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Schumacher Mi4

Old 02-02-2010, 08:06 PM
  #1471  
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
That looks really nice. Is the motor mount a flat black? Looks clean.
Almost all the parts come out flat. I look's so much better in real life.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:41 AM
  #1472  
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Hi all.

I have just gone and ordered myself an Mi4LP Pro and was wondering if I could bother you all with a few questions.

I plan on running stock (17.5) at my local outdoor track and was wondering if there is anything that I need to consider purchasing as upgrades and or spares. I have read a bit on here that the pivot blocks are brittle (early batch?). Would I be likely to get the brittle blocks if I only ordered the car 3 days ago? Is it worth trying to get a few spares and or consider alloy ones?

Seems that the TR upgrades (CVDs and Spool etc) are popular option parts. Would these be classed as 'must have' items or are the factory parts sufficient for my class? I wont be running on carpet but I do like to have plenty of spares for when the wooden barriers get up and move in front of my car... they do that you know!.

Thanks in advance.

Simon
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:54 AM
  #1473  
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Wheel bearings for when you tap the boards.

This really is a solid kit, like most kits, I have yet to break anything from the few taps I have had. BUUUUT, order the usual: spring set, arms, pivot blocks, and hubs.

I have opted to not buy any "upgrades" by other companies as it seems to me that most of them have different weaknesses that I do not wish to trade for.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:59 PM
  #1474  
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Definitely get a spare set of arms...front usually hit first so they break more often than the rear. A pair of caster blocks. I prefer the alloy pivot blocks (and I believe that most of the setups sheets from the drivers include them), but the stock ones are just fine...I believe only the early runs were brittle. Be careful when using a setup sheet to see if they are using the alloy or plastic blocks...they are not interchangeable (meaning the alloy blocks are not exactly the same as the plastic ones) and will require different shims to set the rear toe. I haven't had any problems with bearings failing so I wouldn't get any spares (but that's just me). I would also get a couple of spare gears if you are running the 64 pitch gears. Also, you should have a set of different weight springs for tuning the setup...Schumacher has a spring set but any mfr. should work. That's all I can think of needing and good luck.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:06 PM
  #1475  
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Originally Posted by Team_Krusty View Post
Hi all.

I have just gone and ordered myself an Mi4LP Pro and was wondering if I could bother you all with a few questions.

I plan on running stock (17.5) at my local outdoor track and was wondering if there is anything that I need to consider purchasing as upgrades and or spares. I have read a bit on here that the pivot blocks are brittle (early batch?). Would I be likely to get the brittle blocks if I only ordered the car 3 days ago? Is it worth trying to get a few spares and or consider alloy ones?

Seems that the TR upgrades (CVDs and Spool etc) are popular option parts. Would these be classed as 'must have' items or are the factory parts sufficient for my class? I wont be running on carpet but I do like to have plenty of spares for when the wooden barriers get up and move in front of my car... they do that you know!.

Thanks in advance.

Simon
If the suspension blocks that come with your car are a dark black, they are the brittle ones. If they have more of a grey tone to them, they are the updated ones. The updated ones are really good you shouldn't have one break on you.

I would also add to what others have said, that you should get the Parma bumper. It requires a little trimming but is a awesome, inexpensive upgrade that will prevent lots of damage in wrecks.

I would order some suspension shims so that you can adjust the car more freely, and some axle blades. The rears don't wear at all it seems but if the asphalt you race on is high traction, the spool up front will probably make short work of the axle blades. Cheaper to replace those than a chewed up spool cup
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:45 PM
  #1476  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
stlSLOW, you going to get a Schumacher now? LOL you post here more then the HB's thread
No...and who you calling slow?
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:27 PM
  #1477  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
No...and who you calling slow?
It's ok Clint. He tends to lash out at others with his own personal problems..
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:27 PM
  #1478  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
No...and who you calling slow?
As I recall, you got lapped at swr. And b main'd at norcal

Better come out and redeem your self
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:37 AM
  #1479  
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Originally Posted by Team_Krusty View Post
Hi all.

I have just gone and ordered myself an Mi4LP Pro and was wondering if I could bother you all with a few questions.

I plan on running stock (17.5) at my local outdoor track and was wondering if there is anything that I need to consider purchasing as upgrades and or spares. I have read a bit on here that the pivot blocks are brittle (early batch?). Would I be likely to get the brittle blocks if I only ordered the car 3 days ago? Is it worth trying to get a few spares and or consider alloy ones?

Seems that the TR upgrades (CVDs and Spool etc) are popular option parts. Would these be classed as 'must have' items or are the factory parts sufficient for my class? I wont be running on carpet but I do like to have plenty of spares for when the wooden barriers get up and move in front of my car... they do that you know!.

Thanks in advance.

Simon
Hello Simon I'm not sure this is entirely relevant, the advice here is good, its a fantastic car but here is my experience.

I have broken a few parts on mine. I race indoor carpet. I did have the bad pivot blocks and changed them over for alloy. These work very well and allow you to fine adjust roll centre, which you might find rather useful.

Blades on the spool are not a good idea for indoor carpet so I went with a TIR front end. Destroyed two complete sets of shafts in one day without a really bad hit. Avoid these. The rears hold up fine though, no problem there.

I've solved my reliability problems completely by using the TIR spool (no blades) and Tamiya steel driveshafts 46mm 58347. I drilled out the Schumacher hexes to accept the 2mm pin and took off 0.1mm thickness and have a perfect fit. Haven't broken or even bent a single thing since.

The car works like an absolute dream now, and is as reliable as my 009. You can tailor the stiffness with a whole range of decks, and independent rear flex adjustment, far better than pulling screws. Its just so well thought out. Easy to balance and you can keep the mass centralised. Easy to pull the diffs and spur without disassembling half the car. Lipo friendly chassis..this is a great design, I doubt you will be disappointed.
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:59 AM
  #1480  
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Hey Guys, just got my Mi4 on the road and I have a question. Do any of you have a strong opinion one way or the other on running a servo saver? If it is recommended to run one which are you guys using?
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:02 AM
  #1481  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
As I recall, you got lapped at swr. And b main'd at norcal

Better come out and redeem your self
I was testing at SWR and the comp was fierce at Norcal. It would have been hard for you to make the main there. You would have needed a different pinion for running 17.5 so you would have been slow since you were too lazy to change it out
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
It's ok Clint. He tends to lash out at others with his own personal problems..
I was thjinking the same thing
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:15 AM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
Hey Guys, just got my Mi4 on the road and I have a question. Do any of you have a strong opinion one way or the other on running a servo saver? If it is recommended to run one which are you guys using?
My opinon is that, always run your steering direct, to me it feels better, and aslong as your servo has metal or titanium gears throughout then i dont see the need for one, ive never done a servo in due to not running one.
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:55 AM
  #1484  
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Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
My opinon is that, always run your steering direct
mine's the opposite. but the saver has to be strong. (of course, i've never run on anything but 2x4's or click-track)
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:45 AM
  #1485  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
I was testing at SWR and the comp was fierce at Norcal. It would have been hard for you to make the main there. You would have needed a different pinion for running 17.5 so you would have been slow since you were too lazy to change it out
I ran fine with Motormouth at amain when I was "testing" I beat him in one of the heats. You have me on the pinion part though. But 17.5 is so slow no matter what pinion I'd put on it would still be suck so it doesn't matter. Hahaha so I'd complain either way

as far as the tamiya cvd's and tir spool I'm about to do that! Does the spool wear bad? Or does it seem pretty tough?
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