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Schumacher Mi4

Old 03-06-2012, 10:54 AM
  #3391  
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Originally Posted by MattW View Post
How is it possible to get the car that heavy? Don't get me wrong, I know my car has all the light weight stuff on it, but I really can't believe I have in the region of 140g of "weight saving parts" on my car.

Scoyle - nice quote
Not sure, I have aluminum pivot blocks front and rear , gear diff ext, that is with body on it. The battery weighed 309g , can change it and the weight will drop to 1455 , and another battery will drop it to 1420g on my CX
My brother-inlaw has the same issues. Exept he has a long top- deck and his cx came in at 1500g . With my regular electronics and a 309g battery and body my CXL's came in at 1460g before changing batteries. With my lightest battery my CXL's will be 1393g
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:35 PM
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My cx, short top deck, std body weighs 1360g with short lipo. Don't waste your time with std lipo if u don't want to spend money on lightweight parts and expensive electronics. But the real advantage with short lipo is weight distribution alternatives. Short lipo also demands rethinking setup, importent to remember.
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Drwonder View Post
My cx, short top deck, std body weighs 1360g with short lipo. Don't waste your time with std lipo if u don't want to spend money on lightweight parts and expensive electronics. But the real advantage with short lipo is weight distribution alternatives. Short lipo also demands rethinking setup, importent to remember.
I agree with the weight distribution options with a short lipo, that is why i am wondering what effect a standard lipo which weighs 240g will do to the cars handeling and what setup changes I will need to make to the car
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Gerrie View Post
I agree with the weight distribution options with a short lipo, that is why i am wondering what effect a standard lipo which weighs 240g will do to the cars handeling and what setup changes I will need to make to the car
Importent to get the car balanced left/right, how do you cut weight on the electronic side to compensate? With short lipo u just move esc to battery side.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:10 AM
  #3395  
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Originally Posted by Gerrie View Post
Not sure, I have aluminum pivot blocks front and rear , gear diff ext, that is with body on it. The battery weighed 309g , can change it and the weight will drop to 1455 , and another battery will drop it to 1420g on my CX
My brother-inlaw has the same issues. Exept he has a long top- deck and his cx came in at 1500g . With my regular electronics and a 309g battery and body my CXL's came in at 1460g before changing batteries. With my lightest battery my CXL's will be 1393g
Might be better to list out what brand batteries you are using along with weight...as well what electronics (brand, model, etc)
no one will have a definitive help without all the details. Perhaps a pics will help out also.

Also, are short packs allowed at the race venue you attend? Also note that most TC cars are not designed for short packs, so yes a complete rebalance of the car will be needed.

Regarding your brother-in-laws CX...when running the long top deck....an option may be to cut down the extra metal from the bulkheads...there is a lot of un-needed weight on the CX bulkheads...that is if the original top deck won't be used any more.

As i have listed before this what i am running
Tekin RS Pro
LRP X12 17.5
MM high RPM fan
MyLaps Trnsdr
TI screws on lower deck only
5600 2s lipo 65C (standard size)
Spec R gear diff
Standard weight body LTCr with a ton of paint. (make the car overweight)

Last edited by olhipster1; 03-07-2012 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:45 AM
  #3396  
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Hey everyone.

I have just uploaded the longest blog entry ever :-)

There you will also find the setup sheet used by Chris Grainger and me.

Have fun reading my blog

Cheers.
Martin
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:33 PM
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does anyone here in the states know where i can order the 4-notch camber link plates? i also need a 90 tooth 64 pitch spur gear.

Thanks in advance,

Rich
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:41 PM
  #3398  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
does anyone here in the states know where i can order the 4-notch camber link plates? i also need a 90 tooth 64 pitch spur gear.

Thanks in advance,

Rich
Usually Amainhobbies.com
or
StormerHobbies.com

has most stuff available for the MI4 CX, CXL and LP.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:22 AM
  #3399  
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Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
Hey everyone.

I have just uploaded the longest blog entry ever :-)

There you will also find the setup sheet used by Chris Grainger and me.

Have fun reading my blog

Cheers.
Martin
Nice work as always Martin and well done on your 2nd place !!!! ( your setup will be on my car for this weekend at EWS except i have the 3 grove plates and my rear ball studs are in the outside hole on the hub ... ( 4 grove out of stock )

My Mi4cxl build is now finished and the modifications section is now also online ( Started not finished )

Take a look ( Not you Martin ) lol its at www.car69.me.uk under the big build section in the photos section ..............

Thanks for looking all at www.car69.me.uk
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Usually Amainhobbies.com
or
StormerHobbies.com

has most stuff available for the MI4 CX, CXL and LP.

thanks for the reply....i checked with A Main Hobbies before i posted...they are out of stock.. i will try sheldons tho,,,
again, thanks
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
thanks for the reply....i checked with A Main Hobbies before i posted...they are out of stock.. i will try sheldons tho,,,
again, thanks
There's also these: http://smokem-racing.com/Mi4.html

I have a pair. Cheaper than Schui. I'm a bit fuzzy, I think you have to email them, and then they tell you how much, and you paypal 'em, but it was pretty painless. They even followed up to see if I still wanted to order when I got distracted with work for a week and didn't send 'em the money.

I haven't measured widths compared to the 4-groove ones. And because the inner holes are farther out, you do have to take care of the spacers. The one time I ran the inner holes, it made the car work like crap, and part of that is because I didn't add spacers under the balls (or remove spacers under the plates) to bring the inner camber link height down where it should be.

I've got the 4-groove plates, too. But I always end up just running 3-groove, because Martin's base setup at the time still had a question mark on the 4-grooves, and the car was working.

-Mike
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:45 PM
  #3402  
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Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
Hey everyone.

I have just uploaded the longest blog entry ever :-)

There you will also find the setup sheet used by Chris Grainger and me.

Have fun reading my blog

Cheers.
Martin
Hi Martin,

I noticed that on your setup sheet, you had a drilled shock tops on your shocks. What did you do, and how did you do it? What does it do?

Thank you,

Rich
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:19 PM
  #3403  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
Hi Martin,

I noticed that on your setup sheet, you had a drilled shock tops on your shocks. What did you do, and how did you do it? What does it do?

Thank you,

Rich
I'm not Martin, but I can give you a bit of info.

If you drill a hole in the center of the shock cap, right by the flange where it mounts to the shock tower, it lets the air escape when you compress the shock. This removes most of the rebound from the shock.

It's a bit of a PITA to make the holes. A pin vise, a small bit, and a lot of patience. You want the hole to come out on the inside well clear of where the bladder seats.

To get a low-rebound setting on the shock, I much prefer the caps drilled, as every time I've screwed the cap down with the shaft compressed, it seems to very quickly pull air into the shock. With the cap drilled, you can screw the cap on with the shaft all the way out, and it'll still have almost no rebound.

-Mike
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:17 PM
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Schumacher Shock tops are drilled as standard to let the air out when building , Martin is doing something slightly different which I am sure he will explain .
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:03 PM
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To solidify the weight question...the CXL can make weight easily.

car came in at 1393 with body on car, ready to race and a 5600 pack (not in pic but heavier)

could of drooped it easily to 1380....had the optional battery brace on...and body was at least 8 grams overweight ( I sho-goo'ed the inside wheels heavily, 1/4 tube )

Thanks to CRgraphics (CRgraphicsonline.com) for the new paint scheme.
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