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Old 07-24-2011, 07:53 PM   #241
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Originally Posted by cheapskate.brok View Post
hey guys, TT01 and M05 shocks are the same specs? Those 3racing ones (for the M05/03) are sold out everywhere i checked.

But the ones for TT01 are still available. Thanks!
Sorry to say,the TT01 and MO5 shock are not the same lenght.not sold out,just the price different.
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:46 PM   #242
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Hi, I need help with a good setup for an M05 with Tamiya Sport Tuned motor on a low grip outdoor ashpalt track. The track isn't very technical. Its made up of 4 hairpins, and 1 high speed sweeper.

Locals say: Super Grips, 30wt oil all round, Springs Frt-Blue Rr-Yellow. But this just doesn't sound right so was hoping for reassurance or other solid options

help!!!!!

Shock oil Frt/Rr =
Shock Springs Frt/Rr =
Droop (Shock spacers Frt/Rr) =
Tires Frt/Rr =
Toe in/out =
Anything else???

Thx....
Try this

Shock oil 60wt front and rear
Yellow spring at Front and Blue spring at rear
1 o-ring at inner shock
Depend on what tire you have,this set up is for 55mm tire.
toe out at front 2 degree,3 degree toe in at rear.
ride height are 5.5mm at front and 6mm at rear.

Hope this help.

Cheers
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:22 PM   #243
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Hey Gang,

I just chewed up another gear in the mini, the plastic gear that the pinion rides on. Today in my M05, last weekend in the kid's M03. Both gears are the same pattern... half the width of the teeth are gone on the side closest to the motor. I verified pinion alignment in both cars after the M03 incident last week, yet had the same problem in my M05. Both time the motor screws were still tight. Same exact problem in two different cars. What am I missing here?
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:01 PM   #244
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Hey Gang,

I just chewed up another gear in the mini, the plastic gear that the pinion rides on. Today in my M05, last weekend in the kid's M03. Both gears are the same pattern... half the width of the teeth are gone on the side closest to the motor. I verified pinion alignment in both cars after the M03 incident last week, yet had the same problem in my M05. Both time the motor screws were still tight. Same exact problem in two different cars. What am I missing here?
I also notice that if you're using the standard gear diff,during any crash,the gear will damage,I'm using ball diff (TA03) on my MO5,no issue on the gear even with hard crash.
Maybe is the diff can slip during crash,the gear diff can't.
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:47 AM   #245
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Just finished building my M05, can't wait to see what kind of pace it provides. Nope, I've never ran a FWD mchassis before (had an M04, prior). I didn't like too much blue so I got some original black parts (chassis brace, shock tower set, shock ends) and threw some PINK into the mix.

A warning to potential M05 buyers out there, the car has alot of slop. Get some shim set, for 3mm, 4mm and 5mm. 5mm ones are for the axles, 4mm for the kingpins and hinge pins, and 3mm for other misc requirements. Attention has to be paid to these areas;
  1. The screw that secures the shock is waay too loose, I expect a shorter life span of the shock cap if nothing is done about it. Tamiya's so called 5mm ball ends may improve a little, but they show up at 4.72mm under the caliper. I got PINK 3racing ones instead, coming at close to 4.8mm. The fit is much much better. Be sure to lube the alum screws abit, and take it easy. I was so excited about how the pink fuse with the blue plating, that the alum ball threads heated up and broke inside the shock tower. Thus in the pics, I'm using the black one which I bought as spare. Didn't like the bue plated 'handles, so I used the black ones there too.
  1. Remove the 2 diff rings that are supposed to be behind the larger gear in the diff. In my experience, upon putting the chassis together they bind and there was no diff action. Take those two out, smear the diff gears with anything above 100k silicone oil. DOn't over do it, they're not sealed diffs and will leak. A thin coat is just fine.
  1. Be alert on the orientation of the battery 'wings', i got them on the wrong side, the batt can't fit properly and it was such a pain to take the chassis apart again
  1. I got the 3racing alum steering set, much much precise compared to the stock units. I added a 3mm spacer under the steering plate, forward hole, and 2mm spacer on the knuckles, forward hole. Steering is linear and no bump steer (just my preference, not a performance indicator). TO do this you may need ball ends with 10mm threads. For the knuckles, I used a steel screw from underneath, coming up and secured by a female ball end
  1. For better balance, head down to your hardware store and ask for a length of 3mm lead. It's usually built in the walls of an xray/flouroscopy room which blocks out radiation during exposures. I believe lead plays some part in roofing construction as well? Cut a small piece, bend it into any shape, drill out 3mm holes and put it opposite the motor and you're done! I've managed to cut and fold smaller pieces and stuffed them in the front bumper for added traction.
  1. My front shocks have 4 orings and rear have 2 orings plus 3mm plastic spacer for my required droop.
  1. Get those Carbon Fiber pattern decal sheets and stick 'em under the chassis for protection, and bling purposes.
  1. Got some 10mm turnbuckles to adjust the front toe easily. Didn't like the included set screws, you need to pop out the ball cups to make adjustments and it's hard to get the settings you want

None of the mentioned above are performance indicators, just wanna share my building experiences. Oh, I used CVDs in front and included the sway bar set in my ride.




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Old 08-15-2011, 03:16 AM   #246
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Not sure what you are doing wrong but the shims behind the big gears in the diff are NOT a problem. In fact I use extra shims to tighten the diff up for better drive out of the corners

As for the shocks .... I dont know anyone that uses those ones as they break on the first crash ... they are too brittle
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:48 AM   #247
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The big washers behind the big internal gears are supposed to keep the gears from digging into/wearing the plastic.
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:59 AM   #248
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The big washers behind the big internal gears are supposed to keep the gears from digging into/wearing the plastic.
I guess that's when an oil filled unit will come into place

As for the plastic shocks, yeah they are brittle but I haven't break them. We'll see how many races it'll last. Thanks for the heads up.

Last edited by cheapskate.brok; 08-15-2011 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:39 PM   #249
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Default thinking of installing a gear diff to mo5

Hello am ordering a 3 racing Gear Differential 39T and thinking of replacing the original ones has any one tried it out plz need feed back ?
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:42 PM   #250
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Hello am ordering a 3 racing Gear Differential 39T and thinking of replacing the original ones has any one tried it out plz need feed back ?
The 3 Racing gear diff works very well. Just remember to put heavy oil in it
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Old 09-07-2011, 04:34 PM   #251
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I have ran my M05 PRO 10 battery packs now... and I gotta say the MINI thing never gets old. These cars are very FUN to Drive and can be done on a modest budget... I have invested $600 dollars into mine and I really have no regrets about that.

I started off borrowing a friend of mine's M05 and attended TUESDAY night racing at WC. It was super fun and the second or maybe the first time I raced they had 21 entries for that division which I thought was AMAZING (Huell Howser voice). I already knew I was going to buy one so I strated compiling a lil set up and very helpful suggestions from guys like Granpa and Tony Tam.
So time to buy my own. I got the KIT M05-PRO for an unbeatable deal at http://www.westcoastrcraceway.com and a couple other little odds and ends that I needed in their fully stocked hobby shop.
I started seeking out a few more hop-ups that I felt I would need for the build prior to actually starting so I found a great resource online http://www.speedtechrc.com and purchased the aluminum steering rack, comm drops, sweep 33 deg and some five spoke rims and a KO SERVO. I would like to thank Jeff Y and the whole crew at speedtech for being very friendly and helpful! Thanks for the good guy discount.
Okay so I thought I was ready to build, countless hours of googling stuff I pretty much already knew to do and just nerding off on info and sifting through countless debates about cheating and why they want it silver can. Then I found the site I had heard about http://www.tqrcracing.com great deals and lots of cool hop-ups if you aren't to worried about keeping it TCS legal. I have made two orders through TQ and even though they are close by to me and have a lil carpet track I took advantage of their modest shipping costs... free with orders over $100. They had what I needed and some other stuff I wanted to try. At first I had a whole bunch of three racing stuff in my cart... but thought better of most of that stuff since it will be my intention to make it out to some of the regional races for TCS. I did however stuck with the SPEC-R arms that I wanted to try and actually was the reason why I found the TQ website... I didn't want to order from Korea for several opinions... lets keep our money in the USA boys.. LOL I know we all drive Japan cars and have China toys. I also got a sick lid from HPI Racing its the Honda Civic 9th GEN hatch, basically a 97-2000 type body. I loved the style and it was a great deal for 19.99 as opossed to the 39.99 body I will have for TCS next year. Probably gonna go with the Light Weight Swift for the Season. The Civic Body fit great at the "M" wheel base.
All in all I did learn a few key M05 (M-05) speed secret, tips and tricks... I will share them with you now.

Most importantly set a budget and stick to it... I went over board on one or two things I really did not need and won't be TCS legal.
WHATS THE DIFF?
The black reinforced gears are only 6 bucks and should be purchased before the build... the first step is to get greasy. Also if you want to be competitive with the car set-up the diff right the first time so you don't have to go back and do it twice. Ask your local fast guys as to what the preferred set-up is... our track has much to much grip so the spool was useless. I think the gear diff works great but it needs to be double shimmed and use the three case screws to tune stiffness... oh yeah and don't forget to slather them gears with the Anti Wear Grease (AW)
Nothing Shocking
These clear shocks have basically been made as a cool idea on paper but basically things that look this cool rarely have the proper functionality for racing. I would suggest chucking them in the trash... but I am a firm believer you should try whats in the kit befor diverging off with something so drastic as the overall intended suspension for the car. My finding were that these little shocks were tricky to build properly. If you use a traditional bleed method while scewing down the CAP... good luck- the shock will take on air and will not bleed. This will leave you with a tremendous amount of unwanted rebound. The manual points you in the right direction but the first shock took me a good ten minutes to get right. First off make sure you use the long limiters under the piston... this is how you set the droop for the car. I used 50wt oil in the front shacks and 40wt in the rear. To build the shock properly simply fill the shock body with oil... work the piston up and down and let the shock sit to expel the unwanted bubbles. Place the bladder on the top of the shock body and cover the bladder with a finger... push the piston up to bleed...now slowly take your finger off the top..without allowing the bladder to lift... now delicately screw the shock cap on. After my first run I went 40wt Losi all the way around and was very happy with the feel of the shocks. Opps almost forgot for the rear droop set it a 3mm with some aluminum shims or the supplied shorter shim and an additional 1mm shim. I am glad I tried these shocks even though they broke the first time I crashed LOL. I just super glued it back together. As a matter of fact the shocks are stronger after you break them... CA glue is awesome. I want to cut the bladders into o-rings and make emulsion style shocks (like the 22 set-up) before I chuck these clear shocks in the trash. Side note you can buy replacement shock bodies that are black but the caps don't fit the clear body so you have to switch out the whole thing.
Chassis Set-up
Buy some 1mm and 2mm shims prior to the build... xray, top they all make em.
Use a 1mm shim in between the steering drag link ends... perfect amount of toe-out.. this car needs a good 2-3 of out on the FRONT.
Toe_in on the rear is already set for the PRO model. Rear Camber link 1mm shim as well... but honestly I like my mini with a 2mm shim... car does'nt want to roll over at all. I don't have the sway set yet... but if I did I would run the thinner of the two supplied Rear sways to start with a 1mm exposed end.
Wear that Rubber!
Again find out what works best for your track. Don't be shy just roll up to the fastest dude and ask him what hes running. They told me Sweeps 40deg in front with firm inserts and 33's in rear with medium inserts. I went with 33's all around and love the way my car feels.
MOTOR CARE
I have learned the hard way and I have done enough reading to know that you have to pay your dues to get a good silver can going. However I have raced brushed motors for 20 years so I could imagine some of the things they do... I know advancing the motor by means of tweaking the comm is an old trick... but the new motors have a cheater free design (from what I heard). First off NEVER USE MOTOR SPRAY... it will dry out the brushes and kill the motor quicker. Get some comm drops... you gonna need them (i use the much more) Braso or mothers metal polish the comm once a race day... I like to do it before the Main... GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN. I love my MINI!
notch
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:12 AM   #252
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most of the mchassis veterans in my area seem to have those alum knuckles on. Me? I had the stock ones, fearing that the alloy units may tweak and the naked eye can't tell the difference.

I guess it's time for me to jump n the bandwagon, just realized my knuckle are cracked where the kingpin goes into.

Have fun!
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:59 PM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmr
Hey Gang,

I just chewed up another gear in the mini, the plastic gear that the pinion rides on. Today in my M05, last weekend in the kid's M03. Both gears are the same pattern... half the width of the teeth are gone on the side closest to the motor. I verified pinion alignment in both cars after the M03 incident last week, yet had the same problem in my M05. Both time the motor screws were still tight. Same exact problem in two different cars. What am I missing here?
Check the standard pinions have not shark toothed. This will cause that type of wear to your spur gears. The standard Tamiya 20 tooth pinion is soft and wears quickly.

Just my thoughts,

Calvin.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:45 PM   #254
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jeeze, talk about thread dredging.. cant you guys just put all this stuff in the main mini cooper thread like everyone else instead of dragging this one back up again....
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:25 PM   #255
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Talk about "bling" that m05 is sweet!
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Last edited by Hyde; 07-08-2012 at 12:49 PM.
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