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Old 04-01-2009, 11:40 AM   #16
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I bet all you have to do is re-flow the solder on the motor and speed control, or completely replace the wires and re-solder everything.

I know you don't feel comfortable soldering, but you really need to learn. First of all, pick up a set of extra hands at radio-shack or harbor freight. Then the next most important thing is getting a good soldering iron. A cheapo $15 radio shack one will not cut it. Get at least a nice 60 watt iron, your hobby shop probably sells some really good ones. Then practice on tinning wires using the extra hands. Then practice soldering wires together, etc... and start soldering everything you can, solder up some deans plugs.

But yea, I bet it is a simple fix if all you are doing is jiggling the motor wire and it works, just sounds to me like you have a bad solder joint or even bad wires. Bad wires can happen!
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:20 PM   #17
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Thanks to everyone who has helped me so far, i'll be sure to try these out when i get home from school, this is pretty much my favourtie thing to do in legal studies ha!

I really hope that it isn't something wrong inside the unit or i'll be pretty angry as you could all understand.

Are there any other suggestions?
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucker101 View Post
Thanks to everyone who has helped me so far, i'll be sure to try these out when i get home from school, this is pretty much my favourtie thing to do in legal studies ha!

I really hope that it isn't something wrong inside the unit or i'll be pretty angry as you could all understand.

Are there any other suggestions?
I have a suggestion I haven't seen mentioned yet... Try tugging on the wires at the esc, and see if one comes off in your hand. Don't pull REAL hard, but give each wire a firm tug.

You mentioned that you had a specialist electronics place do the wire install. Most of these type places (the ones I've seen at least) are set up to work on small components on PC boards, not the kind of work we do in RC. They're using small tipped, low wattage soldering irons to not damage the tiny components they usually work on. That type of iron is great for the kind of work they do at those shops day in and day out, but for our application a high wattage iron with a heavy tip is what's needed. IT can get the joint hot and get it done quickly. THe typical iron in an electronics repair shop will NOT do the job... the guy will either have to hold the iron on the wire and post for so long that the heat spreads along from the post to the ESC and damages something, or he just doesn't get a good solder joint.

If tugging on the wires doesn't pop one loose easily, then you might need to send the unit to Tekin for repair. If it DOES pop one or more wires off easily, you should go to the local r/c track and ask someone with experience soldering on R/C stuff to help you get it done right.

My guess is that the guy who did the job didn't get good solder joints. It should be a simple matter for any racer with some soldering experience to do it properly. If something were damaged inside the ESC, I'd expect it wouldn't work when you pressed on the wires...
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:50 AM   #19
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I tried the suggestions on here and the a and b motor were not soldered very well, i took it back ,he soldered it on and now it works.
Haha, a stupid mistake on my behalf.
I would like to say a huge thankyou to all who have suggested things for me to try, it just goes to show how friendly people on this forum are.

There is one thing, when i accelerate, it's not going flat out, it shutters up top. I'll give the hotwire interface a look at and see whats on the Tekin site.

Thanks again to everyone.
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:15 AM   #20
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Nice to hear a happy ending!

Sometimes you can see the wire hasnt had enough solder flowed through it and the strands are bare of solder.

Now time to haul some speed outta it!
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