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Schumacher Mi4

Old 07-01-2011, 07:37 AM
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:40 PM
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Any of you guys experiencing tweak problems with the CX?

Main problem, kicking out on right turns, but not left

Thanks in Advance..
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Brokin Racing
Any of you guys experiencing tweak problems with the CX?

Main problem, kicking out on right turns, but not left

Thanks in Advance..
Yeh I have tweaked the top deck a couple of times in a knock :-(

Other than that the car is amazing
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:26 AM
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If anyone is in urgent need of long medium flex arms, I have quite a few of them, especially rears, that I'll likely never use. They're mostly all opened, some look new, some not so much.

-Mike
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Old 07-03-2011, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Brokin Racing
Any of you guys experiencing tweak problems with the CX?

Main problem, kicking out on right turns, but not left

Thanks in Advance..
Had that problem with the LP, turned out that the carbon fibre steering link was hitting the bulk head turning right and tweaking the top deck
Maybe you have the same problem?
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:06 AM
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Anyone having problems stripping teeth off of spur gears? specifically the 70t 48dp
I've been running a 21.5 graupner motor lately and not finished a run through stripping every tooth off the spur. i run another car with the same ratio and have no problems with the RW spur on that one. seems like the schuey one is a bit too hard and brittle

Is there any other make that fits?
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay_P
Anyone having problems stripping teeth off of spur gears? specifically the 70t 48dp
I've been running a 21.5 graupner motor lately and not finished a run through stripping every tooth off the spur. i run another car with the same ratio and have no problems with the RW spur on that one. seems like the schuey one is a bit too hard and brittle

Is there any other make that fits?
Try to get in touch with Schumacher, maybe there is currently bad batch of plastic. I didn't have any probs with spurs apart from stripping some due to my mistake - motor came loose or some dirt getting into teeth. But someone else asked me about same problem as you've got yesterday. Guys in Schumacher are very helpful so try them.
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:49 AM
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Hi, guys
Does anybody have experience with the hb silver Springs. At times I drive with the Schumacher wihte Springs. Alter the last test I have a feeling. This is my car would need softer Springs. I have seen on the setup sheet from Martin Hofer and others. The drive to the silver.Doses this have a reason?
I´m on next coming weekend at ETS finale in Andernach Germany. And just hope that there are also a few driver Schumacher. And I can converse with you a bit.
Greetings Stefan
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:54 AM
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I belive it's just feeling under compression of silver springs that works great on outdoor tracks. I heard that many drivers use them in different brands of car.
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:27 AM
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I'm looking for ideas to make an Mi4 LP work better in VTA 21.5. I can't really say exactly what it is I'm looking for. Maybe more corner entry rotation, and just an overall more aggressive/responsive car. I've only run it for one race day, and I was running two classes, so I didn't have time to experiment much with it.

The setup I ran on the car this past weekend is long medium arms front and rear. Not sure about the shims to the bulkhead. Wheelbase shims are 2mm on both sides of the arm, front and rear. 3* rear toe. Normal hexes. No spacers under camber plates or balls. Inside hole on rear suspension. Lots of droop (don't have a number, just 3mm+ front and rear). Shocks in the middle hole. Gear diffs front and rear with Traxxas 500k front, and 60wt AE shock oil (~700cst?) rear. Blue front springs, white rear springs.

The one negative I noticed is that the car wanted to work the outside of the tires, even with 2.5* camber. I think this is because the tires are so tall, that dropping the chassis back down to about 6mm ride height, nevermind 5mm, the lower arms were angled enough that it was combatting the camber curve. Switching to 1-groove plates did help that. That would also raise the roll centers, in addition to the steeper camber curve, right?

I'm wondering if I should be trying to raise the roll centers from the lower arms. I have aluminum pivot blocks I could put on, but that'll only be worth 1mm front and 2mm rear. Should I even try running the arms 1mm higher in back, or would that just make the car handle really weird? Another idea I had was putting shims between the bulkheads and the chassis. That would raise the arms, but also raise the shock towers, diffs, and motor mount. But it would let me keep the electronics and battery lower. I think I could also angle motor down a bit to keep it from being so high.

Another thing I'm wondering about, but didn't have time to try, is blue rear springs. My line of thought being that the wide rear track reduces the motion ratio, effectively softening the rear suspension.

One fast local guy said he just put TC tires on the car, and set it up the way he would for TC, and then threw the VTA tires. That would result in a pretty high ride height, though. At least 7-8mm. That was with an Xray, but I don't remember which model.

The car is definitely good as-is. I finished 2nd in the main on saturday after qualifying 5th. The top 5 qualifiers were all doing fastest laps within 0.1 seconds of each other. The big difference came down to consistency. I'm honestly not sure if my fastest laps came from wider, faster cornering, or slower, tighter lines.

The car weighs 1509 grams, with about 735 front and 774 rear.

-Mike
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Old 07-05-2011, 07:06 AM
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Change the 500k to 50 of 100k in the front diff. Use the short ARM in the front, reduce rear toe to as little as possible. Reduce the amount of droop. Go back to the 3 groove plate, 2mm spacers under ball front and rear.
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by skypilot
Change the 500k to 50 of 100k in the front diff. Use the short ARM in the front, reduce rear toe to as little as possible. Reduce the amount of droop. Go back to the 3 groove plate, 2mm spacers under ball front and rear.
i agree with skypilot, the added rear toe is causing you to scrub speed, are you using the new outdrives from the CX? if not, try them out, you will gain corner speed.....
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by skypilot
Change the 500k to 50 of 100k in the front diff. Use the short ARM in the front, reduce rear toe to as little as possible. Reduce the amount of droop. Go back to the 3 groove plate, 2mm spacers under ball front and rear.
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
i agree with skypilot, the added rear toe is causing you to scrub speed, are you using the new outdrives from the CX? if not, try them out, you will gain corner speed.....
What ride height would you suggest to go with that?

-Mike
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
What ride height would you suggest to go with that?

-Mike
that is something you will have to experiment with. the lower the better,,,,in VTA, cornerspeed is king,,, i am putting together a VTA car (MI-4LP) as soon as i get it running, i will let you know,,,but it wont be ready for a couple of weeks,,,

rich
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:28 AM
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As low as the track will allow, if chassis is getting beat up a 5mm go to 6 doesn't really matter.
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