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Tamiya F104 Pro!

Old 02-07-2010, 10:33 AM
  #2146  
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Originally Posted by Arthur Burns
...It is not oversteering so much as staying in the turn. I don't think the steering servo is binding. but maybe. Thanks to everyone that answered. I will work on everything you all recommended.
I had slight clearance issues with the ball cups hitting the servo case, perhaps that is worth checking. If you are using thick damper disk lube/grease, I could imagine the car getting "stuck" at full lean, but that's kinda stretching it for causes.
Originally Posted by rhino131
"My continuing efforts to make a night racer f1
now with 9 lights including one in the drivers helmet painted with glow in the dark paint" TRON 2010
Originally Posted by zpmhinojosa
What the H is that?
Youngsters!

Originally Posted by Arahawak
I read a few post behind that the Shimizu rears are good. Updates on Ride when you got them. I suppose so, my local TAC or TCS as you guys called it are runnning foams on carpet and rubbers on asphalt as a rule ...
Yeah, the two places I've raced F1 on carpet here on the east coast of the US have used foam tires on carpet. I tried the F60 kit tires (B's perhaps?) on carpet, but there was absolutely no rear grip. If I had to do that again, I would try FMWs insert suggestion for the rear tires.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:12 PM
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Default Essential upgrades

OK guys,

I should be picking up a 104 pro this week. What are some of the essential upgrades that should be included with the initial build? I'm only a fan of aluminum if its functional, not too into the bling thing. I plan on running rubber tires, outdoors. Any help or tips for initial set up / build tips would be great.

Thanks in advance guys
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by J-VET
OK guys,

I should be picking up a 104 pro this week. What are some of the essential upgrades that should be included with the initial build? I'm only a fan of aluminum if its functional, not too into the bling thing. I plan on running rubber tires, outdoors. Any help or tips for initial set up / build tips would be great.

Thanks in advance guys
I would start with the following.
And add other Hop-Ups as you see fit.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54169


http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54166
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by J-VET
OK guys,

I should be picking up a 104 pro this week. What are some of the essential upgrades that should be included with the initial build? I'm only a fan of aluminum if its functional, not too into the bling thing. I plan on running rubber tires, outdoors. Any help or tips for initial set up / build tips would be great.

Thanks in advance guys
The only upgrade I needed was the aluminum pod plates for heat dissipation reasons. Other racers have mentioned the 3.5mm offset steering knuckles as must haves as well.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
Youngsters!
lol, I wish. Turning 38 this year !

doing stuff like this makes me feel young tho
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:01 PM
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Do the 3.5 offset knuckles just extend the track width? How does this effect the cars reactions, I'm new to 2wd onroad.

Thanks
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by zharn
Just need this damn rain to go away so i can test it out. Driving up and down the street seems encouraging. Its around 205mm at the back.

What a good rollout for 17.5?

Anyone got any jaco pinks they want to sell?



The only problem was the rear axle holders, but i shimmed it with a sliver of metal from 13/32 pipe and the flanged bearings will keep it in there.
On my 17.5T its geared at 4.04 on Tamiya rubber tires. Speed is about the same with Sports Tuned motor. Motor temp after 15 minutes run is warm.

OM
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:06 AM
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Default Hop-ups

Has anyone tried either of these single piece aluminum motor mounts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tuneup-R%2FC-Alu...20002001r36549

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...a-p-29758.html



Or would you want to go this route?

http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-f...l?currency=NZD

with....

http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-f...-90014274.html
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:00 AM
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Default Finding parts

Does anyone know where to get a RC Spur Gear Spacer Item #54215 for the F104? "Using this spacer will enable spur gears from touring cars to be installed ."

Also, does anyone know where the Tamiya RC 04 Module Spur Gear - 93T/104T Item #53900 are in stock in the US? I can't seem to find them anywhere other than the other side of the world.

Thanks for you feedback.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by PDR
Yeah, the two places I've raced F1 on carpet here on the east coast of the US have used foam tires on carpet. I tried the F60 kit tires (B's perhaps?) on carpet, but there was absolutely no rear grip. If I had to do that again, I would try FMWs insert suggestion for the rear tires.
Sorry i missed it. What did FMW suggested to use?
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by J-VET
Do the 3.5 offset knuckles just extend the track width? How does this effect the cars reactions, I'm new to 2wd onroad.
Thanks
The 3.5mm measurement is how far back the axles are moved, essentially shortening the wheelbase a bit. They soften the initial reaction of the car to steering inputs, but I can't remember what they do mid-corner on out. RobK, care to chime in on this one?

Originally Posted by Arahawak
Sorry i missed it. What did FMW suggested to use?
Originally Posted by Fred from Tamiya on the TCS thread
....Rubber guys. Here's a tip for the Tamiya track. The stock rubber tires that come with the Ferrari F60 are B like compounds. That means they are for warmer weather. In two weeks we will be announcing a Type A compound for cold weather. You will need these if you race carpet and you will need these if you race in track tems that are below 65 degrees F. Here's another tip. Build your rear tires with some type of air gap. The stock foam for the Tamiya track at least fills the tire too much. I built them stock and with air gap and air gap is way better. It's night and day. Some people have built the rears with no insert, but I think that's too much. It works for sure, but you wear the rear tires more. My next test will be with fron air gap. Also, a normal 24mm shaped touring car insert will work fine for the rear. You will just have to cut a half inch or so and re-glue. Don't make the insert too tight around the rim as you will close off the hole in the rim.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by J-VET
Do the 3.5 offset knuckles just extend the track width? How does this effect the cars reactions, I'm new to 2wd onroad.

Thanks
The 3.5 offsets front knuckles do indeed shorten the wheel base.
They are going to increase the on power steering, but decrease the off power steering. The car is going to have more of a solid feel in the corners, rather than the drive in and get loose when lifting feel.
Hope this helps.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by iknowjoe
Does anyone know where to get a RC Spur Gear Spacer Item #54215 for the F104? "Using this spacer will enable spur gears from touring cars to be installed ."

Also, does anyone know where the Tamiya RC 04 Module Spur Gear - 93T/104T Item #53900 are in stock in the US? I can't seem to find them anywhere other than the other side of the world.

Thanks for you feedback.
Joe, I used this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT


this weekend and it worked like a champ.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:00 PM
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If you're really in a pinch you can ream out the centre of a spur gear to the size of the bearing that fits into the Tamiya spur. That's what I had to do for this weekend. I use 48p gears though, so if the hole isn't perfectly centred it's ok because the gear teeth are big enough to take up a little bit of slack. I used an 81t. I think the biggest gear that would fit would be an 87t.

Also, another tip for all my fellow unemployed racers! If you let a 7 year remove your rear wheels and he breaks the threads for the wheel nut you can cut the stud off the hub and drill a hole where it was (from the backside, since it's conical and will centre the drill bit), thread the hole and insert a button head 3mm screw from the backside of the hub to replace the broken stud. Just use a large washer under the 3mm locknut to hold the wheel securely.

Those the two things I had to do to make my F104 pro ready for racing last week! Ghetto, yes, but both solutions worked flawlessly and I was able to get my car working.
*Note- F104 parts aren't easy to get around where I live, especially within a week.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
The 3.5mm measurement is how far back the axles are moved, essentially shortening the wheelbase a bit. They soften the initial reaction of the car to steering inputs, but I can't remember what they do mid-corner on out. RobK, care to chime in on this one?
Like Jamie said, they kill the crazy off power twitchy-ness. I have more experience with them on the F103, but they seem to work better on more flowing tracks (and I'm sure Jamie is spot on about the on power steering too)
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