57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
06-29-2010, 10:15 AM
#4772
For what its worth my problem was that in the middle of a race all the sudden the speedo would decide to drop all the timing. It would keep going, but the boost would just shut itself off. I recalibrated the radio everytime, I even tried the 95% to 100% deal and that acctualy made the problem worse. If you held the trigger long enough the boost would eventualy kick back on (sometimes a lap or two later) and it would keep going in and out the whole race. Battery was never below 7.8v when I put it back on the charger (2s 5200 SMC 40c pack, but an older one I got used)
The only reasonable thing I could think of is that the speed controler was asking more from the battery than the battery was still capable of providing and the voltage the speedo could pull from the battery would maybe at times be less than what the speedo thought it should be. I turned the Lipo Cut-off to the off setting and havn't had an issue since so I imagine that thats exactly what is happening. I dont like running without lipo cut-off because sometimes I like to stay out and play after the races are over for 15 minuetes or more at a time (which the battery will do without droping below the lipo safe voltage) but I suppose I'd rather stay out 8 minuetes and let the speedo run properly than have extra play time and feel better about not damaging my battery.
Just though I would share, I figure I cant be the only person having this issue.
06-29-2010, 10:19 AM
#4773
You asked the question, but have you TRIED IT YET?
"THINKING" what your car "MIGHT" do is not the same as "SEEING" what it does when you do changes to it. Try it out first then tell us what it does so we can adjust accordingly.
06-29-2010, 10:36 AM
#4774
I am no engineer so i couldn't tell you the technical aspects of how it works. As far as your theory of bogging down, i have yet to see this happen.
You asked the question, but have you TRIED IT YET?
"THINKING" what your car "MIGHT" do is not the same as "SEEING" what it does when you do changes to it. Try it out first then tell us what it does so we can adjust accordingly.
You asked the question, but have you TRIED IT YET?
"THINKING" what your car "MIGHT" do is not the same as "SEEING" what it does when you do changes to it. Try it out first then tell us what it does so we can adjust accordingly.
06-29-2010, 10:40 AM
#4775
I am no engineer so i couldn't tell you the technical aspects of how it works. As far as your theory of bogging down, i have yet to see this happen.
You asked the question, but have you TRIED IT YET?
"THINKING" what your car "MIGHT" do is not the same as "SEEING" what it does when you do changes to it. Try it out first then tell us what it does so we can adjust accordingly.
You asked the question, but have you TRIED IT YET?
"THINKING" what your car "MIGHT" do is not the same as "SEEING" what it does when you do changes to it. Try it out first then tell us what it does so we can adjust accordingly.
No need to be a jerk...I think Syndr0me's question is a valid one. I was thinking the same thing when I read your response.
Are you taking your ball and going home now?
06-29-2010, 11:19 AM
#4776
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Been looking for something with a little better feel down low than the Tekin, and decided to give the SP 2.1 a try. It definitely delivered, the way the motor rips out of the turns is phenomenal! The only thing it seems to lack is that rip on the straight that you get with a Tekin. It definitely seems to boost on the straight, just not quite as hard. Any suggestions? I'm running a SPv3 17.5 with an FDR of about 6.4. Settings are as follows:
4/8
9/8
12/7
13/2
14/3
15/2
If I tried to gear up much more, it would get slower and hotter. Timing on the motor is maxed.
Track has about a 95' straight. You can see it here. Layout is different now, but that gives you the gist of it.
4/8
9/8
12/7
13/2
14/3
15/2
If I tried to gear up much more, it would get slower and hotter. Timing on the motor is maxed.
Track has about a 95' straight. You can see it here. Layout is different now, but that gives you the gist of it.
1--1
2--5
3--4
4--9
5--3
6--3
7--2
8--1
9--8
10-2
11-X
12-9
13-1
14-1
15-5
What you are saying is what we noticed right away. We had to lower the boost start RPM and then gear down to make more power. When we geared up with a lower start RPM the car would almost "two-speed" on the straight....there was a big delay until it kicked into the boost. Gearing down helped this right away and the car had more power across the board. This is what a hand full of us in my area have found while testing with the ESC and software.
06-29-2010, 11:56 AM
#4777
I can definitely back up Kevin K's setup here...Rob K gave us the setup and we followed at the Sunday race and it is ROCKET. Several other brands driver was surprised to see that is SPEED PASSION ESC. I have video to prove it but I have to up load it first.
Final drive was 7.8 on me, timing on can is 10*...motor never get above 150 degrees and no soft ending after 6 minutes of hard racing...
Before I was told to use this setup/final drive, I was using 6.5 final drive (with the same ESC setting) and motor was up to 200 degrees and the car is EXTREMELY SLOW compare to TEKIN and LRP.
Final drive was 7.8 on me, timing on can is 10*...motor never get above 150 degrees and no soft ending after 6 minutes of hard racing...
Before I was told to use this setup/final drive, I was using 6.5 final drive (with the same ESC setting) and motor was up to 200 degrees and the car is EXTREMELY SLOW compare to TEKIN and LRP.
06-29-2010, 12:09 PM
#4778
Tech Adept
Just to confirm.
Gearing down = smaller pinion = higher FDR number
Gearing up = bigger pinion = smaller FDR number
Gearing down = smaller pinion = higher FDR number
Gearing up = bigger pinion = smaller FDR number
06-29-2010, 12:14 PM
#4779
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
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06-29-2010, 01:17 PM
#4781
Syndrome....here is the settings I just ran on a carpet track about the same size of the one in the video. My FDR with a 17.5 V3 motor on 10deg motor timing was 7.71 and my motor temp after 6 minutes was 160deg. It was just as fast as anything else there. We have noticed the same thing gearing up doesnt make it any faster just brings in more heat. For what we have seen gearing down helps more.
1--1
2--5
3--4
4--9
5--3
6--3
7--2
8--1
9--8
10-2
11-X
12-9
13-1
14-1
15-5
What you are saying is what we noticed right away. We had to lower the boost start RPM and then gear down to make more power. When we geared up with a lower start RPM the car would almost "two-speed" on the straight....there was a big delay until it kicked into the boost. Gearing down helped this right away and the car had more power across the board. This is what a hand full of us in my area have found while testing with the ESC and software.
1--1
2--5
3--4
4--9
5--3
6--3
7--2
8--1
9--8
10-2
11-X
12-9
13-1
14-1
15-5
What you are saying is what we noticed right away. We had to lower the boost start RPM and then gear down to make more power. When we geared up with a lower start RPM the car would almost "two-speed" on the straight....there was a big delay until it kicked into the boost. Gearing down helped this right away and the car had more power across the board. This is what a hand full of us in my area have found while testing with the ESC and software.
06-30-2010, 08:49 PM
#4783
The default settings seriously work well. Used an the V3 8.5 motor in RB5 SP Kyosho. Pinion -22. Track is small medium bite tight 180 turns. All that was necessary to adjust was the drag Brake, which I used custom 22%. Everything else was default* on the 528 Mod Software. Very Very Smooth !
06-30-2010, 09:09 PM
#4784
Team Turtle was asking for my benifit.
For what its worth my problem was that in the middle of a race all the sudden the speedo would decide to drop all the timing. It would keep going, but the boost would just shut itself off. I recalibrated the radio everytime, I even tried the 95% to 100% deal and that acctualy made the problem worse. If you held the trigger long enough the boost would eventualy kick back on (sometimes a lap or two later) and it would keep going in and out the whole race. Battery was never below 7.8v when I put it back on the charger (2s 5200 SMC 40c pack, but an older one I got used)
The only reasonable thing I could think of is that the speed controler was asking more from the battery than the battery was still capable of providing and the voltage the speedo could pull from the battery would maybe at times be less than what the speedo thought it should be. I turned the Lipo Cut-off to the off setting and havn't had an issue since so I imagine that thats exactly what is happening. I dont like running without lipo cut-off because sometimes I like to stay out and play after the races are over for 15 minuetes or more at a time (which the battery will do without droping below the lipo safe voltage) but I suppose I'd rather stay out 8 minuetes and let the speedo run properly than have extra play time and feel better about not damaging my battery.
Just though I would share, I figure I cant be the only person having this issue.
For what its worth my problem was that in the middle of a race all the sudden the speedo would decide to drop all the timing. It would keep going, but the boost would just shut itself off. I recalibrated the radio everytime, I even tried the 95% to 100% deal and that acctualy made the problem worse. If you held the trigger long enough the boost would eventualy kick back on (sometimes a lap or two later) and it would keep going in and out the whole race. Battery was never below 7.8v when I put it back on the charger (2s 5200 SMC 40c pack, but an older one I got used)
The only reasonable thing I could think of is that the speed controler was asking more from the battery than the battery was still capable of providing and the voltage the speedo could pull from the battery would maybe at times be less than what the speedo thought it should be. I turned the Lipo Cut-off to the off setting and havn't had an issue since so I imagine that thats exactly what is happening. I dont like running without lipo cut-off because sometimes I like to stay out and play after the races are over for 15 minuetes or more at a time (which the battery will do without droping below the lipo safe voltage) but I suppose I'd rather stay out 8 minuetes and let the speedo run properly than have extra play time and feel better about not damaging my battery.
Just though I would share, I figure I cant be the only person having this issue.
06-30-2010, 09:20 PM
#4785
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Tonight, I ran 1 second from TQ , and won 2nd qualifier. 2nd A Main.
The default settings seriously work well. Used an the V3 8.5 motor in RB5 SP Kyosho. Pinion -22. Track is small medium bite tight 180 turns. All that was necessary to adjust was the drag Brake, which I used custom 22%. Everything else was default* on the 528 Mod Software. Very Very Smooth !
The default settings seriously work well. Used an the V3 8.5 motor in RB5 SP Kyosho. Pinion -22. Track is small medium bite tight 180 turns. All that was necessary to adjust was the drag Brake, which I used custom 22%. Everything else was default* on the 528 Mod Software. Very Very Smooth !
I'll probably load the new sw and test a bit. I'm not disappointed with the performance, although now that I have a good setup on my buggy and I can actually drive it, I'd like a bit more punch. Might just fool around with gearing...
Rob...............