IVAN RM

iTrader: (25)

Interested in a good deal check this.....http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...rage-sale.html

Bobert Ross

iTrader: (5)

I know this is the wrong place to post but if you are going to the paved nationals this weekend i will have my 2 Mi4LPs with me as i now have a different car..only cause the track i drive at doesnt stock schumacher parts as i have always loved this car I also have a spec r gear diff NIB..belts, arms, hubs etc..i have a lot of parts..80% of the Mi4LP is used on the Mi4CX..especially the ones that break the most..anyways, it would be great to see a few peeps with a Schumacher come down to Jackson, NJ and put it down

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

Have any of you guys had any experience with the soft-weave lower decks?

More grip? Worth getting??

Cheers

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Yes, Its awesome Jim. I have also converted to a 2.5 top deck now as I found a bit too much flex and now it has a better balance and the car is dialed...

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

Thanks Benzaah..

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

Titanium screw set for the Mi4LP? Is there only LiteModz? Is there a better way to get titanium screws for the car?

Thanks
Michael

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

What does it take to mount Tamiya TRF shocks to an Mi4? Do they work well, in terms of the mounting and overall length and stuff?

I ask, because one of my cars has the coating worn off the shafts, and a set of 4 shafts is about 60% the cost of a set of Tamiya shocks.

-Mike

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Two sponsored drivers came to my track yesterday with their brand new Mi4's. Damn that's one nice piece of kit I foresee one in my future

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (82)

schumacher shock are practically tamiya shocks with different caps so you should be fine. you will need the mounting balls for the tamiya shocks to mount them.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (235)

can someone tell me the distance between the bulkheads? inner distance where the diff sits, thanks

Zooberg

Any one ahave try a dufferent servo position on ther mi4cx?
I meen lik hb, yokomo ?
Can be Little tight beteen the motor and servo, :/

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Bulkheads are 18mm, but the bearing spacing is 15.75mm. That's because of the way the diff eccentrics mount.

-Mike

Jamesalex

Hi, sorry for the stupid question,

I am still running the MI4lp and I still keep chewing the spool cups and drivshafts. Has anyone else been having these issues and I was wondering how these have been sorted, is it a case of Tamiya driveshafts etc or changing the front end to the cx or adapting the spool.

Any advise would be much appreciated

Thanks in advance

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Front gear diff should make things a bit easier on the parts. You can run the gear diff with the LP shafts and blades. You just leave off the black aluminum ring around the outdrive.

I converted an LP to CX spool and driveshafts, but only ran a couple events with the spool before switching to a gear diff. All of my CX driveshafts (front and rear) are still perfect. I think the slider inserts on the CX spool might wear a bit faster than blades, though. If you do decide to order CX parts, get an extra pack or two of spare slider inserts while you're at it, so you don't have to pay shipping from the UK again so soon.

-Mike

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

if you start with good clean out drives and keep a eye on the blades there should not be a problem, if you hit stuff, just take them off and throw them away, there cheap, buy all you can get, change them often.

little tid bit on the cx out drives, you need to keep a eye on them also, and replace them every so often, they will notch and your dog bones will not slide smoothy, in fact, take a wheel off, pop the shock loose, and see how free the arm moves. I believe it has more to do with hitting pipes, then using a spool vs gear diff although with a spool they probably damage easier.