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Schumacher Mi4

Old 05-11-2010, 12:53 PM
  #1891  
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Originally Posted by CA
Guys have a look at Chris Graingers set up from the TITC.

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Te...et_CG_TITC.pdf

90% of it will be the same as a normal UK set up like you see for the Mendip track in the video above, apart from changes to the shocks. (less rebound and thicker oil etc)

That would be a good starting point for USA tracks which have been sugar watered/treated as the traction was massive at the TITC.
Hey CA,

wondering about the use of 70lb oil front and back..... is that a typo?

also, droop over ride height: I'm not used to measuring from blocks, do you know how many mm of uptravel was used?

many thanks
Casey


p.s. does anyone have a response on the amount of drag and push break being used?
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:48 PM
  #1892  
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I have a couple questions for CA as well. In that set up how did he achieve 3mm of rear toe with just 1mm washers if using the plastic blocks? Secondly if I use the alloy blocks an set them up exactly as the manual says will they essentially be the same as the plastic blocks? I bought a second LPpro from a user on here an the alloy was setup up all wrong. I tried them on my main car and I was way better with just the plastic stock set up then I was using the alloy.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:54 PM
  #1893  
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when using the allow blocks you CAN run them in the same direction, i.e. so they look the same front and rear, but the rear ones will take more shims to get the desired rear toe, like 2mm front and rear is zero toe, by reversing the rear blocks, which is actually the right way they go on, you can run say, 2mm front shims and zero shims rear and have zero toe, don't know if that made since, I think the reason for that is, is to make the screw and block have less chance of bending and you need less shims to boot. also when using the alloy shims don't forget to add the 2mm shim between the blocks to get the right roll center
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:56 AM
  #1894  
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Originally Posted by The Bear
Hey CA,

wondering about the use of 70lb oil front and back..... is that a typo?

also, droop over ride height: I'm not used to measuring from blocks, do you know how many mm of uptravel was used?

many thanks
Casey


p.s. does anyone have a response on the amount of drag and push break being used?
No typo, it's just that track had super traction. Also no rebound, normally on tarmac we would use full rebound.

Sorry, not sure on the uptravel way of measuring, in Europe most guys use droop blocks to measure.

The washers would be correct for the toe in but it's more likely actually 2.5deg.
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Old 05-12-2010, 06:25 AM
  #1895  
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Sounds like I need to find me some tarmac!

Hazus! 70wt....... I don't think we ever used that thick when we ran foam tire on carpet. Thats mind blowing to me.

Also noticed that the ride height is lower than what we run: minimum 5mm with typical at 5.5mm.


Trying to get my mind around your enviornment. Is there a standardized rules and regs everyone sticks to there? ie. ride height, weight, body height, etc.


Again, throwing the question out there again regarding breaking. With a one-way, I have to guess it was strictly 'lift and roll' but the video looks like the cars are using breaking. Ya'll using low/moderate/high drag break? And are you somehow able to use push break with a one way?


thanks again,

Casey
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Old 05-12-2010, 06:58 AM
  #1896  
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This the issue that I have with the MI4LP the car is too sensitive in different track surface everytime I go to different tracks I always have to chase the right setup for that particular track. Usually in other sedan that I have driven before very minimal changes on the car and your right on the spot. But with MI4LP OMG I basically have tear down the whole suspension to get the car to handle right.

Dusttt,

The car you got from me is setup for a low to medium traction track on MOD class. I don't setup any of my car per kit I do my own setup base on how I like the car to handle per my driving style. I race the car last at RIPON RACEWAY and that's the setup I end-up using that night works really well on MOD. But make sure you have the right tires But anyways have fun with the car.
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:56 AM
  #1897  
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JoChim I didnt mean anything bad by my comment. The car that I got from you is still great I have two of them. Your set up had the track width of the entire car like 4mm narrower than stock on the front and back and the roll center was 2mm higher than stock front to back. That wouldnt work for me on the parking lots here. My other car was bought as the assembled version and the only change I had made was to the droop and I added one more mm or rear toe and the car was dialed on a loose parking lot track. So I took the alloy blocks off your car and installed them on my car exactly like the book said and the car was a mess it handled completely different. So I had wondered if the stock setup in the manual for the alloy had the exact measurements of the stock set up plastic ones because it seems way different. I definatley agree that the car is extremely sensitive to set up changes. I had originaly bought the extra car off you (which was a great deal) as a back up or for spare parts. Now though I am thinking that I will actually have one set up for parking lots and one for say WestCoast which is very high traction and high speed so that I dont have to chase the set up (good thing I bought that extra rspro and high speed servo LOL). The other point I was trying to make it that the stock set up that is on the assembled version seems pretty damn sweet right out of the box. Overall I love these cars. They are just pretty technical and I have just got back into on road and am experianceing the learning curve. On another note anyone know of manufacturer that sponsors out of pitty? My wallet is taking a beating
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:28 AM
  #1898  
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This is the setup, i use for 2nd National, the track are very long 1/8 style, with good traction, i run in mod, this setup isnīt the normal i use, this a carpet setup with slighty modifications, very easy to drive, and work in diferents tracks, therefore the car have a litle understeering, and i donīt have time to solve it in finals, and a litle bad luck, i finish 7š in A-main, but 4 schumachers cars in final A, is very good balance.

I use alloy pivot blocks, in front (F-F), with 1.5 mm for 0.5 antidive, i use the same spacers for alu and moulded pivot blocks.
In rear, when i use the alloy in front (F-R), i need to remove in the rear (moulded blocks) the 1 mm shin to achieve 3š of toe-in.

The setup is low resolution, i hope look good.

Greetings, Luis C.
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Mi4-2%AA-vigo-%5B800x600%5D.jpg  
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:25 PM
  #1899  
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How much difference does the high and low diffs make? I have both of mine sitting up high...some people say run the front low and the rear high...what does this do?
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:35 PM
  #1900  
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Hard to explain. Best way I can put it is you feel the weight more on the nose of the car throughout. Try it and feel it out yourself. This is the easiest car to change it, 2 screws and flip it, If you don't like it go right back.
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:40 PM
  #1901  
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Originally Posted by The Bear
Sounds like I need to find me some tarmac!

Hazus! 70wt....... I don't think we ever used that thick when we ran foam tire on carpet. Thats mind blowing to me.

Also noticed that the ride height is lower than what we run: minimum 5mm with typical at 5.5mm.


Trying to get my mind around your enviornment. Is there a standardized rules and regs everyone sticks to there? ie. ride height, weight, body height, etc.


Again, throwing the question out there again regarding breaking. With a one-way, I have to guess it was strictly 'lift and roll' but the video looks like the cars are using breaking. Ya'll using low/moderate/high drag break? And are you somehow able to use push break with a one way?


thanks again,

Casey
70wt, yeah, thats what we ran. You have to remember that in Thailand it was like 35deg air temp. I don't care what make shock oil you run, they all thin when its hot. 70wt was pretty thin over there. More like 50wt.
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Old 05-14-2010, 09:01 AM
  #1902  
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Back in the day (sounding like a real old timer and before the shocks are as good as they are now), we always ran 120 wt front and 100 wt rear...and REAL stiff springs. Most of the suspension was chassis flex.

Low diff gives more grip to that end of the car. I usually low diff in from for more steering...not sure why it works, but it does.
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Old 05-14-2010, 09:06 AM
  #1903  
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Anyone (other than the Cop and me) coming out for the Reedy Race at the end of the month?
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Old 05-14-2010, 09:35 AM
  #1904  
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I'll be there
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:17 AM
  #1905  
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I'll be at the REEDY race but will be running TM E4
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