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Old 12-08-2003, 02:55 AM   #16
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BTW: go with the X-Ray, if I didn't own my 2 Losi's I would have one!!!!
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
If I were you, I'd just stick with one car and learn to drive it. Not saying you suck or anything. But if you constantly break all the time, you need to stay off the corners and walls and be more consistant. This is what forces new drivers to always switch to different cars because they think their car is too fragile. Of course... if you have alot of Hacks at your track... that doesn't help either...
I'd agree with that. I run a Tamiya TB Evo3 Surikarn and everyone will tell you how fragile the front one way is. Well it is and it's not. If you crash a lot, the front one-way gear will wear and strip. If you drive carefully, it will be fine. The point is that all these cars are very good and sturdy enough if you drive carefully. All cars break if you keep crashing.
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Old 12-08-2003, 07:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
I'd agree with that. I run a Tamiya TB Evo3 Surikarn and everyone will tell you how fragile the front one way is. Well it is and it's not. If you crash a lot, the front one-way gear will wear and strip. If you drive carefully, it will be fine. The point is that all these cars are very good and sturdy enough if you drive carefully. All cars break if you keep crashing.
very well said!
berger,ur not serious in dumping the tc3 are ya???
we'll miss u at the thread....
anyways DON'T i repeat DON'T sell off the TC3 just yet.u might regret it ....
so , since u're in UK i'd recommend an Xray ...and since u shouldn't sell the tc3 then get the T1R cos its more affordable...
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Old 12-08-2003, 08:27 AM   #19
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Sometimes you just want to change your car...

Berger, I suggest you get the one you prefer and can get parts easily.

Ths SD is supposed to be fragile, but with the graphite parts it's much better. I've hardly broken one arms since september and that was a huge crash. The car also require low maintenance, I've never rebuilt the shocks since I have the car (may) and they just work fine, the car's still as fast.

I would also recommend the X-Ray, parts are easy to get, and out of the box it just works great. Only thing is that if there is one company that makes more options than Yokomo, it's X-Ray, but as long as you don't buy all of them it's allright.

I can't say about the Cuda, I've never had the chance to see one, but it seems reliable. Parts hard to get though.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:31 AM   #20
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My drivings pretty good if i say so myself, its not the decent tracks where i have a problem, its the local track is very very small and has wooden boards that are solid and if you touch them its a broken car. Very tight and technical, combine that with people who use your car as the brake and its no fun. In the indoor winter classic sort of semi regional I was 7th out of 60 or so racers in stock going into this Sundays racing, but a poor performance on my behalf, ending up in the B im going to drop a couple of spots. Heres an image of my local track.


Last edited by berger; 12-08-2003 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:35 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by berger
My drivings pretty good if i say so myself, its not the decent tracks where i have a problem, its the local track is very very small and has wooden boards that are solid and if you touch them its a broken car. Very tight and technical, combine that with people who use your car as the brake and its no fun. In the indoor winter classic i was 7th out of 60 or so racers in stock going into this Sundays racing, but a poor performance on my behalf, ending up in the B im going to drop a couple of spots. Heres an image of my local track.

wow,looks like a micro track to me....
1/10 is a tad too tight down there....
all the more reason for an Xray!!much more durable!
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:37 AM   #22
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Yeah, and on friday people were using brushless and 12 singles The commitee wont listen when i ask for a stock class with rubbers and a 19 class with foams. Racing mardaves is taking off there with quite a lot of racers prefering them due to their price and durability.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:40 AM   #23
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my local track is also just as tight,tarmac.i feel ur pains...
so get the Xray!(have i said this already?)
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:58 AM   #24
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The X-Ray is a very nice car and from what I've seen it's durable.
Depending on your model shop though it can still mean mail ordering parts.
If thats the case it's just as easy to get parts for the Cuda, they are available in the UK now.
The Cuda is really one of the strongest cars around, very beefy on all parts, but you'll still break parts occasionaly. Just be sensible and carry a spare pair of suspension arms, a couple sets of hubs and a few of each bevel gear in your pit box.

I think you should go for the car you like the look of out of the two above, they will both be better than most cars at surviving races.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:21 AM   #25
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my vote:

R3!
The new HPI Pro4 is starting to look good as well...
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:41 AM   #26
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Well, over the last few weeks, I've watched and heard about local racers all but destroying their Yok's. If you want bulletproof, avoid the Yok.

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Old 12-08-2003, 11:43 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
Berger I think you'll find there is a UK distributer for Cuda parts now They're just about to open and have Cuda parts in stock at the moment. The website is www.planet-rc.com but it isn't open yet.
Yer i was talkin the guy whos the boss there, and he was talkin about how the R3 wont be out in the UK till mid 04..... just thought u guys might wanna know? actually i was just trying to show how many ppl i know, which isnt many

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Old 12-08-2003, 12:16 PM   #28
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Boy, that track is small.

I think your decision is shaft or belt. I think shaft is faster especially in stock class but could be more fragile with a one-way in front. I think if you are running mostly mod belts could be just as fast.

I would get the Barracuda R3 if shaft is what you want as I have heard from all that is the sturdiest car out there. I am also curious about the Pro4 but we shall see. For belt I'd get the XRay.
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Old 12-08-2003, 02:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by losirob
Well, over the last few weeks, I've watched and heard about local racers all but destroying their Yok's. If you want bulletproof, avoid the Yok.

Rob
The new graphite parts are much stronger than the stock ones and mostly solve the thing, even if you still can break one. But I managed to break a rear arm on my 414, which is mainly impossible to do.

Anyway, I'd go for the X-Ray, and mainly for the Raycer, as it will be less sensitive to tweak after a crash (as it's way softer than the Evo 2) and that's also something important when you race in such a track.
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:29 PM   #30
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Okay, ill wait until mid this month for when Dave gets his R3 and i can get his feedback about it. Then it will be decision time.
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