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Schumacher Mi4

Old 07-21-2011, 03:28 PM
  #2881  
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Originally Posted by Graham Kenny
Yeap it can be done, and works well
I guess you had to drill and tap your own holes in the bulkheads for the swaybar mounting blocks?

-Mike
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:48 AM
  #2882  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
I guess you had to drill and tap your own holes in the bulkheads for the swaybar mounting blocks?

-Mike
yeap but its fairly straight forward. u just need a decent bench drill and clamps
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:17 PM
  #2883  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
I guess you had to drill and tap your own holes in the bulkheads for the swaybar mounting blocks?

-Mike
See your steering link from the servo horn. Ok now make two of those (but shorter) for the sway bars.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by skypilot
See your steering link from the servo horn. Ok now make two of those (but shorter) for the sway bars.
I did think of that, but haven't tried it. Even with short shock-end ball cups, I think it would be too long. Maybe I could trim them down.

The TCX has a ball cup with small bore and a set screw that goes onto to swaybar. Then you thread a ball into the shank of a ballcup. I was thinking that might be a good option with a shorty ball cup. It would give infinite adjustment, too. I figured I'd check out Korey's car next weekend.

-Mike
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:26 AM
  #2885  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
I did think of that, but haven't tried it. Even with short shock-end ball cups, I think it would be too long. Maybe I could trim them down.

The TCX has a ball cup with small bore and a set screw that goes onto to swaybar. Then you thread a ball into the shank of a ballcup. I was thinking that might be a good option with a shorty ball cup. It would give infinite adjustment, too. I figured I'd check out Korey's car next weekend.

-Mike
I just use shock end caps, and adjust the roll bar height on each side using shims inbetween, easy to do as i dont think the TCX ones work that well as there not tall enough
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:52 PM
  #2886  
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Default Spec R diff

Well after my son running the Spec-R gear diff in his Mi4-CX in mod for a few race meetings I have found that they are shit, the plastic gears can not hold up to the power that a 4.5 turn motor with boost and turbo can put to the ground, 4 drivers that were running the Spec-R diff on the weekend had them fail.

They either have the slot flog out were the pin sits or they just strip the side gear, 2 x 5min runs and thatís it, I can get a ball diff to do that.

Spec-R need to make some steel gears and fix the slop in cases were the out drives go in, on the Mi4 diff anyway, I checked a Tamiya diff and they did not wobble as much.

Schumacher, what have you done, you should have made your own, not got into bed with cheap crap.

Regards
Gary
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Old 07-24-2011, 05:44 PM
  #2887  
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Ran my gear diff around 20 x 5 minute runs with a 4.0 motor with no issues. What i learned with spec r diff is do not sand it and let it break in on its own.

Originally Posted by GSM Storm
Well after my son running the Spec-R gear diff in his Mi4-CX in mod for a few race meetings I have found that they are shit, the plastic gears can not hold up to the power that a 4.5 turn motor with boost and turbo can put to the ground, 4 drivers that were running the Spec-R diff on the weekend had them fail.

They either have the slot flog out were the pin sits or they just strip the side gear, 2 x 5min runs and thatís it, I can get a ball diff to do that.

Spec-R need to make some steel gears and fix the slop in cases were the out drives go in, on the Mi4 diff anyway, I checked a Tamiya diff and they did not wobble as much.

Schumacher, what have you done, you should have made your own, not got into bed with cheap crap.

Regards
Gary
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:36 PM
  #2888  
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Default Just no good

Originally Posted by dex410usa
Ran my gear diff around 20 x 5 minute runs with a 4.0 motor with no issues. What i learned with spec r diff is do not sand it and let it break in on its own.
When you run on a big track, long straight, with turbo and boost it is too much for the gears, we have used a 4.0 turn with no turbo or boost and they did last longer than 2 runs, I have tried every thing you can think off, sanding, not sanding, using extra shims, not using shims, I have set it up using bearing blue and found the small gears are not round and there for the mesh is no good.

4 spec-r diffs died on the same meeting, 1, CX, 1 TCX, 1 Xray and 1 Tamiya.

It's a shame Schumacher did not make there own.

Regards
Gary
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:36 AM
  #2889  
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Almost all the gear diffs you see are from Spec-R, The tamiya gear diff is just a re-packaged Spec-r. Its all about the assembly of the diff when you first put it toegther.



Originally Posted by GSM Storm
Well after my son running the Spec-R gear diff in his Mi4-CX in mod for a few race meetings I have found that they are shit, the plastic gears can not hold up to the power that a 4.5 turn motor with boost and turbo can put to the ground, 4 drivers that were running the Spec-R diff on the weekend had them fail.

They either have the slot flog out were the pin sits or they just strip the side gear, 2 x 5min runs and thatís it, I can get a ball diff to do that.

Spec-R need to make some steel gears and fix the slop in cases were the out drives go in, on the Mi4 diff anyway, I checked a Tamiya diff and they did not wobble as much.

Schumacher, what have you done, you should have made your own, not got into bed with cheap crap.

Regards
Gary
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:54 AM
  #2890  
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Originally Posted by GSM Storm
Well after my son running the Spec-R gear diff in his Mi4-CX in mod for a few race meetings I have found that they are shit, the plastic gears can not hold up to the power that a 4.5 turn motor with boost and turbo can put to the ground, 4 drivers that were running the Spec-R diff on the weekend had them fail.

They either have the slot flog out were the pin sits or they just strip the side gear, 2 x 5min runs and thatís it, I can get a ball diff to do that.

Spec-R need to make some steel gears and fix the slop in cases were the out drives go in, on the Mi4 diff anyway, I checked a Tamiya diff and they did not wobble as much.

Schumacher, what have you done, you should have made your own, not got into bed with cheap crap.

Regards
Gary
Gary-i felt the same until i re-shimmed
i run a 4.5 fullyboosted (12.75 fdr 45 boost/10 turbo)---and it is fine.
mine stripped when i ran the .2 shims on the inside and .1 on the outside.
go to .2 and .1 on the inside-and 70w schumacher shock oil--use associated green slime on the orings



is anybody using another type of rear belt for mod besides the black one?
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:22 AM
  #2891  
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving
What handling effects should I notice by going one stiffer in front springs? and what would I expect to notice in tyre temp and wear?
one up-1lb or 3lb up? depends on what 1 up means

off throttle corner entry steering will decrease or be less violent

helps with chicanes if the softer springs are too stuck

what are u trying to achieve?
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:42 PM
  #2892  
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Default bending my cvd's

I applogies if this is review:

Can someone tell me which cvd's (axel) that i can get for the Mi4-lp that will not bend with moderate contact.

I am replacing the front ones on every race day.

thanks in advance
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:49 PM
  #2893  
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Strongest driveshafts for the Mi4 are the steel kit ones in the Mi4 CX kit. To run these properly you also need the CX spool / diff.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:07 PM
  #2894  
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Originally Posted by MattW
Strongest driveshafts for the Mi4 are the steel kit ones in the Mi4 CX kit. To run these properly you also need the CX spool / diff.
thanks Matt
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:12 PM
  #2895  
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Originally Posted by poochy
Gary-i felt the same until i re-shimmed
i run a 4.5 fullyboosted (12.75 fdr 45 boost/10 turbo)---and it is fine.
mine stripped when i ran the .2 shims on the inside and .1 on the outside.
go to .2 and .1 on the inside-and 70w schumacher shock oil--use associated green slime on the orings



is anybody using another type of rear belt for mod besides the black one?
Done all of the above, they just won't hold up on the track we run on, High speed and hard braking, our fdr is 9.0:1 with boost at 32 and turbo at 22 using a SP2.0 speedy, the track has very good grip.

As for the belts we have been running ones from tough racing, getting about 8 to 10 runs on them, we were only getting 2 or 3 on the original black one, I have also made a jig to cut down a HPI gas car belt, they are 5mm wide, looks very strong, it has had 3 runs on it and still looks like new.

Regards
Gary
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