John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

Toe out is supposed to make the car turn in harder.
Toe in is supposed to stabilize it in the straits.
But you knew that already....
Fact is, any amount other than perfectly straight will add mechanical grip to the car. But toe in is more stable than toe out.

Apex

iTrader: (49)

Most pan cars with NIMH batteries down the middle have this handling characteristic going from push to oversteer since more weight is to the front of the chassis. So it's that much harder to dial your setup.

Now that everyone is going LiPO and since LiPO's are lighter, having the LiPO down the middle isn't so much of an issue and will be a easier to dial in your setup.

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

I know what "they" say and what I feel...lol

On my personal cars a little toe out definately gives more turn in off power, but also seems to make it easier to track straight and be slightly less over reactive...but thats me. I've never had good luck with toe in.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Hey Guys i just bought the latest tamiya F104 as a few of us bought coz there WAY COOL, but hopefully to get a small group here in Adelaide , South Australia a F1 team...

What is a decent engine to put in this car and what ESC could you recommend - we hope to run a 5000mah batter for max tiime run but what are your combo thoughts on a brushless engine?

Hey i am a Nitro boy so i am a bit dumb to electric class


cheers Guys!
Frankie

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

I think a perfect combo would be an LRP SPX and a 21.5.
I was impressed with my VTA and the same combo.
The F1 would even be more impressive!

brettness37

iTrader: (3)

What worked here, to get people into it, is one driver brought his F103 repeatedly to raceday, and left it sitting on his pit table. People kept picking it up and asking questions... now there are ~10 of us ready to go, and more sure to fall in line.

fat500

iTrader: (50)

mine is here......leeeeett the building begin
I can tell just by looking at the unassembled parts and the manual fitting brushless is going to be a challange. I may just put a black can in it.
the rear portion of the body has little clearance, I may have to go tekin (for size)with 14-16 guage wires for brushless. my tc spec will not fit but i may be able to fit a reg. sphere with no heatsink and 16g wires thick 12g wires will bind the rear pod
i will post pics when done.

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

I hear what you’re saying; I was thinking the same thing…can a brushless fit? I’m going to try to fit the brushless while the body is still unpainted so I can check the clearance out. While I think brushless would be dialed, I’m ok with running a QCII or III and silver can.

DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

Just wondering what type of spur gears fit the F104? (other than Tamiya ones) And is the standard spur normal 48dp or is it the 0.6 module type?

Thanks in advance.

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

From the pics I'm guessing 0.4-module. Same as all the TRF on-road cars...

BTW: Here another great build thread going on over on Tamiyaclub.com:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=51043

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

What lipos fit? Will the Orion 3200/3400 work with the banana plugs on top?

JayL

maybe having a smaller servo puts less weight over the front, making it twitchy and/or push

Zaurusman

Does it look like this chassis will accept wings for the F103? I have a set of high downforce 103 units I'd like to try out once I can get my hands on a kit.

calicool

The wait begins..just ordered mine with alum motor mount form good old stella models should be here in tuesday or so..It's going to be hard to drive it though because i love my f103 anny so much.

fat500

iTrader: (50)

after tinkering.... I have to go the black can route better fit...can put the body lower and no binding in the rear pod I use yeah racing lipos and they all fit good