onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

Why so far away?
So you can sell a few S/R and CSS first?
An estimated cost of the PRO

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Not really....

PRO is a totally different ESC compare to S and R....100% different. And the key part of the current ESC is not really the ESC itself...it is the SOFTWARE.

Currently testing the new boost modified software for the PRO along with several new hardware design of the PRO.

PRO price should be very similar to the GT2 PRO price...

supackm

wow! thanks a lot

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

Solara, can you answer my question? the Speedpassion site answers are very vague.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

also will any upgraded rotor fit in the v 3.0 1 cell 7.5R?

Taman

iTrader: (67)

Hi has anyone used the Andriod SP app - RC Car A1 HD Android 1.0.3?

It has 2 reviews and they both arnt good so I'm wondering if it's improved, pity it isn't free

tomicamilleri

hey guys

about 4 weeks ago I blew my V3.0 motor then I brought a new v3.0 MMM and parts to fix the original v3.0

2weeks ago I had a big race meet and had the v3.0 MMM in and I had only ran it on testing. after 2 laps of the second race it blew the motor! temped it after and it was only 20degrees on the can, it wasn't even hot!
so I put the v3.0 motor that I fix in and completed the race meet

today (2 weeks after I blew the MMM)
first race of the day put my car on the track with the fixed up motor in it and after 3 laps it blew!
it was 30degrees!


so I blew one motor twice and the MMM once.
I'm not running much timing and every time I finish a race I temp the motor and its about 60-70 degrees

my motor class is 21.5turn

I'm running the speed passion GT2.1 Prostock esc

people in my local area have been saying speed passion is crap because they always blow like mine did
is this true?

and I was wondering if someone can tell me what I should do so I stop blowing motors



thanks tom.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

@ Solara, my second run in stock, and now SP GT2.0 Pro, 528 software, and SP V3 17.5 boosted , now has the race time record. the record was set about same time last year, and about 3 motors to do it. i used the same motor from last time, and all day and another 5 packs after racing. and its just steady at 70C.
todays ambient temp was 39 C in the shade. track temp was up there when i measured it one time was 61C. i think some one else ran the settings i posted before when you asked , cause they were tired of blowing motors, and Dave was really pleased to see his temps were stable and he ran all day with the same motor this time. hehe. so SP has our track record now in stock class. by the way , 2 qualies 3 finals, and apart from first qualy, which was 20 laps in 6:12. every run after that was below the 6:06 which was a first place pace at the Nationals late last year. my time at the end, 20 laps 6:02.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

it would be nice to post your settings, gearing and track layout, wether it be tight technical track or more open track faster flowing.

changing from the V3 to the MMM you cant run the same settings and expect things to be the same. the MMM has more motor timing in the sensor board. you need to account for this in your settings and gearing. i dont know why you blew motors at those temps, but holding max RPM for too long on a straight can also do this, or also loading up the motor too much, which would see more temp than this. are you running a fan and heatsink setup on the motor as well ? some times a heatsink can block the vent holes in a motor and not allow it to vent properly so the heat builds up inside, rather than out side.

we have had a few Motors cook of late, but its been a variety of motors with the 323 stock software, 2 x LRP, 2 x SP one MMM one V3. and 2 other D3 motors. if your boost timing Accel is set too low i have found anything under 350 and your playing with Smoke on a larger track, we have found Stock 528 to be more stable with temps than the 323. but i dont know if on a smaller track the 528 is good enough ?

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

each colour is a different size. Orange ring is 13mm Rotor, Green is 12.8, and red is 12.5 (std )
if you want more punch from your motor, then either Green or Orange is the go. i have tried Orange in a 4T, and to say the least, it made it so dam punchy it was nearly undrivable. i would suggest the green rotor, as it will be one step up from std Red 12.5mm. the rotors are all the same for the V3, 1 Cell, and MMM. they all fit. as long as you get the one suggested for your Wind of motor. hope this explains it more.

Nilks

So I tried all the suggestions this weekend. By setting reverse force (#6) at 100%, og calibrating with brake set on 100 on the transmitter, and then bumping it to 160, helped a bit. But no where near enough for our track.

On our small and twisty track, we need to tap the brakes hard before going into the corner, and the Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro doesn't have enough brakes for that. Atleast not in 17.5T blinky, running a LRP X12 geared at 4.0 with 4-dot timing insert.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

It does. It says the red is an upgrade.... is it the standard rotor? Why would they sell an "upgrade" that is the same as a standard motor? also, the Green is made for off road" so its made to handle the heat and stress of low traction?-I also drift.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

there are 2 red rotors, one std, one sintered, if you want more bottom end like you asked , then going up in size is the best way.

defcone

iTrader: (15)

both are sintered, the silver ones have more torque.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

well all the new range of rotors they say are changing colours. so now there all silver and there are 2 red ones ? i see now why silver is confused. i was looking at an older PDF cat. oh well.