Dang Bro....You up awful early this morning! I need a couple of things. I'll either call you and or just email you the items needed. Thanks again for the help!

Chad

Hi, Adam

should be very different GT2.0Pro is 0.0003ohm resistance 200 to 800A
and GT2.0LPF is 0.0006ohm resistance 80 to 440A

that's half of it, but with 40s better get LCD,

running 17.5/13.5/10.5 is not the only Speedpassion GT2.0 LPF capable of
GT2.0 LPF can run 3.5T on 4cells and 4.0T on 5 cells

and you know that SPGT 2.0LPF black carbon is 440A
then the SPGT 2.0LPF Blue Star Edition is mention 800A
http://www.speedpassion.net/GT2.0LPF BlueStar.jpg

So Speed passion must make explanation on this.


IS AMTS work's automatically move to maximum on full throotle ?
it's like teamwave RB does ?


the same....

Try advancing the timing on the motor and gearing down to 5.5-6.0.

irgo:
"and you know that SPGT 2.0LPF black carbon is 440A
then the SPGT 2.0LPF Blue Star Edition is mention 800A"

This is nothing more than a typing error. both are exactly the same, except for the color. Thanks for catching that, we'll get it corrected soon.

"IS AMTS work's automatically move to maximum on full throotle ?"

For competitive advantage purposes, we don't publicly explain what the speedo software/hardware is doing to achieve higher top speeds.

Hey all,

Had my first run out with the SP gear last week. Running 10.5 indoors on the rug. Following the advice on here, loaded up the 312 software, and maxed out the timining and DRRS to 8. Geared it initally at 105/37 (5.83 FDR), and put it on the track. Now before I go any further, I should point out I was also trying out a) a newly built car and b) lighter weight by running at 1350g (and I still had to add lead!).

To cut a long story short, car was quite undergeared, and ended up on a 105/40 combo, and it was much better. Gave a little away in top end, but was soo smooth to drive. I bumped the DRRS up to 9 as well, given that after five mins the motor was coming off at only 43°C (it had been sub 40 on the lower gearing!), even at 5.4fdr :D
I'm pretty sure I can solve the top end issue, either by more gearing (another tooth should be enough), or by trying advancing the timing on the motor.
I tried it on the desk, and there's a noticeable increase in revs when moving the motor timing poisition.

Also, given that I'm not using the fan, I thought it an idea to check the speedo temp after a run... mildly tepied i think would be a good description :p

So far, very impressed. It's certainly comparable to what I was running last year (the Wave stuff), and looking forward to doing a bit of a back to back against the two when I'm a meeting with more time.

Oh, and for thoose wondering... lower weight makes the car really good to drive.. and it was pretty easy to get the car balanced by placing the cells out over the chassis.

Anyway, to sign off, quick pic of the install, now it's properly blacked out, and I've made up a shorter reciever wire (half the size of the shortest one form the box :p). Used 14awg for the motor wires, and 12awg for the battery. Have to see I'm quite happy with how it's come out, the new motor helps especially in my eyes... the lowline look is ace :sneaky:

Cheers
Ed

Hi Guys, I need advice on gearing and timing of a 13.5 3.0 motor. We chose it as the Stock legal motor this year in our racing series. The track will be a huge carpet (130ft x 65ft) and we will run rubber tires. I run the LRP Sphere Competition ESC so I can't adjust timing on that (I guess).

I attached the track layout of the first race.

Hi does anybody know what shops have the v3 4.5 motors in stock. cheers

what position for the esc do u guys think is the best for a cyclone tc with a novak motor so I wont have that much stress on the wires

should I rotate the esc...if so which direction

http://i38.tinypic.com/wrgegg.jpg

and where do I solder the capacitator on the esc? which slot?

I would turn the wires into the chasis center. Like in my picture below. This on a Corally RDX chasis. Disregard where the power switch is. I moved in to in between the esc and the servo since this pic was taken. You can join the capacitor with the positive and negative lines when you solder. I soldered at the bottom of the positive and negative leads under the circuit boards.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/DSC01917.jpg

pos/neg of the cap solder to the pos/neg of the battery leads on the esc

.

Ok I will show u guys when Im done soldering

thanks for the info!

heres mine still need to make all black wires and shorter

what do you mean with V2 motor? is that "ultra sportsman 11.5R"?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bru...5-p-25889.html
because i never see 11.5R competition 2.0 series. or do i miss something?
(i'm new to SP product, just got 11.5R v3) :smile: