olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Shoo Goo...
works like a charm on the lipo tabs..
let it sit overnight...
if there is ever a need to remove it..then just take an exacto knife or small driver and prop off.

scott_g

iTrader: (9)

Schumacher Mi4CXL built and reviewed: at Action R/C here

And video from the first run with the car by Chris Sturdy in Australia: at Action R/C here

We're very happy with what we're finding so far.

poochy

iTrader: (11)

i tried shoo goo-works best so far but it has failed a few times..though i still use shoo goo....theres gotta be something that works better...?


btw does anybody want to get rid of the old stock CX chassis?

MarcusEngdahl

Nice !
But haha kind of funny you say

"What it does mean is that a new Schumacher customer gets the best package of chassis and updates all in one go (and for much less than buying the CX and each of the optional parts). From our perspective it’s a win-win situation. We’ d much rather Schumacher release an up-to-date kit every 12-18 months bundling the best of the improvements, than have to tell customers they need to buy a kit and a shopping list of optional extras."

And just a little bit further down you show us a list with optionparts you are using when building the kit

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

did you sand the area where the sho goo is getting placed?
i have sho goo'd servos to chassis and never had them come out.

on CX i haven't even used the lipo tabs..I tape the battery in...never had it come out or shift out of place.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

i think a little further down (1 paragragh) he stated:
"Partly we used these options because we had them floating around, and partly because we’re particularly building the car for modified. In spec class racing we wouldn’t change diff balls, belt or centre body post. There are optional grey belts available that are specifically designed for the stock classes

Please keep in mind just about every Brand out there has the same type of option parts to add to there respective cars.


I've been using my CX with all the standard parts from the stock kit...it's been quite durable
the only thing I wanted to add so far was the Spec R gear diff.
Just got the CXL and looks like I won't have to do anything to the car.
Car has been good so far.
But I will admit I have a habit of adding options parts at some point to see performance effects.

o

poochy

iTrader: (11)

some may know but i dont knw anybody who got faster getting option parts...at least for the major sedans
those that practice and run competitive tires seem to make the leap

JiiIii

Struggling with a really aggressive "bite" in the steering (mid corner).
Running on very high grip carpet, -1/-1,5 camber (front/rear), Schumi Yellow/blue springs, shocks laid down all the, 1,6/1,4 swaybars. 1,5 mm washer under the steering mount ball studs (using the new CXL steering mount). Any ideas, maybe decreasing camber (adding washer) so that inside tire will slip more?

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I got faster with HPI springs, and the gear diff also helped due to consistency.

-Mike

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

on the CX....
the first day..the car would generate way too much grip..then ass out..mid turn.

ending up taking the sway bars off...i let the car roll more...
changed to HPI pinks in the front...Schui Whites in the rear.
Front shocks = 2nd hole from outside
rear shocks = middle or 2nd inner hold
shock oil = 42.5 f / 35 r
camber = 1.25 front / 2-2.25 rear (Solaris Med)
camber link plates...1mil shim under plate (not under ball).
front pivot blocks = standard
rear pivot blocks = alloy...slammed them all the way down.
rear arm shimmed = inner rear = 1mm / outer rear = 3mm...approx.

i found after a day of testing..
moving the arms rearward made a big difference. Car did not snap on entry or mid turn, felt very planted.

basically i took a day as a setup day..to play around with different stuff, to see where the car felt best.
Try everything you think...but 1 thing at a time.
too many changes at once and mayhem will occur.
ohh...don't forget to check dual rate...CX turns very aggressive...you have to dial out a lot of steering on the radio. I am 82% throw then dialed dual rate down to 61%.

JiiIii

Thanks for the tips. Are the HPI springs people using for example these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Set-Hard-6

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

i believe this is one of the HPI Racing springs colors.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...15mm-6-Coils-2
they are black and the color is painted on the bottom.

don't know the part number for the full set...way cheaper than buying the colors individually...

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

You really only need gold, pink, blue, and 2 pairs silver. I think silver is 6542. The others are close. If you're searching for the full set, look for the pro4 set. The picture on some sites is outdated.

The spec-r springs are pretty cheap, too, but I haven't run them much yet.

-Mike

Craig W

iTrader: (1)

ive been test on mr33 ride moorespeed and i real like how car drive on them

scoyle

Are you using medium or flex hub carriers (steering yoke) - I find on tracks with lots of grip moving from flex to medium makes the car dive less and rolls through the corners.