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Old 01-15-2013, 05:41 PM   #3751
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Johnprz: I was having the hardest time taming the rear for my Mi4 ever since it came out. Car was great...except the rear would occasionally jump out mid to corner exit. While I didn't read everything you posted on your problem, I quickly saw that you were running the same thing that I was that, once I changed, corrected everything.

DO NOT RUN WHITE SPRINGS!!! Especially in the rear! What happens is the chassis can hit the track causing the rear end to loose traction.

In Europe they don't run on the pristine, high traction tracks we have in the US so a soft setup is needed (I actually still have a setup sheet for the Axis or one of the other vintage cars that described the track conditions as 'wet, leaf covered track'). Once I gave up on trying to soften up the rear (the old cars we ran STIFF springs all the way around... like 65-100lb springs) and just increased the spring rate all around, the car came ALIVE! Run the setup that Gripgoat posted as a starting point and if you still need help, ask again, but I feel VERY confident your problem is the white springs.
totally agree with racer-x, i went from having problems with blu/wht springs to dialed in with red/blu springs... try it,,,it works,,,if it doesnt, at least you can cross that off of the list anf try something else.....
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:05 PM   #3752
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I tried Green / Blue on carpet last night in stock TC, along with a setup from Brett Sisley (a former Schui team driver who's returned to the brand recently). The car was interesting. Very fast, hyper responsive, but I could still throw it around and it would work very progressively.

I tried HPI Gold Front / Pink Rear on my 25.5 / X-Pattern car, and it was a travesty. Really tippy, and really hard to drive. I went back to my normal Pink/Silver for the main, and it was better, but the grip had come up so much it was still a bit tippy. :/

Speaking of Schui springs other than blue/white... It looks like most of their line has been discontinued. Does anyone have a pair or two of greens they'd like to sell?

-Mike
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:55 PM   #3753
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
totally agree with racer-x, i went from having problems with blu/wht springs to dialed in with red/blu springs... try it,,,it works,,,if it doesnt, at least you can cross that off of the list anf try something else.....
Thanks Racer-x and gdcopbdcop. I'll try the different springs. I tore the whole car down and just got the new parts in to complete my rebuild, but of course am away this week for work. I'm basically going back to the settings suggested in the manual, but will try stiffer springs.

Gripgoat - a shame they've started discontinuing parts for the car. Will the big bore shocks work? Those are the shocks they're using on the current version of the car, right?
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:54 PM   #3754
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Thanks Racer-x and gdcopbdcop. I'll try the different springs. I tore the whole car down and just got the new parts in to complete my rebuild, but of course am away this week for work. I'm basically going back to the settings suggested in the manual, but will try stiffer springs.

Gripgoat - a shame they've started discontinuing parts for the car. Will the big bore shocks work? Those are the shocks they're using on the current version of the car, right?
No, the kit shocks are the same one they've had since at least the Mi4. The big bores are just an option, and I'd imagine are pretty specialized for super bumpy conditions.

In the Mi4CXL exploded diagram, for springs they just list the Spec-R tuning spring set. I don't think they've discontinued other stuff. Although some of the older LP and CX stuff like some of the bulkheads and chassis plates are in the mega clearance, but probably just because there are newer, better versions are available for retrofit.

-Mike
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:01 AM   #3755
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They are absolutely fine if you shim them properly - note, properly, not as the instructions tell you!!

The most important thing is that there is no play in the output shafts - to get this, you need at least 2 x 0.1mm thick shims between the output cups and the casings on each side. I often have 3 shims on one side. You usually get 2 off these shims in the pack (the smaller diameter ones) so you will need to get some more.

In all the time we have had the diffs, I have probably broken 2 gears max - running mod etc.
Do you mean 2x0.1mm shim on the output cup but outside of the diff case ? and what about the shimming behind the gear under the pins ?
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:34 PM   #3756
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Do you mean 2x0.1mm shim on the output cup but outside of the diff case ? and what about the shimming behind the gear under the pins ?
There's two sizes of shims that come with the diff. One is the larger diameter shim, one is a smaller diameter shim. The smaller diameter, this one:
http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=161
Is the one you put between the outdrive and the diff case.

Here's my build strategy, which seems to work decently.

1) Only VERY LIGHTLY sand the back of the gears. Too much sanding can lead to a sloppy diff.
2) Place 2x of the smaller shims on the outdrive.
3) Assemble the diff halves to see if 2 shims is good. If it's still loose, add a 3rd shim. If 3 shims makes it too tight (resistance turning the outdrive), you can sand the outside of the diff case very lightly to make room for that third shim.
4) Once you've got the shimming on the outdrives in a happy place, complete the diff assembly with all the gears (still dry).
5) Test to see how the diff action feels. If it feels tight, you can sand the gears a touch more. It's OK for it to be on the tight side, and a touch notchy. It will break in some.
6) Disassemble everything again.
7) Use a generous helping of green slime in the x-ring slot.
8) Apply a generous coat of green slime to the x-ring itself, and place it in the slot.
9) Apply a thin coat of green slime on the back of the large spacer, and place it over the x-ring
10) Apply green slime to the outdrive shaft, especially where the grooves are, and put the outdrive into the diff half, holding your finger on the large spacer so it doesn't totally pop out.
11) Place the diff on your setup board, with the outdrive down, and use your 5.5mm nut driver to push down the spacer around the outdrive, to make sure it's fully seated, then install the pin. If an excessive amount of green slime pooped out anywhere, now's a good time to wipe it off.
12) Repeat for other side
13) Put some green slime on the surfaces where the case halves meet each other.
14) Add oil, and finish assembly.

Run it for a run or two before making judgments about whether you've built it too tight or not. Simply running it in on the bench doesn't seem to do much. It really needs to be on the track.

-Mike
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:34 AM   #3757
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Car breaker - yes. Behind the gear, the larger diameter shim supplied with the diff.

The guide that grippagoat posted looks about right - probably more indepth than I'd usually do!!
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:15 PM   #3758
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Does anybody know where I can buy a couple of the slider rings part #U3815, here in the USA?
I would really appreciate it.

Larry
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #3759
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I have schg884 axles in the frt. of my cxl,one of them came apart last night. These are the true drive shafts,does anyone know where to get rebuild parts for them.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:35 PM   #3760
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The Spec-R version 2 parts should work. Lots of places should have them.

-Mike
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #3761
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Thanks Mike Ill se about finding parts
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:01 PM   #3762
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Nuremberg Toy Fair starts in Wednesday. When checking Schumacher kits, so I think Mission is next to have update. Letīs see.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:13 PM   #3763
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JohnPrz: Any update?
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:38 PM   #3764
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Thanks for asking ... no updates yet. Due to some business travel, I've only been to the track once in the past month (last Saturday) and there were 2 birthday parties there that day so they were running jumps on the onroad carpet track so the kids could run their rental Slashes.

The car is all set though. I returned all settings to the manual settings except:
- red/blue springs instead of blue/white
- front spool
- rear gear diff with 1000 weight diff fluid
- diff set in high position front and back
- zero offset HPI TE37 wheels, red closed foam inserts, and HPI X-Pattern belted tires (I also got 2 of the wheels/tires with orange foams so I can experiment with different foam combinations).

Just about every part has been through the ultrasonic parts cleaner, I rebuilt the shocks and the gear diff, new bearings all around and new front belt.

I still need a new body and have trimmed a 190mm BMW E46 M3 body (HPI part # 7352) ready to be painted tonight.

In disassembling the car I noticed that the right rear suspension arm wouldn't fall of its own weight, and also that when I originally built the rear diff, I apparently forgot to add shims and the rubber rings, so the diff screws were scraping the diff eccentrics. So those could have contributed to my issues.

Unfortunately don't know if I can make it to the track this weekend and if I can't, it will likely be another couple of weeks (a lot of children's birthday parties this month), but I'm ready to go!
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:08 PM   #3765
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any new touring cars from schumacher??
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