12LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
07-09-2010, 06:02 AM
#3001
We have been running a mixture of F104 and F102 for a while now and use the Tamiya Formula Tuned motors, any ESC/batteries (as more powerful (and hence larger) LiPos tend not to fit these chassis anyway). No restrictions regarding tyres as for the older Tamiya F1's it a case of buy what you can find as much as anything else, but you'll either want everyone on foams or rubbers IMHO.
This results in pretty close racing in my experience. You could just as easily run silver can motors to keep costs down further but we found that the variations of silver can motor gave some a random advantage. Of course you may wish to run faster motors (our track is quite tight) but be warned that these cars can be quite a handful and in my experience the racing is better when you havent got half of the field spinning out and unable to put the power down.
TL01 safety-car is optional.
Happy racing!
This results in pretty close racing in my experience. You could just as easily run silver can motors to keep costs down further but we found that the variations of silver can motor gave some a random advantage. Of course you may wish to run faster motors (our track is quite tight) but be warned that these cars can be quite a handful and in my experience the racing is better when you havent got half of the field spinning out and unable to put the power down.
TL01 safety-car is optional.
Happy racing!
How well do the kit supplied rubber tires work on carpet?
07-09-2010, 06:48 AM
#3003
Our local carpet track is considering starting a F1 class. We have a pretty good mix of good drivers and up and comers. Can I get some recommendations as to what we should start with for rules? I'm talking about tires, motors, speedos, batteries. What works at your track? What doesn't work?
Thanks
Thanks
Chassis/motor rules:
Open wheel F1 style rear wheel drive 1/10 cars
rubber or foam tires
Realsiic bodies and wings
wheels appropriate to chassis (no pan car wheels)
540J silver can and 21.5 brushless motors only are elgible for scoring points
ESC's with advancing must be turned off...
2 cell LiPo or 6 cell (NiMh/NiCd) hobby pack batteries only
Open wheel F1 style rear wheel drive 1/10 cars
rubber or foam tires
Realsiic bodies and wings
wheels appropriate to chassis (no pan car wheels)
540J silver can and 21.5 brushless motors only are elgible for scoring points
ESC's with advancing must be turned off...
2 cell LiPo or 6 cell (NiMh/NiCd) hobby pack batteries only
The rubber/foam classes bring an interesting mix, if you have enough participants.
Ride A's are the bomb for carpet. F101-F103
Ride Supersoft-Rr/Soft=Fr are fairly good for the 104, shimizu are good too
TQ racing in Chino Hills, Ca are stocking the Ride tires, apparently the Ride rims are being upgraded so we are waiting on those.
For the HPI F10, I understand Soft rear, Medium front HPI rubber is a good baseline.
We really like the non boosted 21.5 for consistency and low temps in our 10min mains, however silvercans have been known to steal wins occasionally.
07-11-2010, 06:23 PM
#3004
Does anyone know the part number for the rear wing to the F60? I really don't want to buy the whole body kit.
07-12-2010, 07:53 AM
#3006
has anyone tried a 1s 4.5t setup on this chassis, similar to the 12th scale.. on foam?
07-12-2010, 09:31 AM
#3008
hopefully i will give the ride wheel/tires a go to see if there are any improvements, but would be curious if this chassis can run as good as the 1/12 scale mod cars using the type b foams and with a mod motor...
what are you guys doing to improve the front suspension? add grease around it to simulate dampening like a shock... i am reasonably satisfied with the rear but the front seems to bounce at times... please note i am running a fairly bumpy track
lastly i tried the zen 104 top deck... i had asked about that a while ago but no one answered... but my initial impression is that there is no change in performance or none that i noticed... but much easier to mount/replace lipo packs
07-12-2010, 09:50 AM
#3009
that's good info.. I am currently running 17.5 with tekin.. no boost on a medium grip indoor asphalt track... using the new tamiya soft rear and hard front... the car is running a lot better than what i was expecting and heard about...
hopefully i will give the ride wheel/tires a go to see if there are any improvements, but would be curious if this chassis can run as good as the 1/12 scale mod cars using the type b foams and with a mod motor...
what are you guys doing to improve the front suspension? add grease around it to simulate dampening like a shock... i am reasonably satisfied with the rear but the front seems to bounce at times... please note i am running a fairly bumpy track
lastly i tried the zen 104 top deck... i had asked about that a while ago but no one answered... but my initial impression is that there is no change in performance or none that i noticed... but much easier to mount/replace lipo packs
hopefully i will give the ride wheel/tires a go to see if there are any improvements, but would be curious if this chassis can run as good as the 1/12 scale mod cars using the type b foams and with a mod motor...
what are you guys doing to improve the front suspension? add grease around it to simulate dampening like a shock... i am reasonably satisfied with the rear but the front seems to bounce at times... please note i am running a fairly bumpy track
lastly i tried the zen 104 top deck... i had asked about that a while ago but no one answered... but my initial impression is that there is no change in performance or none that i noticed... but much easier to mount/replace lipo packs
On a good day I could get the 104 w/foam tires within .2 of the F-103 on foams.
There are tracks where rubber tires are decent, but Foam is always faster imo.
Silicon lube in the 50K range works well to tame the front end bounce.
5K on the lower pod damper disk is a good starting point.
Also the 3.5mm offset front blocks are good to tame the nervous front end, but only if you have excess amounts of front grip available.
07-12-2010, 10:25 AM
#3010
I can't see the 104 ever coming close to a proper 12th scale in terms of performance or laptimes, at best it will be at least 1 sec off the pace, but realistically, 1,5 sec or more...
On a good day I could get the 104 w/foam tires within .2 of the F-103 on foams.
There are tracks where rubber tires are decent, but Foam is always faster imo.
Silicon lube in the 50K range works well to tame the front end bounce.
5K on the lower pod damper disk is a good starting point.
Also the 3.5mm offset front blocks are good to tame the nervous front end, but only if you have excess amounts of front grip available.
On a good day I could get the 104 w/foam tires within .2 of the F-103 on foams.
There are tracks where rubber tires are decent, but Foam is always faster imo.
Silicon lube in the 50K range works well to tame the front end bounce.
5K on the lower pod damper disk is a good starting point.
Also the 3.5mm offset front blocks are good to tame the nervous front end, but only if you have excess amounts of front grip available.
Thanks RedBullFiXX good tip on the diff lub, i am using regular associated diff lube on the pod and the front springs to slow down movement a bit... i am sure the thicker grease will do the trick... will try it out this weekend
that is an intresting perspective regarding comparison with a 1/12 scale, is it because of the rear pod or that the 104 is too narrow.. or not enough downforce compared to the 1/12 scale you feel it will not be as good? or maybe other reasons?
07-12-2010, 01:17 PM
#3011
Thanks RedBullFiXX good tip on the diff lub, i am using regular associated diff lube on the pod and the front springs to slow down movement a bit... i am sure the thicker grease will do the trick... will try it out this weekend
that is an intresting perspective regarding comparison with a 1/12 scale, is it because of the rear pod or that the 104 is too narrow.. or not enough downforce compared to the 1/12 scale you feel it will not be as good? or maybe other reasons?
that is an intresting perspective regarding comparison with a 1/12 scale, is it because of the rear pod or that the 104 is too narrow.. or not enough downforce compared to the 1/12 scale you feel it will not be as good? or maybe other reasons?
My 12R5.1 w/13.5 boosted, is as fast or faster than 13.5 TC's, and I know an F1 won't get close to that.
Not an F1 spec car anyway, I don't know what the Pan car F1's are capable of (i.e Corally and such), but they don't really look like an F1 so what's the point ?
07-12-2010, 01:23 PM
#3012
There are a lot of things acting together that make a 1/12th scale have better grip than your typical F1. Aerodynamics certainly is a big part of it for sure. Also while the F1 suspension tends to be similar they typically are not as good and don't have as many adjustments. In 1/12th scale you see very little plastic being used as bulkheads like we do in F1. And the tire compounds have a lot more time and development in them, not to mention the difference in width between front and rear tires is greater than current F1 cars that are not just a converted pan car.
07-12-2010, 03:21 PM
#3013
We've raced against 12th scale in F1, and only our best F1 driver was able to fight them off. The damn things are just too quick to race against.
07-14-2010, 11:14 AM
#3014
agree with you guys... i guess when i think of f1 in rc.. i want it to be the fastest one just because it is f1 
maybe over time the rc versions would develop more...
i have been reading about the trg f109 not to be confused with the 3racing version of the chassis.. that looks pretty interesting... other than the f201 were there any other tamiya f1 cars that had 4 wheel independant suspension?
maybe over time the rc versions would develop more...i have been reading about the trg f109 not to be confused with the 3racing version of the chassis.. that looks pretty interesting... other than the f201 were there any other tamiya f1 cars that had 4 wheel independant suspension?
