grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

In the process of working on my car the last couple evenings, I've noticed a couple more details about the dual-link steering.

1) When using the aluminum pivot blocks, the clearance to the steering is VERY tight. There are two do-hickies that that the cross-bar pivots on, similar to the vertical pivot thing in the stock steering. It's got wrench flats on the bottom, and a screw goes into it from the top. Anyway, the bottom of that do-hicky could potentially hit the vertical screw on the aluminum suspension blocks, so make sure you align the wrench flats for maximum clearance. I may actually look into counter-sinking the aluminum blocks to get more clearance.

2) Getting at the swaybar mounts for the front is a kind of a PITA with the dual-link steering. You can get at the screws relatively easily, but to actually get the blocks out, I've found I need to pop the tie rods.

3) It's basically impossible to get the front spool out without disconnecting the cross bar.

-Mike

Sterling Racer

Sorr,y no time to read through it all, if i may ask, what are the bennies to the new steering?

thanks

Sterling Racer

it sure is, thanks !

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

I find that quite interesting, but it does not surprise me. I never really used Schumacher USA, but AMain and Stormer stock parts. One can still purchase through Schumacher UK, shipping times are still pretty darn good to the US. That and I have broken so very little. Last time was just due to me trying to find a quicker line through the barrier ;-) I rarely crash, but that time made up for my lack of purchases for the past 6mo

Lack of general Mi4 drivers in the US does not help though. It seems many want some sort of setup help. Look at posts by the sponsored guys in other threads essentially saying "I am your rc tuning savior" I could care less about setup help as I tune the chassis myself. If I do have a general setup question, I ask a buddy of mine who understands setup better than I do.

I would wholeheartedly recommend the kit to anyone in the US as long as they are willing to figure setup on their own, and are willing to purchase parts online.

Sidenote: any LHS SHOULD have an online ordering component. I can't imagine trying to keep a store afloat in the US without that.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

I do agree, however the tradeoff in handling precision is worth the maintenance headache IMO.

(Should have used multiquote...oh well.)

Sterling Racer

I have noticed the rabble about set-up for the lp and some having issues.

Have to ask, shouldn't the setups for the Mi4 be just about 'on' for the lp?

What springs and tires are you running assuming that you run on asphalt?

thanks

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

I do not know what you mean by: "Have to ask, shouldn't the setups for the Mi4 be just about 'on' for the lp?" because driving styles, track condition, and components used change driver to driver.

I do not find setup sheets from other drivers useful at all unless they are running exactly the same components as I. Even if you have the same weight and bias, weight will still be distributed differently. Moving weight around on a racing car is one of the bigger ways one can tune a chassis. I even go so far as to run the same ratio, but different teeth to move the motor forward or back. Generally I like the motor more forward. I feel even changing between my paint schemes the handling changes, because I use more or less paint per body.

I will say, because there are those that know my adequate or inadequate driving, that I am no longer a consistent driver. I can feel setup changes quite easily and dial the car in, but due to cutting back to running once a month or less, I have just lost quite a bit of my skill. I do not want to make the impression that I am your "rc tuning savior" because I am all but that.

I do run on asphalt. I run Tamiya yellow springs all around on my Mi4 (with all but the Mi4LP chassis.) For tires, it is a mix between the OLD RP30s and 36s as I still have a small batch left, and the SJ-R 36s. If you like, I can fill out a setup sheet and attach it later this week. I do have yet to run the Mi4LP I just bought from Owen Racing, so it has been just the Mi4 with all parts from the LP but the chassis.

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

I run Solaris tires. They seem to be holding up well unless the pavement is very abrasive. I ran the Schumacher whites all around on the Mi3 but I have had success with greens in the front and blues in the rear on the Mi4LP.
The guys in the UK seem to like the HPI pinks and silvers or even blues if the grip is down.
I can't say how the 4 and LP setups compare. I went from the 3.5 to the LP.
I can't really think of any setup issues I have had with the LP. Other than a slight on power push, but that is not always a bad thing either.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

hey Jon, as tempting as it may be, Solaris tires are NOT the way to go for FW, don't get me wrong, they work, but are not the fast tire, they WOULD be an excellent spec tire for a class. Jose and I talked about it, YBD and I talked about it, but he and the boys at TOP just couldn't seem to close to a phone at the same time so it didn't happen. setups for the 4 and the LP are kinda close, except the side the side balance is way different, for this sunday, try swapping the belts to the other side, (turn the diff and spool over and the spur gear, it moves the motor out, but I think it actually works better at FW. but you be the judge, there is enough time to do it between heats for a real try.

as far as the clearance for the dual link steering being close to the alum hinge pin vertical screw, a couple of 1mm spacers are your friend or even a 1/2

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

One of the complaints I've had about the Mi4 since I got it was steering response. Coming from a car with dual-bellcrank steering (HPI Pro 3), I thought the Mi4 was too hyperactive and unpredictable. When I got a new radio, dialing in some expo helped. But the dual-link feels much more linear to me.

It should be fine with the wrench flats aligned, unless something loosens up, but now that you mention it, I might throw some 0.5mm spacers under the whole assembly.

Speaking of loosening up, just about every screw on the dual-link steering loosened itself the first time I ran, so I lock-tighted everything.

-Mike

Mark506

iTrader: (42)

What is the point of the dual-bellcrank? Just different steering response? thanks

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, different response. Supposedly it also uses more of the servo's throw, so it gives more precision.

-Mike

Sterling Racer

Thank for your candor and the info.

I have only two days with the car, after the first I made some instintive changes and the car came to life for me.

At this time, i'm just trying to fill my head with more knowledge about this car. I do not have much tinker time so i try to be as "right" as possible in my set-up adjustments

Last week i found the xray yellow springs were a nice fit for my track and tires, i too am working through old RP's and Sorexs but that supply is limited, and we are approaching our big summer race so i appreciate the tire suggestions

thanks

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

the steering response is just fine, you can't get to a corner, turn full lock, pull full trigger, and then complain about the steering, or pushing, you didn't even have a setup on the car, heck when I looked at it, you were using the droop screws to set ride height

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

That was un-called for.

-Mike