YZFAndy

I don't expect to go from Z finalist to an A but overall i expect less tyre ware, less tire overheating, quicker acceleration, quicker braking, less motor heat, less battery drain, less drive chain wear, less bottoming out, faster direction change and to be able to shift weight around to wear i want it. I know we are talking tiny amounts of everything but you will go quicker and i beliver every little helps.

Going back to the original steering, first few laps it just felt strange, maybe a little oversteery mid corner but after that didn't really notice any difference. It just turned out to be faster for me overall that day at that track. Cant say for sure that it would be the same at all tracks but thats the best back too back example i had based on advice i didn't really believe at first so i'll probably be sticking with the original now.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

I can't debate your beliefs, but your own posts seem to say going lighter you ran the same lap times, it was the setup changes that made you faster.

YZFAndy

I can't even really compare my lap times 100% because my local track changes each week. All i can do is compare myself with the guy i'm normally closes to, which week after week our pace is almost identical. But thats not as easy to say as "my lap time are same".

Handling without the alloy blocks is not as good, which i guess is because the hinge pins sit 0.5mm higher, but i do believe the weight reduction makes up for it. If i could get the wieght the same with the handling of the alloy blocks the car would be quicker still. Thats not my believe its physics. Weight is not the be all and end all of handling but it does, or lack of it makes a car quicker.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

its all realitive to personal experience I guess. Heavy cars have been good to me, so in my little world, all this trying to shave a couple of grams here and there is silly.

I'm in the same boat as you with the track changes with our outdoor program, but for us, its not car, setup, or weight, its who choses the right tire combo for that round.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

How many mm of shim are you running on the steering post and what spacing are your arms shims???

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Bought my Mi4 just before the SpecR promo bit DRC Speedshop is hooking me up anyway. Thank you Mike.

YZFAndy

I'm running 4mm on the steering post but the ball studs i'm using sit a little shorter than standard. I would say its probably 3.5mm compared to standard.
And arm shims I'm not sure what you mean. If you mean steering knuckles for bump steer adjustment I'm not running any shimming on that ( standard being 1mm). In fact its probably -0.5mm compared to what you could do with the standard ballstuds again because of shorter ball stud hight.
If you mean pivot block spacing i've been running 2.5mm front width with 1.5mm arm drop spacing. Same with the plastics, but the best i can measure it the plastic are 0.5mm higher, meaning the hidge pin is 0.5mm higher above the chassis. Rear i was running with the alloys 1.5mm forward/rear and 0.5mm rear/rear both with 2.5mm drop. Again i think this sits the hinge pin 0.5mm lower or closer to the chassis than the plastic blocks. With plastic blocks i run 1mm shimming for the track width on all the blocks at the rear. But i really must measure this (or if someone could tell me!) because i think that gives you the same degree of toe in (3*) but actually makes the track width 0.5mm shorter, running 1.5/0.5 on the back with the alloy blocks.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for the information but I should have been more clear. What wheel base are you running? The arm spacing i meant was for wheel base as that effects the arm angle and ackerman most when comparing spacing for the steering links.

YZFAndy

Front to back 2.5 / 1.5 .... 2/2

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking for an asphalt setup for a HOT track. The current setup I'm running (including a gear diff and rack steering) is MONEY on a cool track but once the track temp goes above 110-120 the rear of the car becomes so loose the car is undrivable. Any changes I make seem to make the car either predictably loose all of the time or fine until the rear breaks loose and then it swaps ends almost instantly. As for the setup, I believe it is a version of Skypilots base setup from however many pages back. Thanks for ANY help...

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Can anyone tell me if its posible to run the mi4cx front spool and drive shafts on the mi4lp? and what parts are needed if it can be fitted.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

yeah.. just buy the spool and the driveshafts.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

And an extra pack of slider inserts.

-Mike

poochy

iTrader: (11)

nice, since the cx is new, you must check every screw after each run....they tend to come loose when new, n may cause some tweaks at first but that will go away when the screws start to settle and not come loose.

poochy

iTrader: (11)

the cx is the fastest sedan ive ever owned-period (and i owned a T3<--fast also)