6LikesSchumacher Mi4
10-17-2009, 08:28 PM
#856
Originally Posted by Kenny L
Great outing with the Mi4 today here is my setup from the weekend great for 13.5 foam.
I'd post my setup, but this one is way better. I'll have some pics of my latest paint atrosity soon.......
10-18-2009, 10:03 AM
#857
Tech Regular
I'd like to thank all of you who recommended the Mi 3.5 Racer for my budget racer. I haven't switched it to foam yet.
Yesterday I managed to put the car in the A main in rubber tire at the 5th Annual Halloween Howler at RC excitement.
I didn't even plan on racing the brand new car with no track time. I ran a few practice laps before sign up where I had planned in running 1/12 scale. By my second practice run I knew I had to race it and I put the 1/12 away.
Unfortunatly, at the start of the A main, I ran right into the middle of the first turn pile up and stripped my servo horn. I managed to continue for a while, but it wasn't pretty.
The best setup I found was close to stock except for green front springs (18 LB) 2.6 degree rear toe, 50 wt AE front shock oil and Losi #56 rear shock pistons with Losi 30wt oil. I ran Sorex 28 tires most of the day.
(Blue front springs gave the fastest lap of the day, Greens gave much better 10 and 20 lap averages even though it felt like the car pushed slightly)
If any mid level rubber tire guys are looking for a car, this is a great one. It's a lot of car for $300.
The only problems were that it's impossible to set the ride height with the kit shims alone. You need the 2 thin sizes of shims from the Associated shock accessory kit ($5) The shims needed are .050" and .075" thick. The other thing is you must unscrew the shock ball cups 2 turns to get proper droop settings using the stock shock mounting positions.
The Mi3.5 racer weighs exactly 1400g with a Tekin RS, HS 625MG servo, Airtronics DSS receiver, 17.5 motor and TP 5400 sport pack Lipo and is perfectly balanced .
I HIGHLY recommend using the servo saver.
Yesterday I managed to put the car in the A main in rubber tire at the 5th Annual Halloween Howler at RC excitement.
I didn't even plan on racing the brand new car with no track time. I ran a few practice laps before sign up where I had planned in running 1/12 scale. By my second practice run I knew I had to race it and I put the 1/12 away.
Unfortunatly, at the start of the A main, I ran right into the middle of the first turn pile up and stripped my servo horn. I managed to continue for a while, but it wasn't pretty.
The best setup I found was close to stock except for green front springs (18 LB) 2.6 degree rear toe, 50 wt AE front shock oil and Losi #56 rear shock pistons with Losi 30wt oil. I ran Sorex 28 tires most of the day.
(Blue front springs gave the fastest lap of the day, Greens gave much better 10 and 20 lap averages even though it felt like the car pushed slightly)
If any mid level rubber tire guys are looking for a car, this is a great one. It's a lot of car for $300.
The only problems were that it's impossible to set the ride height with the kit shims alone. You need the 2 thin sizes of shims from the Associated shock accessory kit ($5) The shims needed are .050" and .075" thick. The other thing is you must unscrew the shock ball cups 2 turns to get proper droop settings using the stock shock mounting positions.
The Mi3.5 racer weighs exactly 1400g with a Tekin RS, HS 625MG servo, Airtronics DSS receiver, 17.5 motor and TP 5400 sport pack Lipo and is perfectly balanced .
I HIGHLY recommend using the servo saver.
10-19-2009, 05:28 PM
#859
Originally Posted by Kenny L
Another update the prototype camber plates are in the country wont be long before you see them with Schumacher part #
10-19-2009, 06:17 PM
#860
0/-2
1/-1
Before we even got our cars we had these in mind. They go based off the same convention Schumacher uses with the 1/2/3 groove camber link mounts. So 0 is 3mm longer center to center than a 1gr. And so on. Main goal was to be able to run shorter camber links.
We have been running 0 front and -2 rear links with Foam sedan with great success. Haven't gotten rubber cars yet, but the plan is to start with 1 front/-1 rear. We haven't had to make any wholesale changes to our original planned setup. Just fine tuning it in. Hopefully the same goes for rubber when the time comes.
10-19-2009, 06:22 PM
#861
Originally Posted by JoelV
0/-2
1/-1
Before we even got our cars we had these in mind. They go based off the same convention Schumacher uses with the 1/2/3 groove camber link mounts. So 0 is 3mm longer center to center than a 1gr. And so on. Main goal was to be able to run shorter camber links.
We have been running 0 front and -2 rear links with Foam sedan with great success. Haven't gotten rubber cars yet, but the plan is to start with 1 front/-1 rear. We haven't had to make any wholesale changes to our original planned setup. Just fine tuning it in. Hopefully the same goes for rubber when the time comes.
10-19-2009, 06:31 PM
#862
thanks, but just so my slow mind will understand,
standard shouie is 3g 39mm, 2g 42mm, 1g 45mm, so your 0 is 48mm?
standard shouie is 3g 39mm, 2g 42mm, 1g 45mm, so your 0 is 48mm?
10-19-2009, 06:38 PM
#863
Originally Posted by skypilot
thanks, but just so my slow mind will understand,
standard shouie is 3g 39mm, 2g 42mm, 1g 45mm, so your 0 is 48mm?
standard shouie is 3g 39mm, 2g 42mm, 1g 45mm, so your 0 is 48mm?
10-19-2009, 06:42 PM
#864
thanks, looks like our asphalt racing is finally over, so need to make changes for the carpet, guess i better get them all
10-20-2009, 09:32 AM
#865
Got a few questions for the MI4 drivers out there:
1) Are the front driveshafts supplied with the kit steel or aluminum?
2) How well do the blades hold up in the front spool?
3) Does the kit include extra camber link mounts for adjusting the link length, or are those optional parts?
4) I love the flipped layshaft from the standpoint that it takes little to no weight to balance left-right. However, with all the weight of the car further inboard how much is handling affected? There must be a noticeable change since there is less moment of inertia.
1) Are the front driveshafts supplied with the kit steel or aluminum?
2) How well do the blades hold up in the front spool?
3) Does the kit include extra camber link mounts for adjusting the link length, or are those optional parts?
4) I love the flipped layshaft from the standpoint that it takes little to no weight to balance left-right. However, with all the weight of the car further inboard how much is handling affected? There must be a noticeable change since there is less moment of inertia.
10-20-2009, 09:44 AM
#866
Originally Posted by M-Technic
Got a few questions for the MI4 drivers out there:
1) Are the front driveshafts supplied with the kit steel or aluminum?
2) How well do the blades hold up in the front spool?
3) Does the kit include extra camber link mounts for adjusting the link length, or are those optional parts?
4) I love the flipped layshaft from the standpoint that it takes little to no weight to balance left-right. However, with all the weight of the car further inboard how much is handling affected? There must be a noticeable change since there is less moment of inertia.
1) Are the front driveshafts supplied with the kit steel or aluminum?
2) How well do the blades hold up in the front spool?
3) Does the kit include extra camber link mounts for adjusting the link length, or are those optional parts?
4) I love the flipped layshaft from the standpoint that it takes little to no weight to balance left-right. However, with all the weight of the car further inboard how much is handling affected? There must be a noticeable change since there is less moment of inertia.
2) They hold up ok-ish, depends what class you do, in mod they wear quite fast...(with TIR spool you dont need blades, but the standard driveshafts dont work with it, you need the TIR drievshafts or a drievshaft with a 2mm pin. Tamiya 46mm steel ones fit.
3)No, there optional 3groove are kit.
4) The team guys over here, i havent seen flip them, i havent either, honestly i dont think theres a HUGE advantage, but each to there own, if your car is balanced left to right, then its all good.
Steven
10-20-2009, 09:52 AM
#868
Originally Posted by steveonamission
4) The team guys over here, i havent seen flip them, i havent either, honestly i dont think theres a HUGE advantage, but each to there own, if your car is balanced left to right, then its all good.
technic - when the motor goes inboard, the battery has to move out some. i won't say the moment is unchanged, but i doubt it's real detectable unless things were real goofy to start with.
the camber plates are optional. the 3-gr comes with the car, which makes for the the longest link. there are (as of this moment) two optional plates that shorten the link by 1.5mm increments (per side).
10-20-2009, 09:56 AM
#869
Originally Posted by M-Technic
Thanks for the info. I suppose to convert to the Tamiya driveshafts you need to change the axles and universal joints as well.
Do you mean to say that the kit camber plates have 3 holes for each side to adjust the link length?
Do you mean to say that the kit camber plates have 3 holes for each side to adjust the link length?
No, the option links each have one hole , as said above
Standard is 3 groove 39mm
Official options are currently 2g 42mm , 1g 45mm
10-20-2009, 10:02 AM
#870
Originally Posted by JoelV
0/-2
1/-1
Before we even got our cars we had these in mind. They go based off the same convention Schumacher uses with the 1/2/3 groove camber link mounts. So 0 is 3mm longer center to center than a 1gr. And so on. Main goal was to be able to run shorter camber links.
We have been running 0 front and -2 rear links with Foam sedan with great success. Haven't gotten rubber cars yet, but the plan is to start with 1 front/-1 rear. We haven't had to make any wholesale changes to our original planned setup. Just fine tuning it in. Hopefully the same goes for rubber when the time comes.
