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today I felt I was a little down on punch, so i changed from a 7.5 to a 6.5 hardware setting, yep, that did the trick.
sorry:D couldn't help it,:p:D |
Originally Posted by Stein Tumert
(Post 6894544)
Which motor is that?
120 F is very cool... Temp will likely be higher with the 107 in any case. You can try 7.1, but I think you will go back to more teeth. 107 has more "punch", test it out...some people run faster laptimes with the 110 You can also run the motor warmer without problems... ... Yeah, not real hot, with GT1, 1.1, and box stock 2.0 I’ve seemed to get better or equal 17.5 laps a little cooler than say 10.5. Big truck tires, jumps??, I’m not sure. Ended up trying ~6.8 with default DRRS 7 and ATMS 22.5, and it was very promising indeed. A tabletop after a hairpin was giving me problems with either out of the box or 110 cranked, and various gearing. But with 107 I made it with ease, even if I got a little squirrelly in the corner. Yeah! Seemed I was a lot closer to the other guys down the 100+’ straight too. Double yeah! My cheapo temp reader didn’t seem to be giving me readings I could trust, the can seemed a little hotter, but it didn’t seem to fade. Since it was running fairly good I just left it and worked on my wheeling and enjoying the day. (should of stuck to 1 class lol) Gonna resolve the gun issue and try more settings next time. |
Originally Posted by TEM
(Post 6897098)
Assuming I have not reset the radio, Neutral was still "neutral". My top end wasn't as high as it should have been, but even if full trigger only got registered as 80%, I shouldn't have as little punch as I had gotten. If I got less than full brake available, it would explain having weak brakes though. I know the drag brake works as it should when I dialed in more drag brake, it was evident on the track. The closest to normal I got with the LRP, I temped it 158 degrees. I didn't even bother temping the V3 while I had gone through FDR from 5.1 down to 4.3, changing between pinons and spurs to find a sweet spot. I think that's a reasonable range to go through. I didn't temp that motor, no point. I also varied punch from recommended * and incrementally to full. No pleasant surprises. I tried timing both lower and higher than the recommended * and again, no pleasant surprises. The V3 motor had it's timing set to the 10degree side the whole time. My next day on the track is saturday, if I get lucky, possibly wednesday. I'll keep hacking at it and report back. If anyone has any suggestions, please post!
Just my Tuppence. |
Originally Posted by abailey21
(Post 6896615)
Alright dude, lets see if I can help
1. Reset the radio to esc EVERY time you change s/w, set you epa's to 100%, after you calibrate max them all out. 2. what kind of temps were you seeing? 3. if the temps are low max out the timing and DRRS, and see where you are please let me know where your at after that dude On point 1, are you saying to max out the EPA on the Tx after resetting the ESC @ 100% EPA; i.e. if Tx goes to 120%, set to this? I've been finding with 110 software that I can't get the 17.5 above 130 deg F after 7 minutes no matter the FDR with everything maxed out, I suppose this is not such a bad thing. Will be trying V3 17.5 next weekend and possibly 107 software also, interested to see the difference. Do you suggest I max out the motor timing for both programs? |
When should I run 107? When should I use 110? 110 major courses on the 107 at the small tracks? i run stock!
Or how does it work? How are the settings for the engine be? -10 Or +10? I'm using 17.5 T v. 3.0 |
Originally Posted by cherry2blost
(Post 6898558)
Ummm sorry if I am missing the point here but you have done all these things but NOT the most important thing that you have been advised. RESET THE RADIO !!! After every SOFTWARE UPDATE . If you don't do this then you will NEVER gets positive results, it takes 10 seconds to do, why so unhappy to do so?
Just my Tuppence. I think you mis-understood my point. I was totally unaware I had to reset the radio the whole time I was at the track. AFTER I got home and poked around the internet, I realized I am suppose to do that when I update the software. But I'm also trying to think logically how much of a difference it would have been if I didn't reset my radio. The point in resetting the radio is to establish 3 points of reference for the ESC; neutral point, full throttle and full brakes. The point I'm making is my neutral point is fine, but even if my full throttle doesn't get registered as full throttle to the ESC, I should still have more punch. Anyways, forget about it. I'll just wait till I get to go to the track again and try this again with the radio re-set and see what happens. |
Originally Posted by TEM
(Post 6899242)
I think you mis-understood my point. I was totally unaware I had to reset the radio the whole time I was at the track. AFTER I got home and poked around the internet, I realized I am suppose to do that when I update the software.
But I'm also trying to think logically how much of a difference it would have been if I didn't reset my radio. The point in resetting the radio is to establish 3 points of reference for the ESC; neutral point, full throttle and full brakes. The point I'm making is my neutral point is fine, but even if my full throttle doesn't get registered as full throttle to the ESC, I should still have more punch. Anyways, forget about it. I'll just wait till I get to go to the track again and try this again with the radio re-set and see what happens. Good luck with the speedo, all I can say is 110 gives mountains of power, probably not yet up with the SPX's and Tekins, but remember that you're not buying a new speedo more getting a 'free' upgrade on an existing investment. I think the only way to keep up with the SPX's etc is to actually buy one but I for one refuse to keep buying Speedo's and I would have thought that would account for most people out there. Also remember to advance the timing on the Motor to max and adjust the gearing upwards accordingly, about 5 to 7 teeth seems the sweet spot. |
Originally Posted by TEM
(Post 6899242)
I think you mis-understood my point. I was totally unaware I had to reset the radio the whole time I was at the track. AFTER I got home and poked around the internet, I realized I am suppose to do that when I update the software.
But I'm also trying to think logically how much of a difference it would have been if I didn't reset my radio. The point in resetting the radio is to establish 3 points of reference for the ESC; neutral point, full throttle and full brakes. The point I'm making is my neutral point is fine, but even if my full throttle doesn't get registered as full throttle to the ESC, I should still have more punch. Anyways, forget about it. I'll just wait till I get to go to the track again and try this again with the radio re-set and see what happens. He cooked 2 motors due to running to long gearing and not recalibrating the esc after making changes. Recalibrating is part of my routine as it makes a huge difference and i learnt this lesson the hard way on both my SP and Tekin esc's |
Pretty successful day for me today. Very happy with how the car ended up, had plenty of power.
Played with the speedo all day (but kept with the 107 software). Started on DDRS #7 but changed down to #6 and it seemed to make the car much more drivable and maintain both acceleration and top end. Anyway, in case you're interested here's where I ended up: Track - Carpet, 32 x 16m (full length straight) Motor - SP V3 13.5 DDRS #6 Timing - 26.25 Motor Timing - set at approx 8 deg by markings Geared at 5.25 Motor came off at a sensible temperature, could perhaps have geared up another tooth (so to 5.1ish) or taken the motor timing up a little more. |
Hey
Im thinking of buying a Speed Passion GT2.0 PRO ESC and V3.0 Motors. But I am confused about it all, can i install all the updates and diffrent settings on my PC out of the box? or does something have to be bought? What is all the diffrent numbers of updates? How do you know which update for which track, motor, gearing etc. I run 10.5 Lipo and 6.5 Lipo. Basically I need everything diffrent about speed passion explained to me really haha. Help would be much appreciated :) |
you can go on line right now and download software, when you order your gt2 also order the programing box, it is different then the one that will come with the esc. then you will be good to go.
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Originally Posted by rc-racer-kirby
(Post 6900388)
Hey
Im thinking of buying a Speed Passion GT2.0 PRO ESC and V3.0 Motors. But I am confused about it all, can i install all the updates and diffrent settings on my PC out of the box? or does something have to be bought? What is all the diffrent numbers of updates? How do you know which update for which track, motor, gearing etc. I run 10.5 Lipo and 6.5 Lipo. Basically I need everything diffrent about speed passion explained to me really haha. Help would be much appreciated :) * If you are planing to run Stock classes (stock 17.5R or super stock 10.5R) then you need to update the software to stock software. You need to download software V1.32 but you also need LCD Program Card to be able to do so. * Recommended gearings table comes inside the motor box. |
Well, I also had a pleasing day at the track (in terms of power at least :rolleyes:).
Turns out I had been gearing way too low, stuck the car on 5:1 overall with the 13.5 and the car came alive. Had the match of everything else at the track on the straight and long sweeper, no worries in the tight infield either. Setup for a 32x16m carpet track: Software: 107 Settings: As default expect 25% drag brake and initial brake at drag brake. Motor: SP v3 13.5 at factory timing Ratio: 5.03:1 I also felt that the DRRS at 8 was almost too punchy, thought about going down to 7 but as the grip increased the punch was more controllable. Motor temps (according to my finger) were close to the limit, don't think I would have gone any higher. Very pleased with this package now! |
Originally Posted by razzor
(Post 6900039)
I helped out a guy at our regionals today with the same issue.
He cooked 2 motors due to running to long gearing and not recalibrating the esc after making changes. Recalibrating is part of my routine as it makes a huge difference and i learnt this lesson the hard way on both my SP and Tekin esc's I was geared at around 4.3 for it to get "some" speed. So I'm assuming that's totally wrong now? I see "Big Brother" is using a 5.25 FDR for V3 13.5 Is that what everyone else is running at? |
when you buy the speedo does come with the programming card ? I need a new speedo and SP is on my top list.
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