6LikesSchumacher Mi4
01-16-2010, 06:57 PM
#1370
I have a pretty good setup, build as the manual says, the the following changes, rear of car.. 30wt rear shock oil, go to the outter hole on the rear hub, 2mm spacers under balls on rear camber link, rear shocks leaned all the in.
front.. 2mm spacers on hinge pin holders, 1mm spacer under balls on camber link plate, (instead of under the plate) 40wt shock oil. front diff high, rear diff low. mazda speed 6 body.
stop by the pit anytime for help/spare parts
pick up 2 two groove camber plates, 2 one groove plates, set of arms front and rear, extra set of medium front c hubs and one set of steering knuckles and one set of narrow front hexs for the mi3, one set of complete cvd's then figure out which spurs you might need. you should be good to go after that, anything else you might need, i might have.
01-16-2010, 07:05 PM
#1371
some say ca-ing the edges can make it tweak, some say no way, I sand my edges with 400 grit, CA (thin or med tire glue) the edges, and resand with 600 or 1000 grit. I also sand the faces of the chassis, (just cause i don't want to freak out when the shiny stuff gets scratched). your equipment will work fine, if dropping in a 21.5 for scale spec (our version of RCGT) your going to need a smaller spur gear then what comes in the kit. you will need a schumacher spur. if using a silvercan the stock spur will be fine.
I have a pretty good setup, build as the manual says, the the following changes, rear of car.. 30wt rear shock oil, go to the outter hole on the rear hub, 2mm spacers under balls on rear camber link, rear shocks leaned all the in.
front.. 2mm spacers on hinge pin holders, 1mm spacer under balls on camber link plate, (instead of under the plate) 40wt shock oil. front diff high, rear diff low. mazda speed 6 body.
stop by the pit anytime for help/spare parts
pick up 2 two groove camber plates, 2 one groove plates, set of arms front and rear, extra set of medium front c hubs and one set of steering knuckles and one set of narrow front hexs for the mi3, one set of complete cvd's then figure out which spurs you might need. you should be good to go after that, anything else you might need, i might have.
I have a pretty good setup, build as the manual says, the the following changes, rear of car.. 30wt rear shock oil, go to the outter hole on the rear hub, 2mm spacers under balls on rear camber link, rear shocks leaned all the in.
front.. 2mm spacers on hinge pin holders, 1mm spacer under balls on camber link plate, (instead of under the plate) 40wt shock oil. front diff high, rear diff low. mazda speed 6 body.
stop by the pit anytime for help/spare parts
pick up 2 two groove camber plates, 2 one groove plates, set of arms front and rear, extra set of medium front c hubs and one set of steering knuckles and one set of narrow front hexs for the mi3, one set of complete cvd's then figure out which spurs you might need. you should be good to go after that, anything else you might need, i might have.
What are the premises of this class you speak of? How popular is it, what are you guys running, how are people taking to it, ETC ETC.. Looking for a good budget class for my summer parking lot series. Lot of interest in running a basic class for people that have older tub cars (xxx-s tc3's) that don't wanna move up rite now. Most of us don't wanna run RCGT bodies, because we want people to wanna move up classes and not stick to one.
-Mike
01-16-2010, 09:22 PM
#1372
01-16-2010, 11:01 PM
#1373
some say ca-ing the edges can make it tweak, some say no way, I sand my edges with 400 grit, CA (thin or med tire glue) the edges, and resand with 600 or 1000 grit. I also sand the faces of the chassis, (just cause i don't want to freak out when the shiny stuff gets scratched). your equipment will work fine, if dropping in a 21.5 for scale spec (our version of RCGT) your going to need a smaller spur gear then what comes in the kit. you will need a schumacher spur. if using a silvercan the stock spur will be fine.
I have a pretty good setup, build as the manual says, the the following changes, rear of car.. 30wt rear shock oil, go to the outter hole on the rear hub, 2mm spacers under balls on rear camber link, rear shocks leaned all the in.
front.. 2mm spacers on hinge pin holders, 1mm spacer under balls on camber link plate, (instead of under the plate) 40wt shock oil. front diff high, rear diff low. mazda speed 6 body.
stop by the pit anytime for help/spare parts
pick up 2 two groove camber plates, 2 one groove plates, set of arms front and rear, extra set of medium front c hubs and one set of steering knuckles and one set of narrow front hexs for the mi3, one set of complete cvd's then figure out which spurs you might need. you should be good to go after that, anything else you might need, i might have.
I have a pretty good setup, build as the manual says, the the following changes, rear of car.. 30wt rear shock oil, go to the outter hole on the rear hub, 2mm spacers under balls on rear camber link, rear shocks leaned all the in.
front.. 2mm spacers on hinge pin holders, 1mm spacer under balls on camber link plate, (instead of under the plate) 40wt shock oil. front diff high, rear diff low. mazda speed 6 body.
stop by the pit anytime for help/spare parts
pick up 2 two groove camber plates, 2 one groove plates, set of arms front and rear, extra set of medium front c hubs and one set of steering knuckles and one set of narrow front hexs for the mi3, one set of complete cvd's then figure out which spurs you might need. you should be good to go after that, anything else you might need, i might have.
I'll be running a pre-painted 200mm HPI Impreza body in Scale Spec to replace my NSX body which has more tape than plastic at this point.I haven't looked at the gear charts on the Mi4 yet, but I've been running 4.6 FDR in Scale Spec, and I think even higher can work with the new Tekin software. I don't know what people have been running for stock touring.
If I'm going to be investing in gears, do you think I should go with 64p or 48p? All my pinions are 64p (35, 42, 44, 46, 47, 50), but if the grit comes back, it seems like 48p might be better. I also imagine 48p might be better on asphalt in the summer. On the Mi4, do people usually adjust gearing with the spur or the pinion? Or both?
Owen: Is the parma bumper something that's a specific fit for the Mi4, or a universal part that requires trimming? Also, did you sand + paint pen for appearance, or for durability? Or both? Does the sanding add durability without CA?
-Mike
01-16-2010, 11:23 PM
#1374
Thanks for the tips. I've already ordered the Subaru body, so I'll definitely be going with that to start with. I'm sure I will have destroyed it by the time I stop sucking enough for the body to really make much difference to my overall race performance. I'll be running a pre-painted 200mm HPI Impreza body in Scale Spec to replace my NSX body which has more tape than plastic at this point.
I haven't looked at the gear charts on the Mi4 yet, but I've been running 4.6 FDR in Scale Spec, and I think even higher can work with the new Tekin software. I don't know what people have been running for stock touring.
If I'm going to be investing in gears, do you think I should go with 64p or 48p? All my pinions are 64p (35, 42, 44, 46, 47, 50), but if the grit comes back, it seems like 48p might be better. I also imagine 48p might be better on asphalt in the summer. On the Mi4, do people usually adjust gearing with the spur or the pinion? Or both?
Owen: Is the parma bumper something that's a specific fit for the Mi4, or a universal part that requires trimming? Also, did you sand + paint pen for appearance, or for durability? Or both? Does the sanding add durability without CA?
-Mike
I'll be running a pre-painted 200mm HPI Impreza body in Scale Spec to replace my NSX body which has more tape than plastic at this point.I haven't looked at the gear charts on the Mi4 yet, but I've been running 4.6 FDR in Scale Spec, and I think even higher can work with the new Tekin software. I don't know what people have been running for stock touring.
If I'm going to be investing in gears, do you think I should go with 64p or 48p? All my pinions are 64p (35, 42, 44, 46, 47, 50), but if the grit comes back, it seems like 48p might be better. I also imagine 48p might be better on asphalt in the summer. On the Mi4, do people usually adjust gearing with the spur or the pinion? Or both?
Owen: Is the parma bumper something that's a specific fit for the Mi4, or a universal part that requires trimming? Also, did you sand + paint pen for appearance, or for durability? Or both? Does the sanding add durability without CA?
-Mike
And Parma makes a specific Schumacer bumper.
-Mike
01-17-2010, 11:22 AM
#1375
the parma bumper is thicker then the stock schumacher bumper. my first one i tried to cut down. didn't really like the looks of it, so the second one i used spacers on the top plate to make it work, your welcome to the cut down bumper if you want it and if I can find it.
01-17-2010, 12:22 PM
#1376
Tech Initiate
01-17-2010, 10:08 PM
#1380
