Tamiya F104 Pro!
#2986
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)

Sorry to interrupt - Thought that a thread visitor may be interested in a F104 Pro I have for sale:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ro-extras.html
Thanks.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ro-extras.html
Thanks.
#2987

Sorry to interrupt - Thought that a thread visitor may be interested in a F104 Pro I have for sale:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ro-extras.html
Thanks.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ro-extras.html
Thanks.
It should go quick !
#2988

I understand why some drivers run a loose diff on loose tracks.
But in my experience it's always slower for laptime, because some of the corners do not need it.
With radio adjustments, car setup, and tires I have always found a way to go faster than my diff slipping competitors
But in my experience it's always slower for laptime, because some of the corners do not need it.
With radio adjustments, car setup, and tires I have always found a way to go faster than my diff slipping competitors

#2989

Here's my 2 cents (only 1 cent actual value
),
Rebuild the diff with new stuff, all of it, you can polish the rings if you really like it super sweet.
To adjust it to the loosest safe setting, which is still sketchy, put the car on the surface you will be running on and find one of the highest traction areas then punch it. If it slips, tighten it, when it doesn't slip you're done.
Better still, hold the wheels to the ground and punch it quickly, slowly tighten it a little at a time til it won't slip.
It will still feel smooth, never slip, and will last a very long time before needing a rebuild cuz it never slips which is what will wear the rings and diff balls instantly.
That's why I prefer the 103 type adjuster, I'll check it this way easily before each run.
That's how I roll


Rebuild the diff with new stuff, all of it, you can polish the rings if you really like it super sweet.
To adjust it to the loosest safe setting, which is still sketchy, put the car on the surface you will be running on and find one of the highest traction areas then punch it. If it slips, tighten it, when it doesn't slip you're done.
Better still, hold the wheels to the ground and punch it quickly, slowly tighten it a little at a time til it won't slip.
It will still feel smooth, never slip, and will last a very long time before needing a rebuild cuz it never slips which is what will wear the rings and diff balls instantly.
That's why I prefer the 103 type adjuster, I'll check it this way easily before each run.
That's how I roll



#2990

Please a minute of silence 


#2991

Well for those of you wanting an externally adjustable diff for the F104 the 3Racing aftermarket diff is adjustable and doesn't build the thrust assembly inside the wheel like the F103. It has an adjustment ring on the bulkhead side of the diff. It is a pretty interesting design but I am finding it needs a little refinement. Rather than an adjustment ring designed to be turned by finger I would prefer a nut. Still it is an interesting design that can probably be really good with a little fiddling.
#2992

Hi, looking for some aftermarket rubber tires. Thinking about Ride, RP, and PitShimizu. Does anyone have a favorite pick of brand and compounds? Also, are all these tires designed to fit the kit rims? Thanks
#2994

You might be able to get away with the old Group C bodies from Tamiya (Mercedes-Benz C11, Nissan R91CP, Mazda 787B, Jaguar XJR-9 Castrol), as far as wheelbase is concern, but will probably be too wide for the F104 chassis. Converting it to an F104W will fix that problem though. Otherwise, just wait for the F104W to be released. I haven't tried this yet, but I own a Tamiya Group C car chassis and it's a little bit longer than an F103, with similar width.
#2995
#2996
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)

thanks for this information charles.
with the drilling of the wheels, as a guide, what size should the hole be.
I've been having success with the tamiya rubber tires, and wonder if a air hole might help a little more, so was interested in what size the hole should be.
with the drilling of the wheels, as a guide, what size should the hole be.
I've been having success with the tamiya rubber tires, and wonder if a air hole might help a little more, so was interested in what size the hole should be.
#2997

thanks for this information charles.
with the drilling of the wheels, as a guide, what size should the hole be.
I've been having success with the tamiya rubber tires, and wonder if a air hole might help a little more, so was interested in what size the hole should be.
with the drilling of the wheels, as a guide, what size should the hole be.
I've been having success with the tamiya rubber tires, and wonder if a air hole might help a little more, so was interested in what size the hole should be.
#2998

Our local carpet track is considering starting a F1 class. We have a pretty good mix of good drivers and up and comers. Can I get some recommendations as to what we should start with for rules? I'm talking about tires, motors, speedos, batteries. What works at your track? What doesn't work?
Thanks
Thanks
#2999

Our local carpet track is considering starting a F1 class. We have a pretty good mix of good drivers and up and comers. Can I get some recommendations as to what we should start with for rules? I'm talking about tires, motors, speedos, batteries. What works at your track? What doesn't work?
Thanks
Thanks
This results in pretty close racing in my experience. You could just as easily run silver can motors to keep costs down further but we found that the variations of silver can motor gave some a random advantage. Of course you may wish to run faster motors (our track is quite tight) but be warned that these cars can be quite a handful and in my experience the racing is better when you havent got half of the field spinning out and unable to put the power down.
TL01 safety-car is optional.

Happy racing!