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Old 01-11-2010, 11:44 AM   #1336
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I can't wait till i get that call after you "race" with a car broken in half cause you cant drive
Lmao you sponsor me!

If my car is broke In half, what does yours look like after you run 25.5?
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Old 01-11-2010, 03:30 PM   #1337
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Lmao you sponsor me!

If my car is broke In half, what does yours look like after you run 25.5?
it doesnt matter he just builds another one
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:05 PM   #1338
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Adam, your witisisms are lacking and you are posting them to people who care more about what color the car is than what place it comes in.

yeah, I said it.



Now who has a setup thats battle tested against top tier drivers? Lamberts setup has seen it's share. While it calls for a more sensitive feel on the lift, it is balls fast. Who has the competition to gauge against and where are the ideas?

I'll pose 3 to shred/dismiss or consider:

1.) a bushing in place of the bearing on the steering post to remove a little of the up-down slop

2.) a thicker pin in the cvd: the set screw can warp it so easily

3.) a thicker graphite on the acerman and steering plate: 3mm?


g'on, do your best/worst
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:14 PM   #1339
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Adam, your witisisms are lacking and you are posting them to people who care more about what color the car is than what place it comes in.

yeah, I said it.


We can win, and look good.



And at least we take pride in our car's
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:20 PM   #1340
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Originally Posted by The Bear View Post
Adam, your witisisms are lacking and you are posting them to people who care more about what color the car is than what place it comes in.

yeah, I said it.

Now who has a setup thats battle tested against top tier drivers? Lamberts setup has seen it's share. While it calls for a more sensitive feel on the lift, it is balls fast. Who has the competition to gauge against and where are the ideas?

I'll pose 3 to shred/dismiss or consider:

1.) a bushing in place of the bearing on the steering post to remove a little of the up-down slop

2.) a thicker pin in the cvd: the set screw can warp it so easily

3.) a thicker graphite on the acerman and steering plate: 3mm?


g'on, do your best/worst


http://www.RCRacing.com/Page.cfm?Inf...ceResultsID=23

The names Brandon Clements look it up. The look of my car has no effect on how it gets driven, it is no shelf queen, I dont run with yahoo's.

1- File the post down till its flush with the bearing. Takes the slop out. If you want to get the slop out of the casters, drill and use a grub screw to hold the cvd pin in, gets rid of the e clips, and takes slop out if you do it right

2- Dont crash, you wont bend the pin! Simple fix. If you want to go to something tougher, Run a TIR spool, with tamiya steel CVD's

3- No answer.
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Last edited by BlackedOutREVO; 01-11-2010 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:20 PM   #1341
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Adam, your witisisms are lacking and you are posting them to people who care more about what color the car is than what place it comes in.

:
At least Adam may know how to spell "witticisms"
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:24 AM   #1342
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Hi, I'm an off road guy thinking about venturing into on road. I have a few noob questions.

I will ask these questions as if I am buying a 'race' s1 version. Below is what I know the differences.
Quote:
* Tough S1 composite chassis and top deck with optimized flex.
* Tough S1 composite shock towers.
* Simplified shock design for ease of use.
* Plastic driveshafts & hexes with steel axles.
* RACE spec carbon chrome diff balls & thrust bearing.
* Short Medium flex wishbones for improved impact absorption.
how good are the 'simplified' shocks on the 'race'?

plastic drive shafts? doesnt sound very assuring and sound like they wont be reliable, someone correct me if im wrong.

short arms are not available where I will be ordering my kit. How much are the normal arms longer, and what handling affects?

I would gather the plastic driveshafts wont last very long, and hence would it be better to go all out and buy a 'pro' kit?

What parts break the most?

how much would it cost to upgrade to the 'pro' shocks and driveshafts? So basically a composite 'pro'!

Lastly, I assume the 'race' comes with a ball diff in the front. What parts do I need for a spool? I have heard spools are better, for 17.5 stock racing at least.
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:31 AM   #1343
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Now who has a setup thats battle tested against top tier drivers? Lamberts setup has seen it's share. While it calls for a more sensitive feel on the lift, it is balls fast. Who has the competition to gauge against and where are the ideas?
how'd the regionals go?
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:20 AM   #1344
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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
At least Adam may know how to spell "witticisms"
My witticisms are lacking so badly I can only spell!
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Old 01-12-2010, 03:59 PM   #1345
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Glad you guys took the post well!

Blkdoutrvo - Excellent, looks like you are comfy with you setup!
1.) really? Just file it down? *I'm sitting here with files, so... really?*
2.) well,, I typically run for pace than hot lap and while I can't say I don't sometimes leave an impression on our boards, I'm still finding more wear than I'd like...... could easily just be me though. For those 'rare' times I do though, I'm thinking a kydex bumper plate is my next move. hate or love the idea?
3.) I have chewed through 3 steering plates, is my reason for bringing it up.

Captain Stacker - In my most humble opinion, "run what you brung". plastic or alloy, just get to the track to have a good time and learn. Enjoy the larning curve and take it one step at a time, you could easily go as cheaply as possible and build up as the need calls. Gets you to the track the most with the least effort. Eventually you'll want to upgrade and get 'this' or 'that' but just go to try and get laps in. Good luck!

Owen - nice call, it won't be the last time I flub a funny on spelling. I'm down with a good looking car, but the most frequent question for Shui drivers seem to be the looks. And really, thats fine, but it's an easy mark to make fun of

Sir - I managed to teach and make a qual at the race, put me 3rd behind Haynes and Amato. It was good enough(with a couple tweaks) that I was in second when I managed to break out my bad. Pulled some lap times on par and I thank you for returning her to me unharmed. I'll try again when I have something a little more solid.

Heading to the January Jam this weekend, we'll see......
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Old 01-12-2010, 04:31 PM   #1346
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I don't know if the Mi4 is like the Mi3, but on my Mi3 I used a 5 mm D X .2 mm tamiya him . They come in a package of 15 shims I think. 3 X .1 m, 3 X .2 mm, and 3 X .3 mm. They are also pretty pimp when it comes to shimming any unwanted play out of the axle/CVD components. Credit goes to seabass for that one. I only discovered it after tearing down McGoo's car at his kitchen table after his famous Nats run.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:26 PM   #1347
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What spur gear are you guys running for 17.5 and 13.5? 64 pitch? Thanks guys
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:29 PM   #1348
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What spur gear are you guys running for 17.5 and 13.5? 64 pitch? Thanks guys
I have a 114 in my car for 17.5......
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:33 PM   #1349
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What spur gear are you guys running for 17.5 and 13.5? 64 pitch? Thanks guys
I'm using a 106 right now. But thinking about changing to 114
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:54 PM   #1350
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Bear, I see that you are thinking about using a kydex bumper. Are you breaking parts? Since the Mi3 and the MF arms came out I have rearly seen a broken front end on a Schuie. The only thing that seems to go in a wreck is the bumper itself. Has anyone ever tried to do what they did with the rear shock tower by moving the body mounts to the outside of the bumper? It would add some strength to the bumper and it would help stiffen up the body as well. So far that seems to be my only gripe with the car. It goes together as it should and with a few tweaks it is as slop free as any car out there.
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