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Old 07-05-2010, 06:27 AM   #2971
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Does the F104 aluminum diff housing fit on the F103? I like the idea of the housing not falling out, when the rear wheel is removed.
Yes.
You need the 104 axle too.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:18 AM   #2972
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The F104 F60 Ferrari kit uses the F103 axle/diff setup.

If you want to change from one type to the other I think you will need the whole assembly for each application.

I'd hate to have to disassemble to adjust the diff a tiny bit, F103 type for me all the way.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:11 PM   #2973
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The F104 F60 Ferrari kit uses the F103 axle/diff setup.
Bummer.
The pro setup is very nice.
I have it on my 103.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:15 PM   #2974
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I'd hate to have to disassemble to adjust the diff a tiny bit, F103 type for me all the way.

Yep, it's not like your'e changing tires all the time, especially when running rubber. It's more of a hassle to remove the wheel, loosen set screw, remove pin, remove threaded thingy, adjust diff nut and then reverse the procedure only to find out it's still too tight or loose so all over again. I miss just having a 7mm in my pocket.
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:42 AM   #2975
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Originally Posted by FREAKAH View Post
Yep, it's not like your'e changing tires all the time, especially when running rubber. It's more of a hassle to remove the wheel, loosen set screw, remove pin, remove threaded thingy, adjust diff nut and then reverse the procedure only to find out it's still too tight or loose so all over again. I miss just having a 7mm in my pocket.
When you set the diff, just throw on your wheel without the set screw, without the pin, without the threaded thingy, just put the wheel on... hold the two rear wheels firmly in the palms of your hands and use your right forefinger and thumb to twist the spur gear... as you know you want it very tight but still be able to turn,,, once it's set, then put on set screw, pin, threaded thingy ect...
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:14 AM   #2976
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btw anyone using a Zen top deck on the F104 pro? any performance differences? or the main advantage to it is easier battery mounting
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:50 AM   #2977
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Originally Posted by lightfoot View Post
When you set the diff, just throw on your wheel without the set screw, without the pin, without the threaded thingy, just put the wheel on... hold the two rear wheels firmly in the palms of your hands and use your right forefinger and thumb to twist the spur gear... as you know you want it very tight but still be able to turn,,, once it's set, then put on set screw, pin, threaded thingy ect...
That's how I do it but I also find myself fine tuning on track even after that.
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:26 AM   #2978
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That's how I do it but I also find myself fine tuning on track even after that.
Ahh, yes... fine tuning ... I wish I was good enough to notice the effects of fine tune adjustments There has to be a huge problem for me to notice something is wrong on my car, like missing a wheel or something...
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:50 AM   #2979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfoot View Post
Ahh, yes... fine tuning ... I wish I was good enough to notice the effects of fine tune adjustments There has to be a huge problem for me to notice something is wrong on my car, like missing a wheel or something...
I'm with Light Foot on this.
For me the diff is locked, or needs a re-build
I never use that as an adjustment.
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Old 07-06-2010, 12:48 PM   #2980
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The track Freakah and I run at is super loose for pan cars so the diffs need to be set a lot more loose than most places. On my F103 I have to run quite a bit of slip in the diff to make the car manageable.
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:42 PM   #2981
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Why would you want to tighten the diff? Isn't it better to loosen the diff as much as possible to get the outer wheel turning faster in corners? I thought thats how diffs are supposed to work.
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:59 PM   #2982
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The track Freakah and I run at is super loose for pan cars so the diffs need to be set a lot more loose than most places. On my F103 I have to run quite a bit of slip in the diff to make the car manageable.
If you run your diff as a "slipper", even just a little slip, it will become junk in one run.

Here's my 2 cents (only 1 cent actual value),
Rebuild the diff with new stuff, all of it, you can polish the rings if you really like it super sweet.

To adjust it to the loosest safe setting, which is still sketchy, put the car on the surface you will be running on and find one of the highest traction areas then punch it. If it slips, tighten it, when it doesn't slip you're done.

Better still, hold the wheels to the ground and punch it quickly, slowly tighten it a little at a time til it won't slip.
It will still feel smooth, never slip, and will last a very long time before needing a rebuild cuz it never slips which is what will wear the rings and diff balls instantly.
That's why I prefer the 103 type adjuster, I'll check it this way easily before each run.

That's how I roll
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:50 PM   #2983
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Back in the early days of pan car racing having the diff slip was quite common. The normal setting back then was to have the diff slip for 6 inches. Yes it wears the diff out more than not slipping it but it really takes quite awhile before it gets bad. Tamiya has always made a very robust diff on the f1 cars so it can take it no problem. Sometimes that is what you have to do to control power to the wheels. Better to slip the diff, have some control over the car, and rebuild it once in awhile than to have a car that is uncontrollably loose and no fun to drive.
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:08 PM   #2984
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diff slip is different with different amounts of traction. On a low grip track a 'loose' diff doesn't slip but does on high grip so you need it tighter
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:21 PM   #2985
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I understand why some drivers run a loose diff on loose tracks.
But in my experience it's always slower for laptime, because some of the corners do not need it.

With radio adjustments, car setup, and tires I have always found a way to go faster than my diff slipping competitors
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