to get the speed as the 17.5T has loads more torque. We will run the sport tuned in our local F1 TCS series for the next season....should be interesting as this is the first time in a while we will be running the F1 class, well also a first for me too 
Originally Posted by Skitee
A non boosted 17.5 at the same gearing would be slower than a sport tuned but when boosted the 17.5 would be quicker.
10-19-2010, 05:08 AM
#3498
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Arahawak
Thanks for the response, i guess now its time to try it for myself. When you say gear higher.. what is the suggested FDR to start with for a boosted 17.5?
10-19-2010, 05:09 AM
#3499
Originally Posted by Arahawak
Thanks for the response, i guess now its time to try it for myself. When you say gear higher.. what is the suggested FDR to start with for a boosted 17.5?
10-19-2010, 05:38 AM
#3500
Originally Posted by robk
Drop it right in, use the 2 screws to hold the pack down, and put all the electronics in the center.
Right now I'm looking at mounting the battery "sideways" right behind the posts and taping the LiPo in. I looked at it from what I learned from my HPI about weight in the front of the car and how that car desperately needed it.
10-20-2010, 04:25 AM
#3501
Tech Regular
Anyone ever test the difference between using the side pontoons or leaving the body as per the original mould?
I know it does not look so nice if you leave them off but are there noticable handling differences?
I know it does not look so nice if you leave them off but are there noticable handling differences?
10-20-2010, 11:04 AM
#3502
Originally Posted by abailey21
Could you by chance elaborate lol
Right now I'm looking at mounting the battery "sideways" right behind the posts and taping the LiPo in. I looked at it from what I learned from my HPI about weight in the front of the car and how that car desperately needed it.
Right now I'm looking at mounting the battery "sideways" right behind the posts and taping the LiPo in. I looked at it from what I learned from my HPI about weight in the front of the car and how that car desperately needed it.
Also if you put servo tape on the bottom of the battery and use your fingers to wear the "stick" off of it, it will also give more grip to keep the battery in place.
10-20-2010, 11:08 AM
#3503
Originally Posted by robk
Step 12 details the 2 screws (type "O") that go into the top deck to "help hold the battery in place after assembly". Thread these in from the top. You can just run the screws down until they touch the battery. I cut off the threaded end of a ball cup and threaded that onto each screw so that it would have more surface area touching the battery, and so it wouldn't dig into the battery.
Also if you put servo tape on the bottom of the battery and use your fingers to wear the "stick" off of it, it will also give more grip to keep the battery in place.
Also if you put servo tape on the bottom of the battery and use your fingers to wear the "stick" off of it, it will also give more grip to keep the battery in place.
10-21-2010, 01:10 AM
#3504
Originally Posted by mr lee
Anyone ever test the difference between using the side pontoons or leaving the body as per the original mould?
I know it does not look so nice if you leave them off but are there noticable handling differences?
I know it does not look so nice if you leave them off but are there noticable handling differences?
10-21-2010, 02:31 AM
#3505
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Skitee
The same day I ran my car I drove someone elses car without the sidepods mounted and couldn't really see any major difference, honestly I think running different wings would make more of a difference than not mounting the sidepods.
Going to give it a miss then as I do not have time for detail.....it will only get banged up anyway and I am sure the body will have a little more strength if left as is!
10-21-2010, 03:28 AM
#3506
The rear wing is where you're going to see most of the car's downforce. I've been told that the F60 rear wing works the best.
10-21-2010, 04:01 AM
#3507
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Foxxrocket
The rear wing is where you're going to see most of the car's downforce. I've been told that the F60 rear wing works the best.
10-21-2010, 04:12 AM
#3509
Tech Regular
Has to be according to Tamiya cup rules.
10-21-2010, 07:14 AM
#3510
for the TCS rules, they mandated the use of the same wings on the same body (i.e. Ferrari F60 body = Ferrari F60 front and rear wings.)
but in the Tamiya Asia Cup series, even though the same rule was implied, it was still a grey area. while some of us ran the generic F-104 bodyshell with matching wings, we noted a few racers using the Ferrari F60 body but with the F-104 rear wing.
during the 2010 Tamiya Asia Cup Finals, since the surface was indoor carpet, the ideal body setup used by the majority in the A-Final was the F-104 body and wing combo. a few used the Ferrari F60 body and wing. but one of the F60 runners used an F-104 rear wing.
but in the Tamiya Asia Cup series, even though the same rule was implied, it was still a grey area. while some of us ran the generic F-104 bodyshell with matching wings, we noted a few racers using the Ferrari F60 body but with the F-104 rear wing.
during the 2010 Tamiya Asia Cup Finals, since the surface was indoor carpet, the ideal body setup used by the majority in the A-Final was the F-104 body and wing combo. a few used the Ferrari F60 body and wing. but one of the F60 runners used an F-104 rear wing.
