New Car Time!
#17

Originally posted by KilRuf
If I were you, I'd just stick with one car and learn to drive it. Not saying you suck or anything. But if you constantly break all the time, you need to stay off the corners and walls and be more consistant. This is what forces new drivers to always switch to different cars because they think their car is too fragile. Of course... if you have alot of Hacks at your track... that doesn't help either...
If I were you, I'd just stick with one car and learn to drive it. Not saying you suck or anything. But if you constantly break all the time, you need to stay off the corners and walls and be more consistant. This is what forces new drivers to always switch to different cars because they think their car is too fragile. Of course... if you have alot of Hacks at your track... that doesn't help either...

#18

Originally posted by jeffreylin
I'd agree with that. I run a Tamiya TB Evo3 Surikarn and everyone will tell you how fragile the front one way is. Well it is and it's not. If you crash a lot, the front one-way gear will wear and strip. If you drive carefully, it will be fine. The point is that all these cars are very good and sturdy enough if you drive carefully. All cars break if you keep crashing.
I'd agree with that. I run a Tamiya TB Evo3 Surikarn and everyone will tell you how fragile the front one way is. Well it is and it's not. If you crash a lot, the front one-way gear will wear and strip. If you drive carefully, it will be fine. The point is that all these cars are very good and sturdy enough if you drive carefully. All cars break if you keep crashing.
berger,ur not serious in dumping the tc3 are ya???
we'll miss u at the thread....
anyways DON'T i repeat DON'T sell off the TC3 just yet.u might regret it ....
so , since u're in UK i'd recommend an Xray ...and since u shouldn't sell the tc3 then get the T1R cos its more affordable...
#19
Tech Addict

Sometimes you just want to change your car...
Berger, I suggest you get the one you prefer and can get parts easily.
Ths SD is supposed to be fragile, but with the graphite parts it's much better. I've hardly broken one arms since september and that was a huge crash. The car also require low maintenance, I've never rebuilt the shocks since I have the car (may) and they just work fine, the car's still as fast.
I would also recommend the X-Ray, parts are easy to get, and out of the box it just works great. Only thing is that if there is one company that makes more options than Yokomo, it's X-Ray, but as long as you don't buy all of them it's allright.
I can't say about the Cuda, I've never had the chance to see one, but it seems reliable. Parts hard to get though.
Berger, I suggest you get the one you prefer and can get parts easily.
Ths SD is supposed to be fragile, but with the graphite parts it's much better. I've hardly broken one arms since september and that was a huge crash. The car also require low maintenance, I've never rebuilt the shocks since I have the car (may) and they just work fine, the car's still as fast.
I would also recommend the X-Ray, parts are easy to get, and out of the box it just works great. Only thing is that if there is one company that makes more options than Yokomo, it's X-Ray, but as long as you don't buy all of them it's allright.
I can't say about the Cuda, I've never had the chance to see one, but it seems reliable. Parts hard to get though.
#20

My drivings pretty good if i say so myself, its not the decent tracks where i have a problem, its the local track is very very small and has wooden boards that are solid and if you touch them its a broken car. Very tight and technical, combine that with people who use your car as the brake and its no fun. In the indoor winter classic sort of semi regional I was 7th out of 60 or so racers in stock going into this Sundays racing, but a poor performance on my behalf, ending up in the B im going to drop a couple of spots. Heres an image of my local track.

Last edited by berger; 12-08-2003 at 09:37 AM.
#21

Originally posted by berger
My drivings pretty good if i say so myself, its not the decent tracks where i have a problem, its the local track is very very small and has wooden boards that are solid and if you touch them its a broken car. Very tight and technical, combine that with people who use your car as the brake and its no fun. In the indoor winter classic i was 7th out of 60 or so racers in stock going into this Sundays racing, but a poor performance on my behalf, ending up in the B im going to drop a couple of spots. Heres an image of my local track.
My drivings pretty good if i say so myself, its not the decent tracks where i have a problem, its the local track is very very small and has wooden boards that are solid and if you touch them its a broken car. Very tight and technical, combine that with people who use your car as the brake and its no fun. In the indoor winter classic i was 7th out of 60 or so racers in stock going into this Sundays racing, but a poor performance on my behalf, ending up in the B im going to drop a couple of spots. Heres an image of my local track.

1/10 is a tad too tight down there....
all the more reason for an Xray!!much more durable!
#22

Yeah, and on friday people were using brushless and 12 singles
The commitee wont listen when i ask for a stock class with rubbers and a 19 class with foams. Racing mardaves is taking off there with quite a lot of racers prefering them due to their price and durability.

#24

The X-Ray is a very nice car and from what I've seen it's durable.
Depending on your model shop though it can still mean mail ordering parts.
If thats the case it's just as easy to get parts for the Cuda, they are available in the UK now.
The Cuda is really one of the strongest cars around, very beefy on all parts, but you'll still break parts occasionaly. Just be sensible and carry a spare pair of suspension arms, a couple sets of hubs and a few of each bevel gear in your pit box.
I think you should go for the car you like the look of out of the two above, they will both be better than most cars at surviving races.
Depending on your model shop though it can still mean mail ordering parts.
If thats the case it's just as easy to get parts for the Cuda, they are available in the UK now.
The Cuda is really one of the strongest cars around, very beefy on all parts, but you'll still break parts occasionaly. Just be sensible and carry a spare pair of suspension arms, a couple sets of hubs and a few of each bevel gear in your pit box.
I think you should go for the car you like the look of out of the two above, they will both be better than most cars at surviving races.
#26

Well, over the last few weeks, I've watched and heard about local racers all but destroying their Yok's. If you want bulletproof, avoid the Yok.
Rob
Rob
#27

Originally posted by Herminator
Berger I think you'll find there is a UK distributer for Cuda parts now
They're just about to open and have Cuda parts in stock at the moment. The website is www.planet-rc.com but it isn't open yet.
Berger I think you'll find there is a UK distributer for Cuda parts now


Sleighty

#28

Boy, that track is small.
I think your decision is shaft or belt. I think shaft is faster especially in stock class but could be more fragile with a one-way in front. I think if you are running mostly mod belts could be just as fast.
I would get the Barracuda R3 if shaft is what you want as I have heard from all that is the sturdiest car out there. I am also curious about the Pro4 but we shall see. For belt I'd get the XRay.
I think your decision is shaft or belt. I think shaft is faster especially in stock class but could be more fragile with a one-way in front. I think if you are running mostly mod belts could be just as fast.
I would get the Barracuda R3 if shaft is what you want as I have heard from all that is the sturdiest car out there. I am also curious about the Pro4 but we shall see. For belt I'd get the XRay.
#29
Tech Addict

Originally posted by losirob
Well, over the last few weeks, I've watched and heard about local racers all but destroying their Yok's. If you want bulletproof, avoid the Yok.
Rob
Well, over the last few weeks, I've watched and heard about local racers all but destroying their Yok's. If you want bulletproof, avoid the Yok.
Rob
Anyway, I'd go for the X-Ray, and mainly for the Raycer, as it will be less sensitive to tweak after a crash (as it's way softer than the Evo 2) and that's also something important when you race in such a track.