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Old 01-24-2011, 12:17 AM
  #2431  
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
I had my first run with the CX on Sunday. The meet was at a track i dont normally run at so i spent some time getting used to the track again but overall im very happy with the new car. Plus I didnt want to push it too hard being a new car and having never driven a Shuie before. One thing I am not happy with the amount of play in the steering. I am going to have to get some very thin shims to get this play out as it seems its all in the shaft and bearing for the Alloy steering housing. Other than that meet was almost flawless with the car. I will have to change my driving style a bit to suit this chassis though as it has so much corner speed .

In hindsight I wish i had have started with the kit set up instead of running an LP set up that was suggested. The kit castor blocks have way too much flex in them for my liking and I will now change to the different front castor blocks especially after reading others thoughts on this cars steering. I found it would steer about half way through the turn and then dig in and feel as though it was going to traction roll and i would have to flick the steering to hold my line.

My only sore point was a massive rock i picked up on the track which popped off the rear diff fence and flipped and chewed out my rear belt I am going to pull the car apart and rebuild everything now for next session.




Hi, In your build you mention "if you are going to do it you need washers with a 1/8th inch hole". Which brand of shims did you find with these size holes? thanks Benzaah
If your talking about the shims for the hingepins, then TOP racing do them in 1/8th holes. and they look bling :-)
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:38 AM
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Graham is right it's the TOP ones that I use;

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=4706

Stephen
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:07 AM
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Benzaah,

Some people just grind down the vertical steering post to get rid of the slop. Also, the twin point steering has less slop, and seems like it might put less twisting force into the chassis.

-Mike
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:30 PM
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hi guys i was thinking about buying a couple mi4's, and was wandering if they are any good on carpet with 32 shore tires? Thanks
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:06 PM
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Hi all

To all you guys that are running Mod, which did balls have you found the best to use, Carbide or Ceramic.

Regards
Gary
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Benzaah,

Some people just grind down the vertical steering post to get rid of the slop. Also, the twin point steering has less slop, and seems like it might put less twisting force into the chassis.

-Mike
I cant afford the twin point steering atm so it Looks like some wet and dry just got added to the shopping list Thanks for the Tip.

I was initially frustrated when building this car but now im really impressed with the way this car builds now Ive serviced it. The diff still feels very stiff to me compared to an Xray diff but Im hoping to catch up with the other guy locally who races this car to compare as on track its fine. Although the car was a little taily in some sections which may have meant it was a touch too loose. Ive rebuilt it with my preferred associated grease this time to compare as the schumacher grease always built a stiff xray diff.


I gotta ask what are you guys doing for a heat sink? Currently i have a fan blowing at the can and the motor mount but this is drawing air over the esc which is not preferable. I was thinking the LPR sink would fit one side and mount the fan above the motor but Thats a lot of weight up high. Any thoughts are apprecaited.

regards Benzaah
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:21 AM
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Benzaah

If you want to try the twin steering set up PM me your address & you can borrow mine for a while

Cheers

Jim
(formerly FK05 Lover)
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
Hi John, what grease do you use in the drive shafts and how often do you re - grease them ? Thanks
Sorry for the delay in replying. I use muchmore or Xenon joint grease. Both do the job, the xenon grease is slightly thicker.
I regrease them prob every other meeting, although for a national or other important race they will get regreased.
When I regrease them, I take them completely to bits and clean every part throughly with brake cleaner/motor spray. And then regrease and reassemble.

You should never run them dry, they will wear fast and at the end of the day, expensive to replace. If you stay on top of maintaining them, they should last along time.
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by GSM Storm View Post
Hi all

To all you guys that are running Mod, which did balls have you found the best to use, Carbide or Ceramic.

Regards
Gary
The ceramic balls are best.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
The diff still feels very stiff to me compared to an Xray diff
My diff felt a lot tighter than the lp diff and i eventually found that the dust o-ring in the end had swollen and was rubbing on the diff screw. Probably got some petroleum based lube on it cause i know this makes the red ones swell.
I also found that the screw that goes through the diff had a little casting bump on it which was making the diff go tight and lose as it was rotated. Replaced the screw and o-ring for a similar black one i had lying around and now its almost free spinning.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:21 AM
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Personally, I'd just leave the o ring out, the diff doesn't seem to really need it.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
I cant afford the twin point steering atm so it Looks like some wet and dry just got added to the shopping list Thanks for the Tip.

I was initially frustrated when building this car but now im really impressed with the way this car builds now Ive serviced it. The diff still feels very stiff to me compared to an Xray diff but Im hoping to catch up with the other guy locally who races this car to compare as on track its fine. Although the car was a little taily in some sections which may have meant it was a touch too loose. Ive rebuilt it with my preferred associated grease this time to compare as the schumacher grease always built a stiff xray diff.


I gotta ask what are you guys doing for a heat sink? Currently i have a fan blowing at the can and the motor mount but this is drawing air over the esc which is not preferable. I was thinking the LPR sink would fit one side and mount the fan above the motor but Thats a lot of weight up high. Any thoughts are apprecaited.

regards Benzaah

Hi Ben, just saw your post, did you figure out the motor heatsink, i just cut down an old single motor heatsink with a hacksaw and smoothed it up with wet&dry, works great.
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:07 PM
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A couple unrelated questions...


1) Are the diff / spool pulleys and fences on the CX the same as the LP? What about the diff balls and rings?

2) Can someone explain the theory behind narrow front wheel hexes again?

-Mike
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
A couple unrelated questions...


1) Are the diff / spool pulleys and fences on the CX the same as the LP? What about the diff balls and rings?

2) Can someone explain the theory behind narrow front wheel hexes again?

-Mike
Not sure of the theory behind narrow hexes, but I use them as a tuning tool.
A narrower front end helps the car turn better, but often if wet I would put either 0.5 or 1mm wheel washers between hex and wheel to take some steering away for a better balance when slippery.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:06 AM
  #2445  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
A couple unrelated questions...


1) Are the diff / spool pulleys and fences on the CX the same as the LP? What about the diff balls and rings?

2) Can someone explain the theory behind narrow front wheel hexes again?

-Mike
1) Yes they are the same.

2) It reduces the offset between the king pin and the hex which gives more steering. It also reduces the overall width of the car, however we always put the width back on by adding spacers against the pivot block.

Therfore the overall width is the same but the offset is less.
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