Schumacher Mi4
#2071

would your rather have the truth or some smoke blown up your a.....
you gave your opinion that the car has a lack of steering and is unpredictable, I gave some reasons why.
I am truly sorry If I hurt your feeling or angered you. I am a very blunt person at times and just let the truth or my opinion of the truth fly.
when you handed me your car it was mess. there is no doubt that you were/are having the issues you stated now and before. I am sure that the changes I gave you made the car better, now tweak those to your driving style, smooth is the key, smooth on the steering, smooth on and off the throttle.
you gave your opinion that the car has a lack of steering and is unpredictable, I gave some reasons why.
I am truly sorry If I hurt your feeling or angered you. I am a very blunt person at times and just let the truth or my opinion of the truth fly.
when you handed me your car it was mess. there is no doubt that you were/are having the issues you stated now and before. I am sure that the changes I gave you made the car better, now tweak those to your driving style, smooth is the key, smooth on the steering, smooth on and off the throttle.
#2072

Moving on....
I did some more wrenching on my car tonight, installing the aluminum blocks in the rear. I've found that in fact all 4 inner hinge pins were bent, one just barely (so I'm still using it, because I ran out of spares).
Has anyone found either the titanium or steel to be stronger than the other? The titanium aren't hollowed / tapped in the end, which seems like it could make them stronger at the point where mine seem to bend. But while titanium is stronger than steel by weight, I thought steel is still stronger when you're talking about the same part dimensions.
1/8" hardened tool steel rod is pretty cheap. Has anyone tried just making their own hinge pins? It seems like you could just cut it to length with a dremel, then chuck it into a drill and spin it with some fine-grit sandpaper or metal polish or something. Maybe I'll give it a shot.
-Mike
I did some more wrenching on my car tonight, installing the aluminum blocks in the rear. I've found that in fact all 4 inner hinge pins were bent, one just barely (so I'm still using it, because I ran out of spares).
Has anyone found either the titanium or steel to be stronger than the other? The titanium aren't hollowed / tapped in the end, which seems like it could make them stronger at the point where mine seem to bend. But while titanium is stronger than steel by weight, I thought steel is still stronger when you're talking about the same part dimensions.
1/8" hardened tool steel rod is pretty cheap. Has anyone tried just making their own hinge pins? It seems like you could just cut it to length with a dremel, then chuck it into a drill and spin it with some fine-grit sandpaper or metal polish or something. Maybe I'll give it a shot.
-Mike
#2073
Tech Master

1/8" hardened tool steel rod is pretty cheap. Has anyone tried just making their own hinge pins? It seems like you could just cut it to length with a dremel, then chuck it into a drill and spin it with some fine-grit sandpaper or metal polish or something. Maybe I'll give it a shot.
-Mike
-Mike
Also, Titanium will flex and come back to it's original shape(within limits) where as steel will hold the bend.
#2074
Tech Master

Steel pins are stronger.
#2075
Tech Master
#2076

I'm interested in to buy mi4lp but I was driving xray for last 2 years so I'm looking for similar reliability for that I need tir spool,steel driveshafts,2.5mm chassis and top deck is that right?
Also how far do you think is the release of the new car?
Thanx in advance
Also how far do you think is the release of the new car?
Thanx in advance
#2078
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)

To 2.5mm chassis and top deck - I haven't used 2.5mm deck so far however I've got it. 2.5mm is on my car but it mostly depends on traction.
To new car release - hard to say.
#2079

thanx
I used to drive mi3 still missing to work on that car ...
It was so easy in every aspect
well not sure what to do

I used to drive mi3 still missing to work on that car ...
It was so easy in every aspect

well not sure what to do

#2080

- Plastic rear hinge pin blocks
- Screws for rear hinge pin blocks
- Inner hinge pins (front and rear)
- Driveshaft Blades
- Front driveshaft bone
- Rear camber link
- Steering link turnbuckle / ball cup
- Hinge pin quick klips
- Screw that go in the end of hinge pin
- Front C-Hubs (never broke, just got sloppy around the outer hinge pin)
Aside from those issues, the car has actually been pretty durable.
Speaking of driveshaft blades, are the black ones stronger than the gray ones, or just more expensive?
-Mike
#2082

do U use Xray C hubs also?
Thanx for the info
Thanx for the info
#2085

+1. They have never broke on me. Sure stretched, holes elongated, look like crap after 10 runs...but NEVER EVER broke on me.
You guys seriously have issues with the driveshafts?
Odd..... Seriously this car has been all but flawless for me. Seriously I have such confidence in the parts quality that I don't stock spares generally. ONLY when I break a part will I buy 2. Wear and tear on the kit has been so very minimal for me as well.
Not here to argue though, EVERYONE has a different experience with a kit.
On a side note, I just LOVE the Schumacher diff. Best diff I have had yet.
Now go forth and crash less!
You guys seriously have issues with the driveshafts?

Not here to argue though, EVERYONE has a different experience with a kit.
On a side note, I just LOVE the Schumacher diff. Best diff I have had yet.
Now go forth and crash less!

Last edited by rezenclowd3; 08-02-2010 at 09:08 PM. Reason: spelling