Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Hi,

Possible to fit HPI F10's rear tyres onto F104 rear wheels?

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

so it would have nothing to do with grip?

LordAnubis

iTrader: (19)

As far as my physics understanding goes... a carbon shaft will be lighter, and will allow you to take off quicker... but at top speed it wont make any difference... well maybe to brake it will be a bit quicker... The steel shaft being heavier means it'll be slower on take off... but that will also mean it's smoother power ... make of that what you will...

If you're allowed, rub some WD40 onto your rear rubber tyres... let it soak in for a few seconds, then wipe it off with a rag... your tyres will stick up something cronic... thats if you're allowed to use "additives" with your tyres... here we are jsut relaxed racers so no one cares... also.. its cheaper to buy cans of wd40 than it is to buy a 150 buck tyre warmer... which are perfectly allowed...

Also, when taking corners... keep on the throttle.... youll be surprised how well the car can handle when you've got some speed. I'm not good by any stretch of the term, but on the weekend just gone i barely let go of the throttle and i didn't spin out once !!! It's when you back off the throttle that you loose traction and spin.

Battery choice is also very crucial... before i learnt the wd40 trick... using a nimh battery rather than a lipo battery made a whole world of difference !!!! using the wd40 on the tyres and using a lipo was great performance and handling wise was top notch too. Using wd40 and a nimh battery was good handling wise but performance was lacking due to the weight.

mrwendal6

About 2 weeks ago I purchased my F104, it was my first pan car and first on-road car at that. I have read this entire thread from the start, yes all 220 pages. Since that time have made some initial changes to the car given what i have learned. Tons of things here.

Still haven't hit the local track but have had some shake down runs in a recently paved parking lot walking distance from my house. Parking lot is smooth but has no where near the grip the prepared track I will race at.

Id post a picture but need to get a post count under my belt first.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

It improves rear pod suspension action thus improving grip. Lighter rear pod (including axles/ wheels) means it can respond quicker to the track surface for better tire contact.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Steel axle helps me finish races.

Graphite axle helps me DNF races.

Oh, like you never hit the boards!

Foxxrocket

Yep, I used a Carbon fiber axle once, and it only lasted two race days. The CF axle gives you good on power grip, but at the cost of being fragile in a hit to the rear wheels, or screwing down the set screw to tight. The aluminium axle isn't much better. The steel axle that comes with the kit is the best axle you can have on the car.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I never hit the boards- they jump out and hit me!
Look at my you tube video, it really happened haha!

Steel- finish races... agreed
CF- bends but goes back straight... still running original Cf shafts in both my cars
Alloy- bends (fairly easily) and stays bent

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I like to consider myself the unofficial F104 impact durability tester and I have yet to damage the carbon shaft. When I do, I will replace it with the steel one though.

hanzo3

iTrader: (55)

Ok I picked up a soft tbar. hope that helps w/ traction. What servo do you guys run? I run an ace 1015. I use a QC3 esc. Do I need to run the soft setting?

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

If you are having traction issues, go with soft 'mechanical' settings, meaning to say soft t-bar, soft centre spring with some damping grease on the friction plates and soft tires from Tamiya or Ride.

Try it with Hard tires from Tamiya or Ride also. Also you can try lower ride height at the rear compare to the front. Something like 4 mm rear 5 mm front.

Front springs wise, you can try from the hardest and slowly proceed to a softer spring depending on your driving style.

Electronic setting wise, you might want to try with the default setting on your QC3 and slowly progress with the throttle punch on your ESC if you are having no traction issues.

nbusetti

Just recently I purchased the new Tamiya Wolf WR1 F104W kits from RC Mart. For the main colour of the body it has listed in the manual to use Tamiya PS Dark Blue (Limited Edition) which appears to be coming soon as listed on Tamiya’s website.

Does anyone know if this PS Dark Blue (Limited Edition) is much different from Tamiya’s PS-4 Blue?

I am considering racing my F1 car and I don’t want to damage the Wolf WR body. I have been browsing through the after-market bodies on RC Mart as I might get to the track faster considering the paint is holding up the process. Does anyone know if the TRG or ZEN bodies would fit the F104 chassis as it says it will fit the F103 chassis and I am not sure how different these two chassis’s are.

Thanks

Foxxrocket

Just use tamiya blue and back it with black. Their blue is dark anyways.

nbusetti

Thanks Foxxrocket for the alternative painting method. I might give that a go.

Anyone know if TRG or ZEN F1 bodies will fit the F104 chassis?

Thanks

Foxxrocket

Most of the time they should say what cars their bodies will fit. There are not too many aftermarket companies that make bodies for the 104 right now. The only one that comes to mind is Chevron.