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Old 05-14-2011, 04:09 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by smariocippo View Post
How do you do to obtain a 239 mm wheelbase, i'm looking for a chassis for my cox body with 4WD.

Thank you for helping
Download the manual from 3racing & have a look.

I sold mine, I now wish I kept it.
Good points:great chassis, strong gear diffs, TT01 parts are strong and cheap. Handles really well . No strange issues to try & sort out.
The only RC car I actually enjoyed building.

Bad points: all the 3racing suspension parts, the arms , turnbuckles etc
the 3racing dogbones & centreshaft are rubbish.
Far too many of the 3racing parts were rubbish that needed upgrading.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:40 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by smariocippo View Post
How do you do to obtain a 239 mm wheelbase, i'm looking for a chassis for my cox body with 4WD.

Thank you for helping
Here how I do, I cut both the upper & lower suspension arm holder half way on the front part of the gear box. And put spacer on the the other side of the Pin so that the suspension arm can shift all the way to the back. that way you can extend the wheelbase to the Max
Attached Thumbnails
M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-5-27-2011-9-36-53-pm.jpg   M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-5-27-2011-9-41-44-pm.jpg   M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-5-27-2011-9-43-17-pm.jpg   M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-5-27-2011-9-44-30-pm.jpg  
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #93
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Default 3Racing TT-01 M Conversion Kit Review

Okay, boys and girls, I recently picked up a 3Racing TT-01 M Conversion kit. Now, keep in mind, I’ve only driven the car for a total of 25 minutes so far, so this review will NOT be on the details of driving it and working on it. This review is mostly for the assembly of the kit. I will note some of the problem areas I came across while building this kit. I will also have a listing of the TT-01 parts you will need, in addition to the kit, along with the prices, to complete this car.

First off, the instructions suck! I wasn’t expecting much considering this kit is made in China and I figured some items would get lost in translation and well, I wasn’t wrong. Do NOT expect Tamiya quality instructions here folks! There are NO written instructions included in the manual. There are listings of parts needed for a particular step, the bags you get the parts from and sometimes, a listing of the TT-01 parts needed, which, if it’s there, is usually incomplete. This is why I went to great lengths to make up the list of parts needed, the bags they come in, the price for each and yes, even the parts you will actually use from each bag.

While building the kit, in several places, there are measurements in the manual. These measurements are wrong!! They will give you something to start from, but don’t spend too much time getting them close as you will only change them once you get the kit together. The distance between the ball cups on the steering links and the amount the droop screws stick out of the bottom of the arms are two of the areas that I’m referring to. If I remember right, they don’t even give you a distance to set the camber links to, front and back, so when you get the car together, they will be WAY off!

The last thing of note from the manual is you can use the separate diff cover and shock towers from the TT-01E or the combined diff cover/shock tower from the original TT-01. They don’t state this in the manual, but I used the original TT-01 parts without issue. The manual shows to use the separate parts from the TT-01E though and those are the parts I will list later in this review.

Parts List

(Part description, Tamiya part number, parts used from bag & cost)

Screw Bag A (MA7, MA11, MA8, MA13, MA14 & MA15) - $10
Screw Bag B (MA8, MA13, MA14, MA15 & MB2) - $9
Screw Bag C (MA11 & MC9) - $4
Ball Bearing Set (TAM53497) (12 – 11x5x4 & 4 – 12x8x3.5) - $18.39
Gear Bag (TAM51004) (GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4 & GB5) - $5.09
A Parts (TAM51318) (A9, A10, A6, A3, A1, & A7) - $3.99
P Parts (TAM51005) (P7, P3, P1, P2, P4 & P5) - $3.39
Shaft Bag (TAM51006) (C5, C4, C2 & C3) - $6.59

(2) M3x6 Cap Head Screws (Motor)
(4) M3x8 Flat Head Screws (Shock Towers)
(2) M3x16 Button Head Screws (Shock Towers)
(4) M3x23 Button Head Screws (Shock Towers)
(4) M3x8 Button Head Screws (Kingpins)

Note: The screws for the shock towers may change depending on which diff covers/shock towers you use.

Additional Parts Needed to Complete

Motor
ESC
Pinion gear & screw
Body
Antenna Tube
Tires
Foam Inserts
Steering Servo
Radio/Receiver
Battery Pack
Shocks (with springs and mounting screws/balls)

The reason I included the prices for all of the Tamiya parts at the beginning of the Parts List is this, add them all together and they total just over $60. This does NOT include shipping cost. Another thing to note is the screw bags are hard to find. This is why the cost is so high on them. Since you mostly need them for pins, diff cover screws, etc., you may be able to source the items from you local Hardware store. You can generally pick up a TT-01 roller or part lot for under $60, so it will probably be cheaper to do that instead of buying all the Tamiya parts separately. Another thing to consider is this, if like me, you already own a TT-01, you already have a lot of the required parts for this conversion.

Initial Impression

Once I got the car put together and on the track, I was overall impressed with the car. I have not had much time with it to dial it in or to even get the gearing figured out. I have come across a couple of things that need to be addressed though.

1) The battery is held in with a Velcro strap. There is NOTHING holding the battery in place from sliding out of the car from the side. You will need to come up with something to fix this. For now, I put some double-sided tape along the chassis, on the outside of the battery, but long term, I will make up some new battery holders that have lips on them, similar to the TC6 design.

2) I already have an M-05 Mini Cooper, so to reduce cost; I stole the body from it to put on the MT-01 (as I call it). Two problems. First, the rear body post do not line up with the existing holes in the body. I didn’t want to drill additional holes in the body, so I made up some spacers to extend the body post out, away from the shock towers, further. Second, no matter how you set up the wheelbase, without modifying anything, the front tires will rub on the inside of the body. It will do this to the point of nearly stopping the car. Conclusion – don’t use the Mini Cooper body!

3) I quickly found out myself, along with reading from other’s posts, that the dog bones with easily fall out of the front of the car if you even lightly bump into something. With that said, I would suggest you change to the CVA style shafts (TAM53597).

In conclusion, I like the car, but I still need a lot more time with it to figure out whether it’s for me or not. So far, it’s fun though. It’s similar to the Tamiya Mini’s, but you have more adjustments and AWD. I’m not too worried about the fact it’s made in China and parts aren’t readily available as the majority of the parts are from Tamiya and are easy to obtain.

I know there are several other options out on the market currently that offer the same benefits of this kit. I bought this kit strictly out of curiosity and I’m not saying its any better or worse then the others. The intention of this review is to help others who may be interested in this kit and who may struggle through the assembly.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:07 AM   #94
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Saw one of these running today. It was competitive with the other 4WD mini's. Best thing is you can call it a TT01
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:25 PM   #95
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Thanks for all the helpful info in this thread

These cars look really cool but I have one concern... the main center driveshaft is plastic.

Anyone have an issue with it, or is there an aluminum or carbon replacement?

Thanks
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:16 PM   #96
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Sorry to bring back a old thread but....
Just finished my tt01e m-chassis conversion
started off at a tt01e F150

pinion is a tlt-1 24t pinion with stock spure
tekin 10.5t redline 13mm HT rotor
savox 1257tg servo
spectruk sr200
novak edge 2s
Venom 60C 2S 3800mAh lipo
3racing mini wheels (what came with the conversion)
HPI super radial tires
3racing mini oil shocks (springs an oil on car)
avid revolution 5x11 (8) 5x11 avid ceramic (4) traxxas 8x12 (4)
HPI Lancia Stratos body 210mm wheelbase

Whats left to be done
Alum center drive (or cf depending on if i can find one)
FF03 gear adapter (so i can mess with gearing more)
Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile High Speed Metal Gear Digital Servo
relocate the edge 2s install esc fan
21.5t schuurSpeed motor

The kit was a minor pain to put together but compared to the time spent on my exo this little dude was a cinch to get rolling. I'll still need to do a alignment using some calipers but i've got everything as figured as i can by eyeballing.
So far haven't had any issues with the dog bones or the center drive shaft now if only i could figure if my gearing isn't to much wiht this 113oF weather both the esc an the motor are getting hot the esc definitely needs a fan.

OK now about driving... goes like a cat splashed with a garden hose. Handles like the rear doesn't like fallowing the tires don't really grab a hold of the asphalt or cement though that may be all the dust. Stopping I am at a slight loss though maybe its due to a much heavier vehicle but i've found wiht initial brake a 30 on my edge 2s the car still slows down like its deciding if it wants to stop. I am looking to slow down this beast abit getting it more to a vta spec motor wise the 10.5 with that high torque rotor is super overkill.The shocks are nice but I really have no clue how i should set this little dude up with shock feel compared to the offroads i own maybe someone could point me to a good medium?
Attached Thumbnails
M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-tt01estratos1.jpg   M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-tt01estratos2.jpg   M Chassis Conversion Kit For TT01-E & TT01-tt01estratos3.jpg  
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:36 PM   #97
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Decided to get one of these now rcmart have them back in stock and they're really cheap plus I have a good TT01R type E I no longer use. Can I use the stock TT01 prop shaft or do I need to find a shorter one? Also what hop up steering rack do I need? Is it a specific 3 racing one or can I use one from a TT01 as I have the alloy steering on mine.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:00 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by Mini35 View Post
Decided to get one of these now rcmart have them back in stock and they're really cheap plus I have a good TT01R type E I no longer use. Can I use the stock TT01 prop shaft or do I need to find a shorter one? Also what hop up steering rack do I need? Is it a specific 3 racing one or can I use one from a TT01 as I have the alloy steering on mine.
The car is thinner and shorter than the TT01.... So you'll need the shorter shaft and the steering is very different to the TT01... So, I'm sorry to say, you'll need to use the steering rack from the conversion kit, or the hop up...
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:02 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_Tank View Post
Sorry to bring back a old thread but....
Just finished my tt01e m-chassis conversion
started off at a tt01e F150

pinion is a tlt-1 24t pinion with stock spure
tekin 10.5t redline 13mm HT rotor
savox 1257tg servo
spectruk sr200
novak edge 2s
Venom 60C 2S 3800mAh lipo
3racing mini wheels (what came with the conversion)
HPI super radial tires
3racing mini oil shocks (springs an oil on car)
avid revolution 5x11 (8) 5x11 avid ceramic (4) traxxas 8x12 (4)
HPI Lancia Stratos body 210mm wheelbase
After re-reading the thread... this is my dream chassis. Mid engine, 4wd, convertible from 210mm (HPI Lancia Stratos) to 239mm (Tamiya Lancia 037) wheelbase. Getting one of these maybe even before piecing together my F1 car.
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Last edited by firefoxussr; 11-15-2013 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:18 AM   #100
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A stock TT01 can run a 55 spur and 25 pinion but I'm wanting to go further. Will I be able to fit a bigger pinion in with the 55 spur with this conversion?
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