R/C Tech Forums - The Speed Passion Thread

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- - The Speed Passion Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/288105-speed-passion-thread.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwiksi (Post 7145021)

So is the V2.1 Prostock avail. yet?

yes...it's on on market since February....

speed passion with the 230, in my xxx with a 5.5 I blew the motor instantly. The magnet is in pieces!!! LOL ill put the tekin on the shelf for a while and have some fun!

Can someone recomend some setting for me.

tc5F
13.5
GEARS 50/112
sp 2.0 230 softwear

I DONT WANNA BLOW THIS MOTOR ALSO, LOLOLOL BUT IF I DO ITLL BE FUN

Quote:

Originally Posted by racingnazy (Post 7146455)

50??????

dude...you are running a 5.5...it is NOT recommended to run mod with the 230....:eek::flaming::eek:

Id like to say THANKS for the beta. All this pressure from drivers to get to a tekin speed must be driving you crazy! I know its a beta and you guys will work hard in the future to keep us going. Again, thanks.

The money ive invested in speed passion is worth it..
Now to get the R8 going good. I think my mesh was to tight before.

Also is there a link to buy a speed passion Carbon Pit mat. I tried to get one in locally but my attemps failed.

Is there a link to read up on what 12, 13, 14, 15 are??

thanks guys

Quote:

Originally Posted by racingnazy (Post 7146615)

Here ya go RN (remember, this new software is recommend for 10.5T and higher turn motors):

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer (Post 7127546)

New settings added:

12) Supercharger Boost Level: This sets the overall supercharger power level. High levels may increase speed, but always at the expense of motor heat.

13) Supercharger RPM Delay: This controls when the supercharger settings engage. When the motor RPM reaches this setting, the ESC will engage the supercharger.

14) Supercharger Full Throttle Delay: This setting delays the application of the supercharger function until after a set time has been reached while holding FULL Throttle.

15) Supercharger Punch: This setting controls timing advance at RPMs below the Start RPM setting. Lower settings decrease motor temps, and higher settings increase punch and motor temps. (note: low punch settings are high programming value #s, and high punch settings are low programming value #s)

Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6

A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust #13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it just barely doesn’t top out.

B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until it’s making the kick come in later than it was before – then back it down one value.

C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got enough rip already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!

D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:

Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get faster than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back down the boost to the next lower setting.

2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and overheat quickly – back the punch down.

3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a little kick where you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it. For almost ALL tracks however - just have the boost engage on the straight.

IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly translate into faster lap times.

When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's better or worse!
.
.

Quote:

Originally Posted by altreyx (Post 7145574)

Hello,
I tryed during my freetime to "build" a PDF file where is possible share the setups that we use on our speedcontrollers.
Is the first time that i try something like that, i hope you like it.
Thank you @Solara / AGNO for their help.

Andrea

Link for to download it: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=0HVEPYVL

that is a awesome tool that i will use alot and it will help us send feedback to the powers above

After downloading the new software and loading it into the ESC, the Cop and I headed out for some racing last Saturday at Speedworld. First impression is that the new software is a BIG improvement over the earlier stuff. Much more rip, mostly at the low to mid levels (like the infield). Just like with the Tekin, you have to be willing to change things and make adjustments one at a time and slowly keeping your temp gun handy to check motor temps. Also, you can't change too many things at once or you can't figure out what did what. Most important: DO NOT just use someone else's settings and plug them into your controller and expect it to work perfectly. The settings for a big outdoor track will kill ANY speed control on a tight small carpet track. Be smart and take your time and watch your motor temp! That said, here's what we ended up with:

Running a Schumacher MI4lp outdoors on a big asphalt track (Speedworld in Roseville, CA) on Solarex premounts. This track has a LONG straight but had a great combination of tight turns as well as longer sweeping corners. Started with a 7.0 final but ended up with a 6.2ish.

1-1
2-3
3-4
4-8
5-3
6-1
7-2
8-2
9-8
10-1
11-1
12-7
13-8
14-4
15-3

There are one or two settings that had I noticed I would have changed, but didn't until I was taking the readings out tonight. Most notably is 7-2 (normally I always run 7-1). I'm not saying that this is a great setup, or even a good setup for you, it was just what we ended up running. I would have made more changes and tweaks if I had more time to do so. As it was, I was learning things about the software every trip out on the track, but didn't get nearly enough runs to learn all of what I wanted to know. One big problem was the first 4-5 runs had the car really fast on the infield, but a total DOG on the straight...I mean the car went SLOWER on the straight than on the infield (like 1/2 throttle). No change after replacing the motor and the ESC (both had worked fine previously), so we looked at what we didn't change and found a broken wire on the sensor harness (doh!). Wish I had some more cool weather tires to try as the Solarex tires were old and tired. Still, the speed we greatly improved and had a ton of rip out of the corners. Top speed was still a bit slower than the Tekins, but the straight was only about 3-4 seconds of the 19-20 second lap times...and I suspect that will be taken care of in next to no time now that Speedpassion knows what to adjust. Next weekend we're hoping to be able to spend a day just testing to get more precise information about what the settings do and the effect they have on lap times. Thanks (as always) to the Cop for everything he does (he does most of the work while I usually just drive the car).

Quote:

Originally Posted by racingnazy (Post 7146455)

Someone send him a rotor and next time Youtube it.

Your crazy. 5.5 and supercharged!!!

I'll add that to my list of not to do's. :lol::lol::lol:

Did you not read the recommendations or just didn't care?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boz (Post 7146781)

I think he is a good sport about it...at least now he knows not to use a mod...
Mods are defined as 8.5 or lower.
Stocks are 9.5, 10.5,11.5,12.5,13.5 and 21.5.

Quote:

Originally Posted by irgo (Post 7144197)

rutter check again There is no V1.10_090205_T but there is V1.10_090205g_T

yer thats what i meant, still having no luck. Might just be the esc as every other one i try is working.

Tested the new software last night in 10.5 TC and it's a big improvement over 110 and 107. The car had good punch and excellent top end but it seemed to have a bit of a flat spot in-between so I think I need to drop the point where the supercharger kicks in.

These were my main settings
9-4
12-6
13-6
14-5
15-5

Motor was an SP ultrasportsman 10.5
FDR 6.8
Motor temp 58 deg C

Wow thats what i wanted to see and hear!! This speed control has came alive. Thanks to Shawn Palmer and everyone else involved in the software. It looked like the wheels were going to fly off and it spit one of the motor screws out lol :sneaky: little locktite maybe I put it on the motor dyno and holy the numbers were crazy! max rpm doubled. And im glad i didnt get a Tekin i knew Speed passion would come through.

Thanks Again Eli Franklin

Hey Shawn and Adam, would it be alright if I gave the software to some of my hong kong brethren?

Speedpassion Setup Sheetd Pdf

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7145574-post3284.html

I changed something on that file, now is possible save the file. Before was only possible ceck and print the setup used.
Thank you

Hey Altryex, your version makes my excel version look like crap.:flaming:

Nice work. I like it. I've sent mine to the Recycle Bin. :rolleyes: