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Schumacher Mi4

Old 01-22-2010, 02:58 PM
  #1426  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
That would be sick!

I dont think you can anodize white? Not sure
You could probably powder coat. I think that would add a bit of weight, though.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:28 PM
  #1427  
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Anyone got pics of an Mi4 with a Tekin RS? I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the speedo and route the wires.

I threw my receiver on top of the servo to make plenty of room for the speedo and wires. It's so light, I figured it wouldn't affect weight balance and CG enough to worry about.

Is it worth it to rotate the motor so the wire tabs point forward instead of up?

Other random questions:

I've got two servos, and 2 cars. One is a Pro 3, which has a built-in servo saver. The other is the Mi4, and I'm planning to go sans servo saver, partly based on feedback from this thread, and partly because the servo saver rubs on the top deck. One servo is a Tower TS-140, the other is the TS-160. Same dimensions, the 160 is .2oz heavier, and it has double the torque (like 150 vs 80, or something). I think it's also .14/60 as opposed to .13/60. They're both digital, metal gear, 2BB. I'm pretty sure the 160 is actually a Hitec, and the 140 is actually a Futaba, based on the way they look and the splines. Anyway, the question is, which one would be better to run without the servo saver? Or does it not really matter?

Is there anything on the car that I should locktight, or be particularly careful not to over or under-tighten? For example, it sounds like the suspension blocks are sensitive. I'll take out the screws that go into the pins, but should I loosen up the screws into the bulkhead and maybe locktight them?

-Mike
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:31 PM
  #1428  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Anyone got pics of an Mi4 with a Tekin RS? I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the speedo and route the wires.

I threw my receiver on top of the servo to make plenty of room for the speedo and wires. It's so light, I figured it wouldn't affect weight balance and CG enough to worry about.

Is it worth it to rotate the motor so the wire tabs point forward instead of up?

Other random questions:

I've got two servos, and 2 cars. One is a Pro 3, which has a built-in servo saver. The other is the Mi4, and I'm planning to go sans servo saver, partly based on feedback from this thread, and partly because the servo saver rubs on the top deck. One servo is a Tower TS-140, the other is the TS-160. Same dimensions, the 160 is .2oz heavier, and it has double the torque (like 150 vs 80, or something). I think it's also .14/60 as opposed to .13/60. They're both digital, metal gear, 2BB. I'm pretty sure the 160 is actually a Hitec, and the 140 is actually a Futaba, based on the way they look and the splines. Anyway, the question is, which one would be better to run without the servo saver? Or does it not really matter?

Is there anything on the car that I should locktight, or be particularly careful not to over or under-tighten? For example, it sounds like the suspension blocks are sensitive. I'll take out the screws that go into the pins, but should I loosen up the screws into the bulkhead and maybe locktight them?

-Mike
If you can confirm one is a hitec, use that one, futaba's idea of MG is to still have one plastic gear, that, yup, strips out..
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:06 PM
  #1429  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
If you can confirm one is a hitec, use that one, futaba's idea of MG is to still have one plastic gear, that, yup, strips out..
Thanks. The case on the 160 looks exactly like a Hitec, and it uses Hitec splines.

-Mike
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:46 PM
  #1430  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Anyone got pics of an Mi4 with a Tekin RS? I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the speedo and route the wires.

I threw my receiver on top of the servo to make plenty of room for the speedo and wires. It's so light, I figured it wouldn't affect weight balance and CG enough to worry about.

Is it worth it to rotate the motor so the wire tabs point forward instead of up?

Other random questions:

I've got two servos, and 2 cars. One is a Pro 3, which has a built-in servo saver. The other is the Mi4, and I'm planning to go sans servo saver, partly based on feedback from this thread, and partly because the servo saver rubs on the top deck. One servo is a Tower TS-140, the other is the TS-160. Same dimensions, the 160 is .2oz heavier, and it has double the torque (like 150 vs 80, or something). I think it's also .14/60 as opposed to .13/60. They're both digital, metal gear, 2BB. I'm pretty sure the 160 is actually a Hitec, and the 140 is actually a Futaba, based on the way they look and the splines. Anyway, the question is, which one would be better to run without the servo saver? Or does it not really matter?

Is there anything on the car that I should locktight, or be particularly careful not to over or under-tighten? For example, it sounds like the suspension blocks are sensitive. I'll take out the screws that go into the pins, but should I loosen up the screws into the bulkhead and maybe locktight them?

-Mike

Hi,

Here are some pics of a Tekin RS Pro on my LP.
[IMG][/IMG]

I rotated my motor tabs rearward to allow slightly longer wires to allow some flexibility later if I needed to move the motor in/out/forward/rearward depending on gearing and weight balancing needs.

The LP is really tight on space. I imagine a MI4 is pretty tight too. If you did want to move your receiver down to the chassis you can try some of the things I did. I moved the antenna mount over to the battery holder. I took the m3 nylon locknut off and then installed a long counter sunk screw that would screw into the bottom of the antenna mount. Then I also trimmed the edge off the rear servo mount. This gave me a lot more room to work with.

I'm not using a servo saver and so far have not broke a servo. If you run outdoors you'll probably be fine without one. If you run carpet you may want to look into running one.

Anything going into aluminum you want to use loctite. I'm not sure what kind of plastic was used with the suspension blocks for a MI4, but the ones that came with my LP were extremely brittle. I ordered new ones and they are a lot stronger. Appears that they changed the plastic used, the new ones I received are more of a grey finish. The only thing I noticed that needed care when building my car was the sway bar holders that go on the bulkhead. You have to be careful screwing in the little 1.5mm grub screws or the holders may crack.

Other than that the car is rock solid. Really nice ride
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:05 PM
  #1431  
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
I rotated my motor tabs rearward to allow slightly longer wires to allow some flexibility later if I needed to move the motor in/out/forward/rearward depending on gearing and weight balancing needs.

The LP is really tight on space. I imagine a MI4 is pretty tight too. If you did want to move your receiver down to the chassis you can try some of the things I did. I moved the antenna mount over to the battery holder. I took the m3 nylon locknut off and then installed a long counter sunk screw that would screw into the bottom of the antenna mount. Then I also trimmed the edge off the rear servo mount. This gave me a lot more room to work with.

I'm not using a servo saver and so far have not broke a servo. If you run outdoors you'll probably be fine without one. If you run carpet you may want to look into running one.

Anything going into aluminum you want to use loctite. I'm not sure what kind of plastic was used with the suspension blocks for a MI4, but the ones that came with my LP were extremely brittle. I ordered new ones and they are a lot stronger. Appears that they changed the plastic used, the new ones I received are more of a grey finish. The only thing I noticed that needed care when building my car was the sway bar holders that go on the bulkhead. You have to be careful screwing in the little 1.5mm grub screws or the holders may crack.

Other than that the car is rock solid. Really nice ride
Thanks for the pics and tips. Your wiring looks really clean. One thing I'm not sure of is whether I want to put wire in-line with the post on the speedo, or perpendicular. I did my other car in-line, and it was a pain to solder and doesn't feel very secure. I think going 90* to the post, and being able to push some strands down into the notch would make things a bit more secure, but then the routing might not be so clean.

My car is an Mi4 LP, and space is actually pretty plentiful with the reciever atop the servo. I put the front belt toward the battery, so I can actually get the speedo way in under the top deck if I want to. I could move the reciever down by putting it on its side, but then it'd have to hang off the chassis a bit, and the antenna wire mounting wouldn't be quite as clean. As is, the antenna wire comes out the reciever and right up into the tube.

EDIT: I'm gonna buy a couple 48p pinions tomorrow. Any suggestions what FDR I should target as starting points for 17.5 with the Tekin RS on 203, with about a 80x40' track? I'm thinking probably 6.0 or 6.5 as a starting point. I'm more concerned about making sure the motor is cool and trouble-free than getting the max top speed, at least for my first event.

-Mike
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:23 PM
  #1432  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Thanks for the pics and tips. Your wiring looks really clean. One thing I'm not sure of is whether I want to put wire in-line with the post on the speedo, or perpendicular. I did my other car in-line, and it was a pain to solder and doesn't feel very secure. I think going 90* to the post, and being able to push some strands down into the notch would make things a bit more secure, but then the routing might not be so clean.

My car is an Mi4 LP, and space is actually pretty plentiful with the reciever atop the servo. I put the front belt toward the battery, so I can actually get the speedo way in under the top deck if I want to. I could move the reciever down by putting it on its side, but then it'd have to hang off the chassis a bit, and the antenna wire mounting wouldn't be quite as clean. As is, the antenna wire comes out the reciever and right up into the tube.

EDIT: I'm gonna buy a couple 48p pinions tomorrow. Any suggestions what FDR I should target as starting points for 17.5 with the Tekin RS on 203, with about a 80x40' track? I'm thinking probably 6.0 or 6.5 as a starting point. I'm more concerned about making sure the motor is cool and trouble-free than getting the max top speed, at least for my first event.

-Mike

No problem at all, and thank you

I tried soldering my motor wires at a 45 deg. angle, but it limited how far I could move the motor forward. But if you leave your receiver on top of your servo that shouldn't be a problem for you. If you have a really hot soldering iron It's not that bad soldering the wires inline with the posts. I've had them soldered this way before and haven't had any issues with them coming loose.

As far as a starting FDR for 203, it's also dependent on what motor you plan on using. Using a Duo 17.5 On a track a little larger than you listed my settings were

FDR 5.96
TP 3
Boost 50
Turbo 10
Delay .2
Ramp 2
End RPM 13xxx
Start RPM 3xxx

Since your track is smaller, turn the turbo off completely. These settings will make the car wicked fast, but still remain smooth.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:50 AM
  #1433  
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I use a LP, too, and Tekin Rs Pro, i put the esc with the tabs up and receiver in the same site fron Timmie, but fliped the transmision and the receiver is under top deck, is a Sanwa 411DS.
I run modified, with Nosram 4.0T motor, and with this mount the air pass over servo and receiver and cold the esc tabs.
The servo is a GM 807, normally i run with Low profile KO 4314, but i buy this in Schumacher page and i tested it, is cheap an run very well, but is big, are 15Kg , 0.06s, stronger.
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Mi4-mi4lpl.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:24 AM
  #1434  
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Hello,

I am currently using the Mi4 but I have not been able to get my hands on a LP kit nor a chassis. Was just wondering if anyone out there might have the two chassis, LP and normal version, one atop another. I am interested to know, 1) where they lock down the lipo tray, are the screw holes at the same position or they are different in position.
2) If the position of the screws are the same, then is the difference of the battery position due to the difference in the lipo tray.

Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:50 PM
  #1435  
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
As far as a starting FDR for 203, it's also dependent on what motor you plan on using.
Tekin Redline. I keep getting Tekin motor's, because I can only find the speed control in stock in a combo.

-Mike
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:07 AM
  #1436  
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Questions?? Broke a Pivot Block :-(

Hi All,

I like two others at least in my area have broken the stock plastic pivot blocks on our Mi4lps quite easily I'm wondering if there is a bad batch of blocks? The two crashes I saw didnt look bad enough to break the blocks but did. I broke mine when the car slipped off the table and hit the floor without electrics or battery even installed.

I tried to order some from Amain and Schumacher USA and they are on back order for at least two weeks. Does anyone know anywhere that has them in the US?

Rather then lose a weekend of racing I would get the alum. ones but again they are out of stock as well. So would this work instead?

4 Packages of SHU3130

4 Packages of SHU3129

2 Pakages of SHU3131

Would that be the same as two units of SHU3517?

Thanks,

Chris

PS Kind of puts a bad taste in my mouth that an expensive kit breaks so easily with no part availabilty in US.

Last edited by austindiver; 01-25-2010 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:15 AM
  #1437  
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Originally Posted by austindiver View Post
Hi All,

I like two others at least in my area have broken the stock plastic pivot blocks on our Mi4lps quite easily I'm wondering if there is a bad batch of blocks? The two crashes I saw didnt look bad enough to break the blocks but did. I broke mine when the car slipped off the table and hit the floor without electrics or battery even installed.

I tried to order some from Amain and Schumacher USA and they are on back order for at least two weeks. Does anyone know anywhere that has them in the US?

Rather then lose a weekend of racing I would get the alum. ones but again they are out of stock as well. So would this work instead?

4 Packages of SHU3130

4 Packages of SHU3129

2 Pakages of SHU3131

Would that be the same as two units of SHU3517?

Thanks,

Chris

PS Kind of puts a bad taste in my mouth that an expensive kit breaks so easily with no part availabilty in US.
I think there is a problem with these run of plastic pivots. They took nothing to break on mine. But Brandon's original run plastic ones have not broke any at all. So somebodys messing with the plastic or something.

I need some also!
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:20 PM
  #1438  
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Here too, some drivers broken the pivot blocks, contact with Schumacher and say is there some problem with the first production cars but Schumacher respond fast, the new pivot blocks are more resistent material, and donīt see broken anymore.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by luic View Post
Here too, some drivers broken the pivot blocks, contact with Schumacher and say is there some problem with the first production cars but Schumacher respond fast, the new pivot blocks are more resistent material, and donīt see broken anymore.

Greetings, Luis C.
When are they going to be available?
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:29 PM
  #1440  
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I broke a bucket load of the pivot blocks this weekend racing - all I had, plus extras borrowed from others...Really looking forward to getting the aluminum ones in.

They didn't break until I hit something though

There were three of us racing, and all three of us broke pivot blocks, but I took the prize for breaking the most of them. THe other guys were total newbs when it came to tearing them up. The good news is I can replace a pivot block really fast now...
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