YZFAndy

When you say alloy version is the same as the new steel design but in alloy? And if so is that with an alloy axle as well?

MattW

Yeah there is 2 versions - steel, and alloy. Steel bone and axle, and alloy bone and axle. The alloy bone is thicker than the steel.

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

Did you notice any improvement between running the alloy over the steel in car performance?

Danny-b23

iTrader: (3)

This is just my opinion, but I don't think you'd notice any real difference in handling characteristics. The only difference between the steel and alloy out shafts is that the alloy ones would weigh less, thus less rotating mass on the car. So the car might spool up a bit faster and be a little more agile under acceleration.

MattW

The design is identical, so there isn't going to be much in it. The truth is I haven't noticed any difference as I haven't tested them back to mack on the same day. Currently I'm running steel fronts and alloy rears - just cos steel is a little more hard wearing for the tight and sometimes "solid" carpet tracks we run on here.

Not had any problems with either though.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Can you elaborate a bit more specifically? Are we talking about moving the hinge pins up and down, or also closer/farther from the center line of the car?

Does "inner toe in" just mean "toe in", I assume on the front? Or are you talking about using bulkhead spacers to sweep the arms?


Things I've done so far that have helped reduce traction roll:

1) Freshen the shocks. Two events ago, I found my shocks were leaking and not doing much damping, especially the left front which is the outside on all the places I was having roll issues.

2) Less sauce. After a short soak before practice, just clean the tires with sauce and wipe it off, leaving only a very thin sheen on the tire, and let it dry. No actual soak, unless the tires fall off during the run, then just a bit more for the air dry. This got rid of about 50% of my issues, and didn't seem to hurt corner speeds.

3) Less camber. Dropping from 2* front/rear to about 1.25* front and 1.5* rear got rid of about another 30-40%.

4) Corner balance the car. I found a spring that was .5mm shorter than the others. I marked it, then set the droop using blocks. Then iterated on ride height and corner balance checking several times to get things nice and even. Cross weight is now 50.3%, left/right is very close to 50%, and I'm 48% front. I think I had some wedge in the car before that was compounding issues. The car drives nice and straight on/off throttle now.

5) Much less droop. I had it before so that I could raise the chassis about 3mm before the tires lift. I reduced this to about 1-1.5mm. The car stays way flatter, and is actually much more responsive, and seemed a bit easier to drive, holding a more consistent line. This was my last change before my last main, and I'm going to revisit camber and sauce again.

6) Don't do stupid things with the steering and brakes during corner entry. I can still roll the car, but I have to try pretty hard.

While the car is more consistent, letting me push it harder, my absolute fastest lap is still about .5 seconds off pace. My Top 20 is another half second. I can definitely work on my driving with this setup, which should be worth a lap, but I'd like to find a bit more raw speed without sacrificing the drivability.

Things I'm gonna try next:
- Check the glue on my tires.
- Go back to 2* camber and see if the roll comes back, or if lap times improve.
- Raise the inner hinge pins.

-Mike

Pink and Blue

For traction rolling I recently solved my issue with a few changes:

First, I moved the front arms as far forward as I could. This was the biggest change.

Next, I softened the rear slightly (went from a 15 to a 14.3 # spring). I also increased my shock oil to 45 wt.

I also stopped compounding full front. I now compound about 3/4 front.

The car was dialed! I qualified 6th at the Indoor Champs this past weekend in spec stock.

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

What is the latest release date estimate for the Mi4CX? I am after the new steel driveshaft CVD assembly and spool.

kiwidave72

I asked the same thing to the dealer here in NZ, and haven't had a reply back yet...I'm guessing just before Xmas or just after the new year.

Anyone know who stocks parts in Aussie, I'm sick of the lack of support here. It's a same really as the mi4lp is a great car.

SchuMi2

iTrader: (34)

Contact Heavy at actionrc.com.au

1 to 2 weeks.

FK05 lover

iTrader: (147)

at last

kiwidave72

Whos going to buy the cx, and who is just going to convert their lp?

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

^^^ Hopefully both. I have an LP, do not have the desire to upgrade, but probably will. My orig Mi4 will be sold and replaced with the CX...well maybe sold. Too many parts that can be scavenged...

Still so very happy with the Mi4 as a whole.

YZFAndy

I was going to convert but It'll cost more than two thirds the cost of a new one so new CX is on its way.
If you don't need all the new upgrades then you don't need to buy all the bits but you can't beat new car feel.

kiwidave72

Sounds like thats the only option... i might have to wait until the new year....think i might get it BLACKED OUT also. Shame Schumacher dont release a limited edition BLACKED OUT version.