bdortch

iTrader: (3)

I just want to make sure I will be able to get spares if need be before dropping the money on this unique chassis. Knowing the Xray stuff, steering knuckles at least, fit is somewhat comforting.

I think I am going to get it!!!

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Comes with a diff..
But they sell a gear diff

It actually like the diff

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

Okay, I just bought the Mi4CXL. Any tips anyone might have such as setup tips, build tips, etc?

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

Are you guys running the short arms are the regular? And the roll centers on the arms - are the aluminum arm mounts a necessity or can the roll centers be changed with the plastic pieces. It looks as though the plastic pieces are fixed.

I am racing on asphalt by the way.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Congrats on the Car.
I am running standard kit arms...
you really don't need any hop ups for the car...it's pretty much has everything..
if you must get some extras
set of inner TI hinge pins...these are very nice and cheap for the material. You will bend the standard pins before the plastic breaks.
4 dot camber plate
4 sway bars - not really needed..
a couple bags of shims. this is a must...for changing setup on the car.

the alum arm mount get them only if you really want to change roll center or fine tune.
I have them sitting in my box, yet to use ...the kit mounts seem to be at the optimal position.
you could also use the plastic blocks in front or in the rear to play around with pin heights.
tons of stuff to try.

**Not Necessary but nice to have.**
To make life easier..you can opt to buy some associated TC6 ball ends and pivot balls....just makes changing a bit easier...allowing the use a 2mm wrench.
the other stuff was discussed earlier.

Building Tips
1. Read the instructions when building the diff...the lock-in grub screw is essential. READ! look then Read again.
2. When placing the outdrive ends over the o-rings make to seat it correctly. If seated incorrectly they will come loose. Mine have been in place for 2 months.
3. Place a mother load of grease on the CVDs......they will last forever.
that is pretty much it.
very easy build.

I posted a setup a few pages back..i am using that as a base setup for carpet and outdoors. Neutral setup..easy to drive.
if you want very snappy reaction..download the current ProDriver setups from the Schu website.

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the help. I noticed in a lot of pics, the white belts are being used. Are these necessary? I am running 17.5 non-boosted.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

not necessary....but they do look nice.
the standard are just fine.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Start with Hofer's basic setup. It's been posted here before. Make sure your arms move freely on the hinge pins before you put springs and shocks on. If they're tight, you can sand the quik klips down a smidgeon.

Short arms have been standard since the LP. I don't think they even make long arms for the CXL (they're new because of the swaybar mounting). Roll center at the hinge pin cannot be changed without the aluminum mounts, but they should be fine in their stock location with touring tires.

Not necessary. I'm not sure how much difference they really make.

Regarding some of Hipster's comments.
- Shims: Mugen makes some nice ones you can get from A-Main. They're wider even than the Schui ones, and I think a bit cheaper.
- Hinge Pins: Get at least an extra pair. The Ti ones don't have provisions for the screws that keep things in place... if you hit stuff, you might have problems with the arm mounts moving on you like the TC6 can do.
- Pivot Blocks: The thing I've broken most often on the Schui is the pivot blocks and hinge pins, as well as the screws that hold the blocks to the bulkhead. Get some extra screws (ProTek makes good cheap ones), and I'd suggest at least one extra pack of hinge pins, and an extra set of the hinge pin mounts. The plastic mounts are expensive and only available in a full set, so if you pop one rear one, it's like a whole $15 to fix it, and then you end up with a bunch of extras. If you're breaking them a lot, it can be worthwhile to get the aluminum. But you'll still bend screws and hinge pins with the aluminum ones if you hit things.
- Camber Plates: I think Hofer has standardized on the 4 groove. But you probably won't notice much difference. And again, the Smokem ones are worth checking out.
- Sway bars: You're probably fine with the kit ones, I've never really messed with them much. DO make sure you de-tweak it on your setup board before install, though. Make sure it lays flat.
- Ball ends and pivot balls: The AE rod ends fit the Schui perfectly, less slop than the Schui ones, and they are much cheaper. I'm still running Schui balls everywhere, but I've thought about the TiNi AE ones. If any of the rod ends are too tight, you can pinch 'em a bit with pliers.
- Slider inserts for diff/spool outdrives: I still have the best luck placing the o-ring inside the insert first, then slipping the whole thing over the outdrive. It can help to round the corners of the outdrive, and it usually takes a few tries to get it going without disrupting the o-ring, but it's easy to see if you got it right, and then when you slide it on you'll know it seats properly. You can't really see the o'ring when it's all together because of the diff eccentric.

Also, for a lot of the hop-up parts like camber plates, swaybars, trans links, etc, they're cheaper directly from Schui. Use paypal with them, though, not credit card. I'm still not convinced their system is safe. Also, stormer tends to be cheaper than A-Main by a good margin, so check there first.

-Mike

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

i do believe it's been stated a few times..
you can move rear plastic blocks to front for different height adjustments..and setting to wider stance without shimming. reverse from front blocks to rear.

Hofer can you confirm?
or someone from the Schu team.

gdcopbdcop

olhipster, i tried a slight variation on your setup today,,,it was way dialed,,,car was capable of being in the A Main, but the driver was lacking....lolol

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Good to hear.
What did you change?

My car was crazy dialed today....same setup but added .5 more droop in the rear.

Amazing how little changes affect this car

gdcopbdcop

This car has so much grip! i had to take some away... I started with the carpet top deck, 45 wt oil in the front with red schuie springs,,,40 wt oil in the back with blue springs,,3 notch camber plate mount in the front..the Hofer steering modification, and the Hofer mod on the shocks (1.1 hole drilled into the top of the shock caps), finally, a gear diff in the back w/1000 wt oil... the car has so much corner speed, its incredible..now for a good motor and new batteries and i am all set for the Reedy...

next time out I am going to experimet with red springs in the rear, and maybe 45 wt oil in the rear ....

Kensei

How about the weight of this car?
I hear about way over 1,400gr........

It has to be <1,350gr raceready.

Can it be done as it comes in the kit?

And yes, I know that I have to take the electronics and the battery into consideration.

- LiPo about 300gr
- lightweight body
- motor and esc...? average..

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

search a few pages back...has been talked and reference a few times.

right now my CXL is about 1361gram with everything..including a lightweight body. and very heavy battery...i could easily get it under 1350 with another battery.

Kensei

Thxs.
Read those messages.
They are talking about 1,380gr, 1,393gr, 1,420gr and 1,455gr.
With light batteries!

Almost fell off my chair!

Like the Schumacher a lot but I am in doubt as to buying it.
These are weights from the pre-LiPo era.

My config will be:
- SP 13.5t V3 (Nr. 138135V3)
- SP Cirtix
- CS LiPo 7,200mAh 295gr
- receiver RX-461 10gr
- lightweight body LTC-R
- servo Sanwa SDX-801 50gr

What weight would I be at? I want to know before I spend a truckload of money on Schumacher stuff so I don't get a stroke when weighing the little bugger.............

Naturally the car has to come with a geardiff. No geardiff = no go!
Of course the car has to come with double jointed front axles. No double jointed axles = no go!

Furthermore:
can I make FDR from 3.0 to 5.0?
If so:
which pinions and spurs best to use. I want to use 48dp. So I don't mean the teethcount on both but the brand to use without getting into trouble, and where best to get them.