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Schumacher Mi4

Old 06-06-2012, 09:11 PM
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Cool thanks appreciate the answer, I thought there might be too may variables but I'd say your idea is most likely what caused it. As I'm new to touring cars I just wanted to make sure I didnt over tighten the belt.

Last edited by Taman; 06-06-2012 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any sugitgestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.

thanks appreciate your help
as far as the belt issue is concerned, it seems the belt was putting a lot of pressure on the left side of the pulley seperating the pulley race from the pulley I can't remember, is the diff in backwards. when free spinning the drive train the belt should center its self on the pulley, don't think its from over tightening
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:51 PM
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I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.

the Spec R internal are quite nice for the CXL...all the carbon stuff came in all of mine.
use a little RTV to fully seal it. They leak without it.
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.

thanks appreciate your help
i once did this
cause=during installation, i over shaved (with exacto knife) the pulley side wall so it snaps on the pulley easier,,,,user error
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.

The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.

My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?

Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.

Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
2 seconds is a lot,,,,check that your tires are glued on the the rims
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.

do not overtighten the specR gear diff screws--it causes the case to separate if you do....use a little gasket sealant,not too much!, where the gasket seals to the plastic case,,use greenslime on the o-rings--.2 shim on the inside, .1 on the outside----always use the carbon gears
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:50 PM
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and be sure to check and double check the centering of the belt, If i remember correctly I had like 4 bearing shims on side and 1 on the other in order to get it to run true
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:16 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it!
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:07 PM
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just incase some are wondering how to mount a fan on our cars. I had the double sided tape for some time but does come off when i hit the wall







and my custom chassis protector... This was after few races with some mishaps along the way LOL

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Old 06-14-2012, 06:18 AM
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just rebuilding the shocks on my cx for the 3rd or so time, quite new to racing and stuff so help required! my shocks always leak, should i use the clear o rings, double blue o rings, any green slime anywhere? racing on smooth carpet with standard springs. tyia
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Luvs-cougars View Post
just rebuilding the shocks on my cx for the 3rd or so time, quite new to racing and stuff so help required! my shocks always leak, should i use the clear o rings, double blue o rings, any green slime anywhere? racing on smooth carpet with standard springs. tyia
To stop leaking use the red one-rings if you have them
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.

Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.


Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.

Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
To stop leaking use the red one-rings if you have them
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.

Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.


Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.

Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
actually its the 2nd time ive rebuilt since new, last time i used 1 blue ring and a spacer, and always had oil on ball cup! so do i use 2 blue orings without the spacer?
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Luvs-cougars View Post
actually its the 2nd time ive rebuilt since new, last time i used 1 blue ring and a spacer, and always had oil on ball cup! so do i use 2 blue orings without the spacer?
i used two o rings-
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)

Last edited by poochy; 06-14-2012 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by poochy View Post
i used two o rings-
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)
Thanks for the help guys, I now believe it's just 2 blue o-rings or the clear o-ring plus spacer. Think the 2 blues give longer use but with more drag (and less leakage) and the clear o-ring plus spacer gives less drag but less time before rebuilds.
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