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Old 02-10-2012, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JiiIii
Struggling with a really aggressive "bite" in the steering (mid corner).
Running on very high grip carpet, -1/-1,5 camber (front/rear), Schumi Yellow/blue springs, shocks laid down all the, 1,6/1,4 swaybars. 1,5 mm washer under the steering mount ball studs (using the new CXL steering mount). Any ideas, maybe decreasing camber (adding washer) so that inside tire will slip more?

shock oil setup? harder tires may help too.
(using the new CXL steering mount)<<----please post a pic of your ackerman...

Last edited by poochy; 02-10-2012 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:45 PM
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Here is my setup for Mi4CXL
http://zooberg.files.wordpress.com/2...skil120211.pdf

the car was very esay to drive and works excellt.


//Marcus Söberg
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Zooberg
Here is my setup for Mi4CXL
http://zooberg.files.wordpress.com/2...skil120211.pdf

the car was very esay to drive and works excellt.


//Marcus Söberg
marcus, when you measure the shock length, i see it is 12.6 is that the length from the bottom of the shock body to the ball cup?

thanks, rich
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
marcus, when you measure the shock length, i see it is 12.6 is that the length from the bottom of the shock body to the ball cup?

thanks, rich
Yes. From shockbody bottom to the ball cups begining,
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:02 PM
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Hi,

Yesterday we took out our CXL for the first time and i would like to share my first opinions.
I used Martin Hofer's ETS round 2 setup to start with on a high traction carpet track. For tires i used the ride 32 indoor and Sorex 28JB.

What i really like, compared to the CX is the way it handles now. It's sharper and has lot's of steering. The new steering yoke makes a big difference.

What i don't like so far, is that under acceleration (10.5 Boosted) it becomes very light on the front wheels because the back is digging in too much.
Increasing the rear shock oil to 45 wt and decreasing the front droop from 5 to 6 helped a bit but could not solve it.

So some setup work is required for next attempt and all suggestions are welcome
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Magneto
Hi,

Yesterday we took out our CXL for the first time and i would like to share my first opinions.
I used Martin Hofer's ETS round 2 setup to start with on a high traction carpet track. For tires i used the ride 32 indoor and Sorex 28JB.

What i really like, compared to the CX is the way it handles now. It's sharper and has lot's of steering. The new steering yoke makes a big difference.

What i don't like so far, is that under acceleration (10.5 Boosted) it becomes very light on the front wheels because the back is digging in too much.
Increasing the rear shock oil to 45 wt and decreasing the front droop from 5 to 6 helped a bit but could not solve it.
agreed...the CXL handles quite a different...
car rotates great around corners...i have not experienced traction rolls at this time..
I feel the car is close...
going to play with the front most battery position. and will remove sway bars from the front...to let the car roll a bit more.
I have to say I am very impressed with the CXL.
I ran the car box stock...except for the following
HPI pinks in the front
putting 1.5 mm under the rear camber plate.
I will post up setup tomorrow so we can compare.
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:06 PM
  #3352  
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Hey all you Schumacher Mi4 racers, have you signed up to race your Mi4 at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals coming up on March 16? Hurry up and register before time runs out! Click here to get signed up.

Click HERE to see a countdown to the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:48 AM
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VOTE HERE
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:03 AM
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Im having servo saver issues. Im currently running the Schumacher standard servo saver and I feel its to wobbly and seems very weak. When I enter a high speed right hand 90 then into a tight chicane my servo saver seems to wash out. The saver feels like it cant handle the quick direction change and deflects.
It is only this section of the track where this is an issue.
Is there a way to tighten up the spring?
I would rather run with no servo saver but my skills wont allow that. I have tried the smaller Kimbrough but it doesnt seem to have enough throw and places the steering link at an odd angle, and the larger ones rub the chassis, so the servo needs to be jacked up.
I see posted above a Yokomo servo saver, seems like a good one and would be great, if it were more readily available.

Any suggestions out there on other options? or pics of how you made one fit?
Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by outtafocus
Im having servo saver issues. Im currently running the Schumacher standard servo saver and I feel its to wobbly and seems very weak. When I enter a high speed right hand 90 then into a tight chicane my servo saver seems to wash out. The saver feels like it cant handle the quick direction change and deflects.
It is only this section of the track where this is an issue.
Is there a way to tighten up the spring?
I would rather run with no servo saver but my skills wont allow that. I have tried the smaller Kimbrough but it doesnt seem to have enough throw and places the steering link at an odd angle, and the larger ones rub the chassis, so the servo needs to be jacked up.
I see posted above a Yokomo servo saver, seems like a good one and would be great, if it were more readily available.

Any suggestions out there on other options? or pics of how you made one fit?
Thanks.
try the tamiya servo saver...works great
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by outtafocus
Im having servo saver issues. Im currently running the Schumacher standard servo saver and I feel its to wobbly and seems very weak. When I enter a high speed right hand 90 then into a tight chicane my servo saver seems to wash out. The saver feels like it cant handle the quick direction change and deflects.
It is only this section of the track where this is an issue.
Is there a way to tighten up the spring?
I would rather run with no servo saver but my skills wont allow that. I have tried the smaller Kimbrough but it doesnt seem to have enough throw and places the steering link at an odd angle, and the larger ones rub the chassis, so the servo needs to be jacked up.
I see posted above a Yokomo servo saver, seems like a good one and would be great, if it were more readily available.

Any suggestions out there on other options? or pics of how you made one fit?
Thanks.
I have been using the Xray servo saver (new version) works great super tough. Looks at home with Shuie parts.
But just switched back to the Schumacher solid arm best overall feel, I hit quite a few walls, No issues so far.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:32 PM
  #3357  
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I've put in a lot of time with a solid aluminum arm (racer's edge, dynamite, core RC... stay away from the dynamite) in two cars. The car with the Futaba BLS551, I've never broken the gears. The car with the Savox 1251mg, I've broken the gears many times.

I've run the Yokomo SD200-H servo savers a couple times now, and they seem to work fine.

Kimbrough medium almost fits, but it doesn't really clear the top deck well. One thing you could do is to make an aluminum or carbon or maybe even plastic extension on the servo-side. That might move it away from the top deck enough to get good clearance. Someone I race with did something similar, and it looked good, but I don't think it was a Kimbrough.

-Mike
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:51 AM
  #3358  
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Just ordered a Mi4CXL so guess i had better start reading this thread
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk
Just ordered a Mi4CXL so guess i had better start reading this thread
Good choice...the CXL is rock solid and has soo much steering it's crazy.

if you have any questions feel free to ask, since the CXL is a different from the CX = setups will be a little different.

for anyone wondering. I have my CXL weighing in at 1385g with a standard weight body (3 layers of paint, too much weight)
low profile servo installed.
Tekin RS Pro
LRP X12 17.5
MM high RPM fan
MyLaps Trnsdr
TI screws on lower deck only
5600 2s lipo 65C

Note: the new bulkheads are freakin fantastic, the lowered hinge pin mounts make a huge difference in how the car handles. No more traction rolling.

At this time the only thing I wanted to add-on was front Titanium inner hinge pins. they are one piece solid (no screw holes)..this was more for as a precaution to keep anything from tweaking during those hard impacts I tend to make happen.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:09 AM
  #3360  
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Default Follow the Build of my MI4CXL

Follow the Build of my Mi4CXL starting very soon

@

http://www.car69.me.uk/mi4cxl-the-big-build-2012.html

Check it out its the Big Build of 2012 , Last year my Mi4CX Build had a lot of hits per day and was very helpful to a lot of people ........
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