Schumacher Mi4
#1216

Looking at the docs online I assume you're talking about the retaining screw for the hinge pin?
#1217

#1218

Cool, ta, prolly less friction that way too, I assume the pins can't escape without the screws.
#1219
#1221
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)

Do you have a blacked out mi4?
Ohh stock rear toe is 3 deg, you dont need that much at all. I usually run 1.5 or 2 deg of toe. Run the swaybars also! Springs sound alright. Run stiffer oil in the front, I run 35/40 or 40/45. And you can also shim the rear hubs forward for a shorter wheel base. All those things will free your car up and give you alot more steering.
Do you use the kit blocks (plastic) even when changing rear toe angles? If so, have you noticed any binding?
And what spacers (type and thickness) are you using to adjust rear toe?
The alu rear hubs are good, they will give you more rotation because they have toe in them, if you get them make sure you change the toe at your arms to make up for the hubs
I havent broken any pivots either and I have had some nasty crashes, including one to snap my rear shock tower (not my fault either
). But I dont run the screws in the pivot blocks either. My buddy had this issue this past weekend and he had the screws in his hinge pins. So we will see if no screws makes a difference
Ohh stock rear toe is 3 deg, you dont need that much at all. I usually run 1.5 or 2 deg of toe. Run the swaybars also! Springs sound alright. Run stiffer oil in the front, I run 35/40 or 40/45. And you can also shim the rear hubs forward for a shorter wheel base. All those things will free your car up and give you alot more steering.
Do you use the kit blocks (plastic) even when changing rear toe angles? If so, have you noticed any binding?
And what spacers (type and thickness) are you using to adjust rear toe?
The alu rear hubs are good, they will give you more rotation because they have toe in them, if you get them make sure you change the toe at your arms to make up for the hubs
I havent broken any pivots either and I have had some nasty crashes, including one to snap my rear shock tower (not my fault either

#1222
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)

Ohh Jeeze, just what BlackedOutEgo needs...
I mean he's pretty cocky off line---
Off Line Chat
True word.

Get that new motor wired and picture's taken kid.

Off Line Chat
Originally Posted by BlackedOutMI4
Dude, look man, everybody love's my car. No matter what you do, yours won't be as cool, so just sell it. Admit you fail and sell it


Get that new motor wired and picture's taken kid.

#1223

HE MAY BE COCKY BUT HES SECOND PLACE IF I SHOW UP.


#1224

Hahaha I have some new stuff for my car when I feel like getting it done up. I have a blitz to mess with now. Haha
yea I run the stock plastic pivots. I have some alu ones though.
They don't bind. And I use schuie grey shims. Either .25, .50, 1mm etc shims. Just throw it on the set up station and mess with it till it's where you want it. And make sure there isn't to many shims so the car is to wide or narrow.
hahahahahaha. I don't recall but hey your slow, I guess u gotta talk smack some way. Because your to lazy to build a brand new fresh anodized lp. And your escuse is u need a table. Lol. Get your crap built! And come get beaten
u lost to Sawyer after all. Hah
Haha dang. At least it's a schuie ahead.. When your stupid radio doesn't run out of juice! Ha. BTW my duo finally took a crap.
yea I run the stock plastic pivots. I have some alu ones though.
They don't bind. And I use schuie grey shims. Either .25, .50, 1mm etc shims. Just throw it on the set up station and mess with it till it's where you want it. And make sure there isn't to many shims so the car is to wide or narrow.

Haha dang. At least it's a schuie ahead.. When your stupid radio doesn't run out of juice! Ha. BTW my duo finally took a crap.
#1225
#1226

Do you have a blacked out mi4?
Ohh stock rear toe is 3 deg, you dont need that much at all. I usually run 1.5 or 2 deg of toe. Run the swaybars also! Springs sound alright. Run stiffer oil in the front, I run 35/40 or 40/45. And you can also shim the rear hubs forward for a shorter wheel base. All those things will free your car up and give you alot more steering.
The alu rear hubs are good, they will give you more rotation because they have toe in them, if you get them make sure you change the toe at your arms to make up for the hubs
I havent broken any pivots either and I have had some nasty crashes, including one to snap my rear shock tower (not my fault either
). But I dont run the screws in the pivot blocks either. My buddy had this issue this past weekend and he had the screws in his hinge pins. So we will see if no screws makes a difference
Ohh stock rear toe is 3 deg, you dont need that much at all. I usually run 1.5 or 2 deg of toe. Run the swaybars also! Springs sound alright. Run stiffer oil in the front, I run 35/40 or 40/45. And you can also shim the rear hubs forward for a shorter wheel base. All those things will free your car up and give you alot more steering.
The alu rear hubs are good, they will give you more rotation because they have toe in them, if you get them make sure you change the toe at your arms to make up for the hubs
I havent broken any pivots either and I have had some nasty crashes, including one to snap my rear shock tower (not my fault either


#1227






Ive ran mod already. Nothing new lol. But no, in the 3 practice days and race day I never broke with a 4.5

When the weather gets better I will break the TC out. For now im going to mess with the SC trucks

#1228
#1230

they match the v3's? 
nah, i tried a new ano guy that my friend knew, and he really did a job on some of this stuff. i had to buy a new set, they were so bad. now, the indoor season is underway, and i'm not taking the car apart for another run at it.

nah, i tried a new ano guy that my friend knew, and he really did a job on some of this stuff. i had to buy a new set, they were so bad. now, the indoor season is underway, and i'm not taking the car apart for another run at it.