radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

I have a speed passion 10.5R motor and wanted to know how to set it to zero timing. Do i just move the sensor plug to zero?

I'm finding reverse is a lot faster than forward and i've tried reversing the throttle channel and calibrating, nothing. So now i'm thinking the timing might be retarded at zero mark on the motor can.

Thanks

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Using the blue programmer box check to see what profile you are running. If you are using Drift, Mod0, or Stock1 you can set the running mode to "Forward/Reverse with Brake"

Usually if you motor/car is running faster when in reversed your wiring is wrong on the motor side. It might be the A and C wires reversed on the motor.

radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

It's a sensored motor. Wouldn't the esc fry up If the wires werent respective?

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

If the A and C wires that are connected to the motor are reversed it could run backwards. Agian I would double check all your wiring and make sure you calibrate your TX to the ESC. This way you know you are getting full throttle, neutral, and brakes.

radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

A is going to A on the motor, B is going to B on the motor, and C is going to C on the motor.

Are you saying that the endbell could possibly be rotated 180 degrees? How do i check the correct orientation if it was ever pulled apart and reassembled incorrectly?

Please advise.

Thanks

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

You can compare your motor to the manufacturers images. The way the SP motors are designed, I would find it hard to believe the sensor board was accidentally installed 180 deg off. There could be something in the settings of your radio or ESC causing it to run slow in the forward direction. There is also the possibility that the sensor cable or board is bad causing forward to be slow WRT reverse. Have you tried a different motor on this ESC?

radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

I have not but I'm going to that should clear up some confusion here. I did compare pictures with the end wll position and they were spot on.

The timing on the can ranges from 0 to 10. If the timing is set to 0, is that retarding the timing which would explain the speed difference? I wanted to move the timing to 5 degrees and compare the motor speeds

radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

Ok I turned up the timing and forward is much better now. I'm pretty sure the timing was retarded as the hardness plus was moved all the way to the left where I thought it was zero but "0" should line up with the corner of the plug (almost in the middle). Runs much better and cooler

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Excellent. What class are you running?

radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

2wd buggy. It has a lot of pep and i like it a lot.

Can the timing in fact be retarded? or is zero degrees the lower bound? I know that these cans dont come shipped with the sensor plug shifted all the way to the left and are somewhere in the middle. Please confirm so i know i'm not crazy haha. If the can is in fact above zero, then my problem still exists. haha

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

You can't really go into a negative or retarded timing with the motors. In 2WD 17.5 and the V3 or V3 MMM motor the most common setup was the red board all the way to the right or the green board to the left or middle.

The new V4 17.5 is a beast and guys are running them at about 30deg or more of timing depending on the track.

Henkka77

Yes, i have downloaded the software and i have drift software installed. Theres nowhere to change anything where says "boost", etc.
This is really irritating as it makes drifting impossible with this stupid boost..

TTBoy77

iTrader: (1)

I have a blue reventon pro 1.1 that has recently developed an issue. It is in my t4.2 stadium truck. Been running it with a new SP 10.5t motor. Been working well then it happened. Got hit hard by a fellow driver and the throttle input quit. Steering worked fine. Checked all wiring and thought I had a bullet connector loose (I switch motors a lot so to keep it easy, I use bullets between motor and ESC). Tuned back on and all fine. Then in the second qualifier, same result after a crash. This time all wiring appears to be fine. If I turn the ESC off, then back on, all works fine. Any ideas?

biscuit581

iTrader: (4)

may have a loose wire somewhere. it isnt broken id send it in to have them take a look at it im sure its something minor.

radioctrlhead

iTrader: (15)

agreed with buscuit.

it's a sensor wire. get it replaced. I had the same issue with mine and after replacing it it never spazzed out after a crash. I think what happened was the wire wiggled loose and had to reconfirm the position which takes a second or so.