6LikesSchumacher Mi4
06-18-2010, 06:56 AM
#1967
Tech Initiate
excuse the dumbness, but where do you put the 1mm shim between camber link and bulkhead ?
need more rear end grip ?
need more rear end grip ?
06-19-2010, 08:13 AM
#1970
Tech Initiate
Thanks i catch your drift now !
06-20-2010, 11:30 AM
#1971
Tech Initiate
Car was still poor on friday !
Spent saturday rebuilding the diff and doing some adjustments including 1mm washer on bulkhead.
also notices i only had 1.5mm washers on screw blocks up front, increased it to 2.5mm and also put my kwik clip in the front of the wishbone on the rear to give longer wheelbase.
So much more drivable now,
Hopefully i can dial my driving skills now i seem to have abit more rear end grip now.
need abit more straight line speed now, seem to be struggling on mode 6 with the spx with 10.5 x12 compared to the guys running the latest GM speedo's
Spent saturday rebuilding the diff and doing some adjustments including 1mm washer on bulkhead.
also notices i only had 1.5mm washers on screw blocks up front, increased it to 2.5mm and also put my kwik clip in the front of the wishbone on the rear to give longer wheelbase.
So much more drivable now,
Hopefully i can dial my driving skills now i seem to have abit more rear end grip now.
need abit more straight line speed now, seem to be struggling on mode 6 with the spx with 10.5 x12 compared to the guys running the latest GM speedo's
06-24-2010, 12:10 PM
#1972
Arrived 2.5mm Ceramic Diff ball $5/12pcs
06-24-2010, 01:07 PM
#1973
Car was still poor on friday !
Spent saturday rebuilding the diff and doing some adjustments including 1mm washer on bulkhead.
also notices i only had 1.5mm washers on screw blocks up front, increased it to 2.5mm and also put my kwik clip in the front of the wishbone on the rear to give longer wheelbase.
So much more drivable now,
Hopefully i can dial my driving skills now i seem to have abit more rear end grip now.
need abit more straight line speed now, seem to be struggling on mode 6 with the spx with 10.5 x12 compared to the guys running the latest GM speedo's
Spent saturday rebuilding the diff and doing some adjustments including 1mm washer on bulkhead.
also notices i only had 1.5mm washers on screw blocks up front, increased it to 2.5mm and also put my kwik clip in the front of the wishbone on the rear to give longer wheelbase.
So much more drivable now,
Hopefully i can dial my driving skills now i seem to have abit more rear end grip now.
need abit more straight line speed now, seem to be struggling on mode 6 with the spx with 10.5 x12 compared to the guys running the latest GM speedo's
06-28-2010, 01:58 AM
#1974
I noticed the price on the Mi4 LP Pro is down to $399 on A-Main. I wonder what's up with that.
Does anyone know if the Lunsford Punisher ball cups fit the Schumacher balls?
How sensitive does the the Mi4 tend to be to front/rear weight distribution? More specifically, if I have a choice between an 85T spur and 38T pinion, versus a 70T spur and 31T pinion, should I go with the bigger gears to keep the motor more forward?
FYI, if anyone cares, the ProTek RC 2S 5600/50C lipo barely sneaks in under the front bulkhead. The corner of my pack is getting scratched a bit. I think I'm going to file the bulkhead just a wee hair so it's not so sharp.
I noticed today that the front track width is noticeably wider than the rear. Is that why Ritchie and some others like the narrower front hexes, and while that factory driver (too lazy to go find his name a few pages back) is using the longer rear arms? What is the length difference between the normal and short rear arms?
On my Mi4 LP Pro, the chassis has a second set of countersunk holes for mounting the servo. They're farther back, and more inboard. However, the aft hole on the 2nd set is more inboard, instead of more outboard like the normal holes. It looks like I could sneak my servo in that way, and definitely could sneak in a low-profile, but I can't figure out a way to make the kit servo mounts work that way. The one with the slot would need to be mirrored from the way it is. Am I missing something obvious?
I feel like I want a bit more rotation at all stages of cornering, but mostly under neutral/light throttle, and corner exit. But I don't necessarily feel like I want more front end bite. Exiting tight corners, I kind of have to goose the throttle to get the rear end to kick around, rather than just smoothly applying throttle. Also, on infield decreasing-radius corners, I feel like I have to completely let off the gas, maybe even touch the brake, to get the car turned, and that there's a point coming off throttle where the steering gets much more reactive, and hard to predict. I feel like it should be possible to just ease off the throttle and turn the car in smoothly. I kind of feel like less rear toe-in might do what I want. Does that sound reasonable?
-Mike
Does anyone know if the Lunsford Punisher ball cups fit the Schumacher balls?
How sensitive does the the Mi4 tend to be to front/rear weight distribution? More specifically, if I have a choice between an 85T spur and 38T pinion, versus a 70T spur and 31T pinion, should I go with the bigger gears to keep the motor more forward?
FYI, if anyone cares, the ProTek RC 2S 5600/50C lipo barely sneaks in under the front bulkhead. The corner of my pack is getting scratched a bit. I think I'm going to file the bulkhead just a wee hair so it's not so sharp.
I noticed today that the front track width is noticeably wider than the rear. Is that why Ritchie and some others like the narrower front hexes, and while that factory driver (too lazy to go find his name a few pages back) is using the longer rear arms? What is the length difference between the normal and short rear arms?
On my Mi4 LP Pro, the chassis has a second set of countersunk holes for mounting the servo. They're farther back, and more inboard. However, the aft hole on the 2nd set is more inboard, instead of more outboard like the normal holes. It looks like I could sneak my servo in that way, and definitely could sneak in a low-profile, but I can't figure out a way to make the kit servo mounts work that way. The one with the slot would need to be mirrored from the way it is. Am I missing something obvious?
I feel like I want a bit more rotation at all stages of cornering, but mostly under neutral/light throttle, and corner exit. But I don't necessarily feel like I want more front end bite. Exiting tight corners, I kind of have to goose the throttle to get the rear end to kick around, rather than just smoothly applying throttle. Also, on infield decreasing-radius corners, I feel like I have to completely let off the gas, maybe even touch the brake, to get the car turned, and that there's a point coming off throttle where the steering gets much more reactive, and hard to predict. I feel like it should be possible to just ease off the throttle and turn the car in smoothly. I kind of feel like less rear toe-in might do what I want. Does that sound reasonable?
-Mike
06-28-2010, 01:09 PM
#1976
I noticed the price on the Mi4 LP Pro is down to $399 on A-Main. I wonder what's up with that.
Does anyone know if the Lunsford Punisher ball cups fit the Schumacher balls?
How sensitive does the the Mi4 tend to be to front/rear weight distribution? More specifically, if I have a choice between an 85T spur and 38T pinion, versus a 70T spur and 31T pinion, should I go with the bigger gears to keep the motor more forward?
FYI, if anyone cares, the ProTek RC 2S 5600/50C lipo barely sneaks in under the front bulkhead. The corner of my pack is getting scratched a bit. I think I'm going to file the bulkhead just a wee hair so it's not so sharp.
I noticed today that the front track width is noticeably wider than the rear. Is that why Ritchie and some others like the narrower front hexes, and while that factory driver (too lazy to go find his name a few pages back) is using the longer rear arms? What is the length difference between the normal and short rear arms?
On my Mi4 LP Pro, the chassis has a second set of countersunk holes for mounting the servo. They're farther back, and more inboard. However, the aft hole on the 2nd set is more inboard, instead of more outboard like the normal holes. It looks like I could sneak my servo in that way, and definitely could sneak in a low-profile, but I can't figure out a way to make the kit servo mounts work that way. The one with the slot would need to be mirrored from the way it is. Am I missing something obvious?
I feel like I want a bit more rotation at all stages of cornering, but mostly under neutral/light throttle, and corner exit. But I don't necessarily feel like I want more front end bite. Exiting tight corners, I kind of have to goose the throttle to get the rear end to kick around, rather than just smoothly applying throttle. Also, on infield decreasing-radius corners, I feel like I have to completely let off the gas, maybe even touch the brake, to get the car turned, and that there's a point coming off throttle where the steering gets much more reactive, and hard to predict. I feel like it should be possible to just ease off the throttle and turn the car in smoothly. I kind of feel like less rear toe-in might do what I want. Does that sound reasonable?
-Mike
Does anyone know if the Lunsford Punisher ball cups fit the Schumacher balls?
How sensitive does the the Mi4 tend to be to front/rear weight distribution? More specifically, if I have a choice between an 85T spur and 38T pinion, versus a 70T spur and 31T pinion, should I go with the bigger gears to keep the motor more forward?
FYI, if anyone cares, the ProTek RC 2S 5600/50C lipo barely sneaks in under the front bulkhead. The corner of my pack is getting scratched a bit. I think I'm going to file the bulkhead just a wee hair so it's not so sharp.
I noticed today that the front track width is noticeably wider than the rear. Is that why Ritchie and some others like the narrower front hexes, and while that factory driver (too lazy to go find his name a few pages back) is using the longer rear arms? What is the length difference between the normal and short rear arms?
On my Mi4 LP Pro, the chassis has a second set of countersunk holes for mounting the servo. They're farther back, and more inboard. However, the aft hole on the 2nd set is more inboard, instead of more outboard like the normal holes. It looks like I could sneak my servo in that way, and definitely could sneak in a low-profile, but I can't figure out a way to make the kit servo mounts work that way. The one with the slot would need to be mirrored from the way it is. Am I missing something obvious?
I feel like I want a bit more rotation at all stages of cornering, but mostly under neutral/light throttle, and corner exit. But I don't necessarily feel like I want more front end bite. Exiting tight corners, I kind of have to goose the throttle to get the rear end to kick around, rather than just smoothly applying throttle. Also, on infield decreasing-radius corners, I feel like I have to completely let off the gas, maybe even touch the brake, to get the car turned, and that there's a point coming off throttle where the steering gets much more reactive, and hard to predict. I feel like it should be possible to just ease off the throttle and turn the car in smoothly. I kind of feel like less rear toe-in might do what I want. Does that sound reasonable?
-Mike
06-28-2010, 10:03 PM
#1978
Hi Guys, got myself a MI3 (as new) recently & gave it a run in 540 at club level & scored fastest lap at both meets against some very capable guys
Question I have for you, is there any benefit going to MI4LP-Pro? I will be using it for stock soon & we race on a low grip concrete surface at night.
Also, do any parts cross-over from MI3 to MI4?
Thanks in Advance..
Question I have for you, is there any benefit going to MI4LP-Pro? I will be using it for stock soon & we race on a low grip concrete surface at night.
Also, do any parts cross-over from MI3 to MI4?
Thanks in Advance..
06-28-2010, 10:32 PM
#1979
Tires: Sweep EXP 36 http://www.sweepracingusa.com/produc...products_id=29
Sauce: Sweep X3 http://www.sweepracingusa.com/produc...roducts_id=135
-Mike
Sauce: Sweep X3 http://www.sweepracingusa.com/produc...roducts_id=135
-Mike