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Old 10-07-2010, 12:28 AM   #2236
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How about them Apples?

Anyway, I would love to see a better sway bar solution. It seems that my sway bar ball studs and ballcups are too tight, as well as the sway bar not having the torque it should due to the narrow bulkhead mounting. That and I do know I need more corner speed in general, but most likely that's 90% driver as I am no longer a regular at any club currently.

I really want a pneumatic tire as well....but that's not Schumachers area... ;-)
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:16 AM   #2237
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there isnt alot to talk about when it comes to the new MI4

Seen a prototype last week and it basically has new bulkheads in black , new diff in rear with something similar to spool cups , so no blades , new driveshafts (see some steel ones that look very strong) and new front spool that is very much like the Litemodz one , and no there will NOT be big bore shocks or sway bar changes
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:44 AM   #2238
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there isnt alot to talk about when it comes to the new MI4

Seen a prototype last week and it basically has new bulkheads in black , new diff in rear with something similar to spool cups , so no blades , new driveshafts (see some steel ones that look very strong) and new front spool that is very much like the Litemodz one , and no there will NOT be big bore shocks or sway bar changes
Lets hope the spool and drives are part of it. Its something that was needed to be done back on the mi3 as brushless is just too much for the blades to take. I've gone over to the litemodz design but there is just too much slop in the stuff they make.

As for the big bores,i'm glad schie hasn't gone down that road to mug its customers as i can only see them being pointless unless you run the car off road. And i've always found the sway bars work quite well, or at least as good as anyone elses once they have been bent to the right shape and trued up.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:15 PM   #2239
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The grey blades are just fine for me in both mod and 13.5 open esc.... I have only tossed one in a very hard collision due to another driver tagging me at the rear bumper.... They seem to last quite a long time, but are easy to see how stressed they have been.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:23 PM   #2240
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The grey blades are just fine for me in both mod and 13.5 open esc.... I have only tossed one in a very hard collision due to another driver tagging me at the rear bumper.... They seem to last quite a long time, but are easy to see how stressed they have been.
Lol what wind mod do you run? Your like the only one here that hasnt bent cvds and worn out blades
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:26 PM   #2241
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Lol what wind mod do you run? Your like the only one here that hasnt bent cvds and worn out blades
Ya, I really dunno what you guys are doing? Hitting bricks? Tossing your car onto the freeway? Shooting it with a gun? Oh I wear blades out, but so far only have tossed 1 as I have said. Like many have said before me, use the grey blades, not the black ones. I only used the black blades for 1 day, all were tossed after slight hits.

I will say, if you ever throw a blade, do check the outdrives. If mine showed a hint of wear, it was in the trash, and replaced. A worn outdrive tosses pins frequently.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:36 PM   #2242
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Ya, I really dunno what you guys are doing? Hitting bricks? Tossing your car onto the freeway? Shooting it with a gun? Oh I wear blades out, but so far only have tossed 1 as I have said. Like many have said before me, use the grey blades, not the black ones. I only used the black blades for 1 day, all were tossed after slight hits.
All it took for me was a bump from someone else or brush the wall and the front cvd's would look like a banana, and the blades would always be fried in the front. Running xray, I never replaced the blades, or cvd's, and it has way more run time, and a lot more horsepower strapped in LOL. Its a flaw of the car, anyone that runs or ran schuie here had the same issues
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:40 PM   #2243
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I do not think bladeless outdrives will solve the issue though. The inside will wear or become damaged just as the blade does. What would solve it is an inner setup like the new Kyosho TF6. However you will break something else, most likely strip a gear as that is the next place the shock is going to go.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:13 PM   #2244
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So far, the new spools, diffs and driveshafts look to be holding up well.

I've done maybe 5 or 6 days running with mod, on first set of parts with no issues. I think Chris has done more than that, but i'm not sure.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:27 PM   #2245
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I didn't say no blades. They just need bigger blades, bigger pins, and steel front cvds. Or even composit outdrives, those last longer then blades and don't cost much.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:37 PM   #2246
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^^^ No, madwestmo mentioned it. Sorry for the confusion. Anyway, I am not arguing, we all have different experiences with parts. I will be stoked if they do improve the design. I am too heavily invested into the Mi4 to currently switch brands Even so, I am very satisfied so far, well, until the club starts penalizing those dirty hacks
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:54 PM   #2247
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Quote:
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^^^ No, madwestmo mentioned it. Sorry for the confusion. Anyway, I am not arguing, we all have different experiences with parts. I will be stoked if they do improve the design. I am too heavily invested into the Mi4 to currently switch brands Even so, I am very satisfied so far, well, until the club starts penalizing those dirty hacks
Haha no worries man

But yeah the Mi4 is a great car! It always worked well for me
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Old 10-08-2010, 10:20 AM   #2248
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3 View Post
The grey blades are just fine for me in both mod and 13.5 open esc.... I have only tossed one in a very hard collision due to another driver tagging me at the rear bumper.... They seem to last quite a long time, but are easy to see how stressed they have been.
In high grip conditions such as carpet the blades just don't cope. I don't crash very often, maybe once, three times a meeting and the blades are trashed sometimes in a matter of 4 minutes. In fact i have put a set on in the past, done literally two laps, had a look at them to see whats going on and the pins have already split the blade. No accident damage just the pin has pushed its way through the plastic and then as soon as that happens its time for a set of outdrives also.
With a diff they are fine but me and hundreds of others can't be wrong nor can the team drivers if they have suggested it as an improvement part.
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Old 10-08-2010, 10:44 AM   #2249
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Ah yes, I do not drive carpet. I do forget about that other world.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:08 AM   #2250
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Here is some more info from a reliable shop site:-

Schumacher MI4CX Due early November Price to be confirmed. Much more info below.

After perusing Chris Craingers Mi4CX touring car at Newbury indoor track(UK), below are the facts and some additional changes that Chris actually runs with.

* Black lightened T6 Aluminium Bulkheads front and rear.
* Extra stand on front and rear bulkheads screwed to chassis to compensate for lightened bulkheads.
* New drive shafts with wider pins and no blades. Proven to last an exceptional period of time before replacement.
* New rear diff outputs. Also in black.
* New Chassis to allow newer bulkheads.

Other facts.

* No dual crank steering system.
* No changes to the anti-roll bar mounting positions.
* No big bore shocks.

Changes that Chris solely runs with but not on production Mi4CX

* Counter sunk screws where possible including on hinge pin holders, shock mounts, etc
* No countersunk screws on top deck but rather just button head hex screws to allow for movement(no countersunk washers used, as supplied in kit anywhere!)
* Much thicker shock mounts/towers front and rear(5mm approx).

Only other thing to add is that the car looked very consistent around the twisting indoor track.
[/SIZE]

Black bulk heads. Thats reason enough to buy the kit
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