Originally Posted by tfrahm

(Please pardon some "offroad" questions, but this is THE thread for Speed Passion products, so..?)

I've been running a V2/UltraSportsman 13.5 in my XXX-CR buggy, geared 28:82 with great success. (Racing in MOD 2wd Buggy on a 450'/lap indoor offroad track.)

I now have a V3 13.5, and that is where the questions come in...

I notice the V3 has almost zero endplay -- in fact, at first I thought it was zero, but there is tiny amount (I can feel it, but it's not visible). I seem to recall seeing some posts about shimming the rotor to achieve 0.05" endplay, but that wasn't from an official source..? What is the official recomendation? (leave it as is, re-shim..?)

Also -- the adjustable timing is great, but the documentation is lacking in terms of defining the real vs indicated timing. One post in this thread seemed to imply that the zero mark is truly zero timing, and the 10 degree mark is truly 10 degrees. However, another post said that measurements indicated that the factory setting (roughly 5degrees on the endbell) is actually 30 degrees of timing...??? (The V2 was fixed at about 10-12 degrees)... I don't want to "assume" anything, as a bad guess on timing could let the magic factory smoke out...?

Assuming for the sake of argument that I start with the factory timing, and retain the current GT 2.0 LPF settings (which are working well for me offroad), what gearing change would be recommended? (Up 'x' teeth on the pinion, down 'x' teeth, or stay the same to start..?)

Thanks in advance...

Originally Posted by maximebeauvais

I have the speedpassion 1.1 for over 2 years. I also have the programmer that come with it.

I'm planning to buy the LPF and I will like to know if it come with a programmer and if not, could I use the one that I use with my 1.1 esc.

Originally Posted by maximebeauvais

I have the speedpassion 1.1 for over 2 years. I also have the programmer that come with it.

I'm planning to buy the LPF and I will like to know if it come with a programmer and if not, could I use the one that I use with my 1.1 esc.

Originally Posted by maximebeauvais

thanks guy for the quick reply.

yes, I have my eye on the new 2.0 LPF

AND

I also have my eye on the mamba max pro.

both are in the same price range.

I'm just not sure which one to take LOL

Originally Posted by Dave H

Hey guys, running offroad truck with a 17.5. Was using 6~6.4 FDR with a stock GT2 with good results for quite a while.

Tried 110 software/firmware for a couple days with 6.4~6.6, DRRS and ATMS cranked, temps were 120~130F.

Got 107 on for tomorrow, dropped DRRS 2 and ATMS 1 step.… Does 7.1 seem low enough to start?

Thanks again in advance! Great thread.

Originally Posted by TEM

I was out today for the FIRST time with my new GT 2.0 pro and I need some major help! It's indoor carpet touring car, rubber tires. Started off with the older LRP 13.5. No matter what I did with gearing and settings on both 1107 and 1110, I was SLOW, the car had lacked punch, lacked top speed AND lacked brakes. 2.5 seconds per lap behind everyone else (they are running mid to high 10's at the current track layout). My team mate handed me a Speed Passion V3 13.5 and told me to run it. I tried everything from FDR of 5.1 down to 4.3 and I'm still getting spanked by their 17.5's (they run tekin's and even LRP esc was killing me!). At the lower FDR (4.3 range) the best I can do is about 1.5 seconds behind, it felt faster and punchier but still NOT EVEN CLOSE. I'm running really good batteries and everything else so my problem is down to ESC setup and FDR. The only thing I just realized is I did NOT re-set my radio to the ESC (neutral, full on, full brake) between changing software 1110 and 1107. How does that affect things realistically? Is that what is causing me grief? Whats the recommended FDR range for the V3.0? And software settings if not the stock * ones?