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Schumacher Mi4

Old 09-08-2011, 11:26 PM
  #2986  
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The alloy centerpulley just released will make your belts last much longer! hugely suggested option part
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:30 AM
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Here is the adapter that I made. I put this spacer in then drill 2 new holes in the spur gear . Install the Schumacher bearing inside the spacer and that's it. I can run almost every single spur out there.





I have 2 spare spec r gear diffs that I no longer need if anyone needs them.

Last edited by Marcos.J; 09-09-2011 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:07 PM
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Hello !

I'm considering the CX for this winter and 2012. First try at touring (mostly run offroad) this year.

I run a SX3 so I'm use to Schum design, still lots of parts and options available (chassis, top plate, big bores, gear diff, twin point steering, etc).

So far what options are needed and/or make the car better ?

Do you think this car is as good as a T3 or Yokomo ?

Best.
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Here is the adapter that I made. I put this spacer in then drill 2 new holes in the spur gear . Install the Schumacher bearing inside the spacer and that's it. I can run almost every single spur out there.





I have 2 spare spec r gear diffs that I no longer need if anyone needs them.
Marcos, I want to try the gear diffs out in my 3.5, see how well it works, will shoot you a pm.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
Hello !

I'm considering the CX for this winter and 2012. First try at touring (mostly run offroad) this year.

I run a SX3 so I'm use to Schum design, still lots of parts and options available (chassis, top plate, big bores, gear diff, twin point steering, etc).

So far what options are needed and/or make the car better ?

Do you think this car is as good as a T3 or Yokomo ?

Best.
In short YES the car is as good as anyout there. As for what options are needed i would get the gear diff for the rear, twin point steering, some HPI or spec r springs and the alloy pivot blocks and you should be right.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:44 PM
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Thanks !

I was considering gear diff of course, even on the front, no ?

Twin steering
Alloy blocks
Gear diff(s)
Alloy central pulley
Ti turnbuckles
Narrow hexes
Lipo strap maybe

Anyone running big bores ?
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:12 AM
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Pity, I can not buy in China!
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
Thanks !

I was considering gear diff of course, even on the front, no ?

Twin steering
Alloy blocks
Gear diff(s)
Alloy central pulley
Ti turnbuckles
Narrow hexes
Lipo strap maybe

Anyone running big bores ?
NO on the lipo strap, and NO on the Ti turnbuckles the strap will keep the chassis from doing its work, (flex) and turnbuckles are just a waste of money, other then having a turnbuckle that had bad threads, I have NEVER had an issue with the stock ones.
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:24 PM
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btw, I'm to lazy to check the results, but did anyone put a shouie in the show at the recent paved nats..?
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:08 PM
  #2995  
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Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
Thanks !

I was considering gear diff of course, even on the front, no ?

Twin steering
Alloy blocks
Gear diff(s)
Alloy central pulley
Ti turnbuckles
Narrow hexes
Lipo strap maybe
Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
NO on the lipo strap, and NO on the Ti turnbuckles the strap will keep the chassis from doing its work, (flex) and turnbuckles are just a waste of money, other then having a turnbuckle that had bad threads, I have NEVER had an issue with the stock ones.
But you very rarely crash. I'd say the turnbuckles are not a must-have, but I did bend a couple when I first started with 17.5. I've never had a problem with Ti ones, though. I run the Lunsford ones, non-metric. They're a bit cheaper than the Schui ones. They're super tight on the ballend threads, so you have to work 'em in. Or, the TC6 rod ends fit them really nicely on them, and also fit the Schui balls nicely.

I'd hold off on the alloy blocks until you see how often you break the plastic ones. Since I got a bit better at staying off the boards, the plastic ones have been fine for me. The alloy ones are really expensive, and add 15g to the car. That might not be an issue with the CX, but I can't afford the weight with the LP. Definitely get one set of plastic blocks, and at least one pair of hinge pins, though. And some extra screws for mounting the pivot blocks to the bulkheads.

Rear gear diff is really nice. I suck at building ball diffs. The gear diff seems to stay quite consistent, and different weight oils are pretty noticeable. I like my front gear diff, but honestly haven't compared it to the spool back-to-back.

For stock, you probably don't need the center pulley.

I was a big twin-steering enthusiast, but I've been running the stock steering lately, and been doing fine with it. The twin point crowds the front end more (from a wrenching perspective) and adds something like 7-8g to the car, which again I can't afford with the LP.

I took out my VTX10R (67g!) and put back in my Tekin RS (27g!), and got a gens ace 40c/5000 w/ bullets (285g), and now my car is 1379 w/o body clips, with a LW Speed 6 and used Sweep EXP40 premounts. BLS551 and Spektrum 3250 recvr. I'm looking forward to putting it on the track. Let's hope it stays shiny side up!

-Mike
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:36 PM
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you really really need to get over the weight thing...
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
you really really need to get over the weight thing...
+1

Im running all these heavy options and the only way to get my car back down to 1380 grams is to spend $70 odd bucks on titanium screws and run a flimsy light weight body. Id rather run overweight and enjoy the benefits of the Twin point steering and alloy blocks because IMO they far outweigh the extra weight they add.
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Old 09-11-2011, 03:17 AM
  #2998  
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How does the twin point steering effect the car? More aggressive turn in?
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Old 09-11-2011, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
In short YES the car is as good as anyout there. As for what options are needed i would get the gear diff for the rear, twin point steering, some HPI or spec r springs and the alloy pivot blocks and you should be right.
Hi Benzaah,
what is the main advantage of the alloy pivot blocks?
cheers, Lee
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:22 AM
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Thanks for the tips.

On the SX3, I run plastic blocks but broke the front rather easily and the rear blocks were useful on the SX2 to tune finely.
Hence my will to put them on the MI, I have to say I like the bling thing !
I've got Ti turnbuckles already too.

The car look awesome, hope it run well too, will see next month.

Thanks for the No lipo strap thingy, thought it would be easier but never thought about it binding the chassis flex.

As far as weight is concerned, I didn't think it was that important given the power available now. In offroad you add weight to settle the car and even on flat indoor it helps the car stability.
Maybe it's different on touring.
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