InspGadgt

Personally I prefer a stiff chassis on any surface...I don't like it when the chassis has to do some of the work the suspension is supposed to do.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

This makes perfect sense but softening up the chassis can be a bonus when it seems that the tires and suspension have met their limits.

Short chassis brace, soft T plate and the fiberglass chassis all can be considered suspension adjustments.
Sure made the difference on my ride after Supersoft rears and HBR Mediums weren't quite enough to get it done on My F103.

Now the guys are going to the fiberglass chassis and soft T plate on the F104 with soft rear and kit/firmer front rubber tires.

I ran my brand new F104/F60 like this today (minus the soft T plate cuz I don't have one) and the car was very happy and easy to drive.

Still, all about the tires.
Without the right ones, you aint got a chance.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Still, all about the tires.
Without the right ones, you aint got a chance.[/QUOTE]

This is true about the tires!!!!

FREAKAH

Same here.

I run my Losi Type R with everything locked down and that makes a really stiff chassis. Thats how I approached the 104 but when I had the jiggling and skippering problem(later found it was sticking kingpins), the first thing came to mind was that the chassis was too stiff. Now that I know what was the cause, i'm sticking with the carbon chassis and full length upper.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

anyone experiment on t plate cuts-or drill outs-?We used to do this in the old days;but I forget just where to drill or slice(old timers disease).It did work

robk

iTrader: (22)

As far as the chassis, it depends on the car to some extent I guess. Both the 103 and 104 are upper and lower deck cars, unlike a typical 1/12 or 1/10 pan car which may have a cross brace but no real upper deck and are also quite a bit wider overall. At least on carpet, this car do 2 things, both of which are bad. In low bite, the car will have less grip. In high bite, it will be too twitchy.

I was at a TCS race where the carpet was fairly low grip and I had my 103 setup with the full length graphite top deck and bottom chassis. My car was just not very good. My buddy told me to look at the guy whose car was the fastest. Of course, he was running the 103RM with all fiberglass components, which I was advised to put on my car post haste. As soon as I switched my car to fiberglass parts, it was night and day difference in feel and grip. The car was instantly on pace. I was running around the pits looking for my buddy like "did you see that???", and he was just laughing.

Going from that experience, I tested the fiberglass lower with short and long fiberglass upper decks, and the graphite upper. The short upper deck is very forgiving, but also gives up steering. Both long upper decks had similar steering, with the fiberglass being a bit more forgiving. Both work pretty similar to each other. What really seems to work well is o rings under the screws at the very front of the top deck. You can adjust the sensitivity depending how tight you make the o rings, yet not really give up steering.

The 104 F60 chassis looks to be some kind of FRP stuff, not the same as the 103 "woven" fiberglass. It's a thick slab, and does not seem to flex like the woven stuff. It's probably not as stiff as graphite, but it's not a flexy flyer either. I ran it with foams indoor, and it didn't seem much different than the graphite, but with the posts, bulkhead, and servo mounts, it's still really stiff. The problem with the 104 is that the front suspension is integral to the front of the chassis, so you can't put o rings there. Time to put the thinking caps on...

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

I am not sure if this question has been asked before but i'll ask again.

Tamiya offered the new spur adaptor (Part no. 54215 OP.1215) to fit TA05, TB03 etc spur gears.

My question is what is the benefit of running this spurs? Say for example, i want to run a ratio of around 3.50, i can choose to run 27/93 (3.44), 30/104 (3.47), 30/105 (3.50).. the above 3 combination is about 0.6 ration in difference but really close.

So what is that take-away and real benefits?

Can i assume that a faster motor say, 23T/11.5T brushless may be ideal for bigger spurs and a slower motor like the silver can/formula tuned 32t a smaller spur??

Thanks

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

the, in my opinion, best point of this part is that you can use spur gears that are readily available - you are not 'stuck' with only running the tamiya f104/f103-purpose-designed spurs

since you can run anyone's spurs, that mean you can run anyone's pinion gears - again, so you aren't stuck with having to buy a complete collection of metric 64p pinions to match the Tamiya spurs

Barry White

New T and left wheel adaptor:

PDR

iTrader: (31)

What does the new left wheel adaptor do?

Barry White

It's a clamping style type (no setscrew in your expensive carbon shaft).

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Ok - I'll get one (or two)

Metla

Can anyone comment on the T-bars from 3racing?

They don't seem to be discussed or even mentioned so far, and one of the sets listed as for the f104 doesn't even look like it would fit.

Barry White

I'd go with the normal shaped ones (not the 1 piece pod plate/t bar combo) as they flex the same left and right.

Metla

Ah, so thats what the extra bit is, Its obvious now its been pointed out.