6LikesSchumacher Mi4
10-21-2011, 12:39 PM
#3121
YEEEPPPP....
10-21-2011, 02:52 PM
#3122
Tech Master
I was wondering how the swaybars mounted with the long top deck. Looks like the holder is integrated, pretty slick! Does look like it could be a PITA getting to that lower screw, though. Maybe you can just take out the upper screw and go down through the hole? If not, I might finally have to get a 2mm ball-tip driver.
-Mike
-Mike
10-22-2011, 01:44 PM
#3123
Preliminary report:
I'm in a hurry, as I have to be somewhere. But so far, the long top deck does not exactly fit the Mi4LP. There's a difference in the shape of the bulkhead between the swaybar holder and the diff retaining post. However, it looks like 1.5-2mm of spacers should resolve the issue. I won't know for sure until later this evening when I get to fit it the rest of the way.
-Mike
I'm in a hurry, as I have to be somewhere. But so far, the long top deck does not exactly fit the Mi4LP. There's a difference in the shape of the bulkhead between the swaybar holder and the diff retaining post. However, it looks like 1.5-2mm of spacers should resolve the issue. I won't know for sure until later this evening when I get to fit it the rest of the way.
-Mike
10-23-2011, 01:39 AM
#3130
Long Top Deck on Mi4LP
And one last pic, and some notes.
1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.
2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.
3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.
I didn't get a weight difference yet. I'll weight it before I take it off. I think I will sell it and go back to the stock setup.
-Mike
1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.
2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.
3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.
I didn't get a weight difference yet. I'll weight it before I take it off. I think I will sell it and go back to the stock setup.
-Mike
10-23-2011, 04:55 AM
#3131
2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.
3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.
All in all it requires some work to fit it on other Mi4s in the end. Thanks for letting us know what kind of problems one can encounter.
10-23-2011, 12:07 PM
#3132
Tech Regular
Hi. Ive just an MI4CX 2.5mm Softweave chassis on my mi4. Ive come to fit the servo and have hit a problem. The servo mounts on the CX are offset so the servo wouldnt sit square. I spaced the mounts out until my CX/LP (there the same) ones arrive, so that fixed that but then my next problem was that i cant get the servo far enough away from the centre of the caqr to allow me to fit my servo saver. Is there a servo saver that people with a cx use that fits nicely. My servo is a full size one. None of this would be a problem with a low profile one. Thanks for any help
Also I have been thinking of getting the twin point steering setup. How does this affect the steering??
Also I have seen some pics of cars with an 'O ring' Mod to the rear trans links. Doe sthis just give more flex on the rear end?
Also I have been thinking of getting the twin point steering setup. How does this affect the steering??
Also I have seen some pics of cars with an 'O ring' Mod to the rear trans links. Doe sthis just give more flex on the rear end?
Last edited by scytherat; 10-23-2011 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Forgot something
10-23-2011, 06:49 PM
#3133
read the rctech thread about your motor-not all motors fall into the same fdr range
10-23-2011, 07:53 PM
#3134
And one last pic, and some notes.
1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.
2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.
3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.
I didn't get a weight difference yet. I'll weight it before I take it off. I think I will sell it and go back to the stock setup.
-Mike
1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.
2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.
3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.
I didn't get a weight difference yet. I'll weight it before I take it off. I think I will sell it and go back to the stock setup.
-Mike
The long top deck seems to weigh about 13g more than the standard LP setup. If you dremeled off the unneeded portions of the LP bulkheads, it might actually be lighter than the stock setup. I'm pretty surprised.
-Mike
10-23-2011, 08:50 PM
#3135
13g holy cow, that could end up being the difference between 1st and 7th.